I'm completely new to this platform, so i would love to learn something from You guys, i just got my DFI ready for chilled water so i could try some OC'ing but i don't really know where to start. the bios on this board looks like black magic to me.
there are 3 dfi 939 and all dfi masters in here, scotty, mac, and kotori - san that i know of, im sure they'll put something together for you to help you thru,
shrimpy, the bios termonligies in a dfi are different yet they mean the same in other boards , knowing whats what is the key and what not to do, same in every board... i think thats here where hes is confused with it, and what hes asking for, jesus its been months for me since i had my 939 on but its going on , i cant guarantee i can help but ill try and ill go out on a limb here with it saying it, voltages on a dfi board matter, go too hard you'll kill it, they seem to handle cpu voltage quite well, its the secondary voltages they give up on if you push it too far from what i found, the other boys know better than i do, if they havent done a dfi board in from bad secondary voltages theyre very lucky...thats my take on it !!!
Post by Macsbeach98 on Dec 17, 2016 7:23:36 GMT -5
Ok the only thing you want to know about is the Genie Bios the rest is just fairly standard Award Bios. The first thing in the Genie bios are your ram settings and dividers you will notice that they have more dividers than most boards like 10/9 i.e. 200mhz clock = 180mhz (360DDR) memlock and it rises proportionly so 300mhz clock = 270mhz memclock at 10/9. Timings you set according to what your ram can handle.
The LDT bus is the HT bus 939 is rated for 1000 Mhz (2000mhz DDR) HT at the standard base clock of 200mhz so as you raise the clock set its divider accordingly once you get over 1100mhz you are startng to get on shaky ground and it wont really hurt performance if its down lower than 900mhz in fact you will see some high frequency subs with it a lot lower than 900.
Now the voltages you will see that there are 2 CPU voltage settings a voltage setting and a percentage they work exactly like that be careful with the percentage, raising that can have considerable jumps in voltage. I would probably start at 1.3v voltage setting and raise the percentage voltage up in steps so its just over 1.5v in CPUz then just use the actual voltage setting for fine adjustments. The max voltage of the voltage setting is 1.55v so if you have got just over 1.5v with percentages and the voltage setting at 1.3v then if you raise the voltage setting to 1.55v you will have around 1.8v which will probably kill the CPU anyway. The max I use with them is around 1.72 on water. But beware I was running a Dual core in one at 1.72v and changed over to a FX57 without resetting anything and upon bootup it killed the CPU and blew a Mosfet off the board. Not all 939 CPUs can handle real high voltage.
LDT voltage they will handle the max voltage of 1.5v no worries use according to stability. Chipset voltage use as needed for stability chipset voltage problems usually manifest in blue screen errors such as NTFS sys or no mouse once booted. One thing of note the NF4 Chipset runs hot so less voltage is better. Ram voltage use according to the ram 2.8-2.9v for most ram and 3.6v for BH5 by moving the jumper over.
I am thinking of this off the top of my head and I havent played with one for quite a while. I am sure Scotty will make comments about any of my mistakes
Last Edit: Dec 17, 2016 8:06:45 GMT -5 by Macsbeach98
Thanks Pete, this is a neat sum up. i see some of high subs don't even OC the memory that much. i'll check what i can do with my regular ddr400 sticks from adata. also, is it worth using a bigger cooler for the chipset? i think i could put something else here, but the stock heatsink sits so tight it feels like it was glued on. lol
Post by Macsbeach98 on Dec 17, 2016 8:09:02 GMT -5
You shouldnt have much trouble getting the standard cooler off. I am trying to think now does the graphics card go over the top of the cooler or is it the second card slot.
ok. lowered the divider to 150. LDT to 3. getting 2430mhz at fsb 270. vcore 1.55 the memory booted at 240fsb, with 1/1 divider so this generic stick is pretty good actually
Ok the only thing you want to know about is the Genie Bios the rest is just fairly standard Award Bios. The first thing in the Genie bios are your ram settings and dividers you will notice that they have more dividers than most boards like 10/9 i.e. 200mhz clock = 180mhz (360DDR) memlock and it rises proportionly so 300mhz clock = 270mhz memclock at 10/9. Timings you set according to what your ram can handle.
The LDT bus is the HT bus 939 is rated for 1000 Mhz (2000mhz DDR) HT at the standard base clock of 200mhz so as you raise the clock set its divider accordingly once you get over 1100mhz you are startng to get on shaky ground and it wont really hurt performance if its down lower than 900mhz in fact you will see some high frequency subs with it a lot lower than 900.
Now the voltages you will see that there are 2 CPU voltage settings a voltage setting and a percentage they work exactly like that be careful with the percentage, raising that can have considerable jumps in voltage. I would probably start at 1.3v voltage setting and raise the percentage voltage up in steps so its just over 1.5v in CPUz then just use the actual voltage setting for fine adjustments. The max voltage of the voltage setting is 1.55v so if you have got just over 1.5v with percentages and the voltage setting at 1.3v then if you raise the voltage setting to 1.55v you will have around 1.8v which will probably kill the CPU anyway. The max I use with them is around 1.72 on water. But beware I was running a Dual core in one at 1.72v and changed over to a FX57 without resetting anything and upon bootup it killed the CPU and blew a Mosfet off the board. Not all 939 CPUs can handle real high voltage.
LDT voltage they will handle the max voltage of 1.5v no worries use according to stability. Chipset voltage use as needed for stability chipset voltage problems usually manifest in blue screen errors such as NTFS sys or no mouse once booted. One thing of note the NF4 Chipset runs hot so less voltage is better. Ram voltage use according to the ram 2.8-2.9v for most ram and 3.6v for BH5 by moving the jumper over.
I am thinking of this off the top of my head and I havent played with one for quite a while. I am sure Scotty will make comments about any of my mistakes
There were no mistakes.
Loved by thousands, hated by millions. Warp9-systems, the anti-Christ of competitive benchmarking.
Here's mine. Try my settings except for the ram CL.
If your temp is under 50c, you can give it more juice. The key on 939 is under 50c. 3 gig is always your basic target, no matter what chip. If you get more than that, GREAT. If you get less, eh......not so much.
Last Edit: Dec 17, 2016 11:04:20 GMT -5 by Mr.Scott
Loved by thousands, hated by millions. Warp9-systems, the anti-Christ of competitive benchmarking.
thanks scotty. you use some kind of software to set the fsb? i do that from the bios. i used 3.3.3.8 timings and i have a trouble when going over 300mhz fsb. even with a 133mhz divider, and i ran the HT link at 3x divider
The voltage limits for the board, you'll never hit. It can take a beating and then some. These boards are that good. Chip voltage limits very a little but, 1.7v is a good ceiling. 50c or less for temp is more important than voltage.
Last Edit: Dec 17, 2016 11:41:35 GMT -5 by Mr.Scott
Loved by thousands, hated by millions. Warp9-systems, the anti-Christ of competitive benchmarking.
Utility is in the folder. Flash from DOS on bootable media. Or Winflash if you're at totally stock. After flash, re-boot to bios and select 'load optimized defaults' and re-boot. Then you can start your OC again.
Loved by thousands, hated by millions. Warp9-systems, the anti-Christ of competitive benchmarking.
Post by ShrimpBrime on Dec 17, 2016 21:42:57 GMT -5
Win Flash works ok. I used it on the UT with a bios Scott provided me. But that was maybe 2 years ago now?
I have left my UT plugged in. It seems to like that over being unplugged and in a box. Can go post it right now and start OCing. Last time it sat for a few months in the box, it was a little quirky. So what I'm saying is the more you warm this board up, the better it overclocks and runs stable.
Got tap to Drain liquid cooling on it here. It's at least 60F cooler outside than the last time posted. I bet that water is at least 5-10F cooler maybe in the low 50'sF. Just enough to run 1.7v and hope it all clocks like mad!
Another tip I will give you.... actively cool the bios chip.
i always like to have a fan on the bios chip if i can , usually i have more fans thats prob necessary but if they help cool the motherboard i think the better it is
Post by Macsbeach98 on Dec 18, 2016 3:43:53 GMT -5
WTF When they boot bios settings are loaded into the bottom of ram and once the operating system takes control then the bios chip does nothing at all you can pull the Bios chip out and the thing will keep running until its rebooted. Thats how Hotflashing works you pull the chip while its running and put another one in and flash it. If the bios chip is getting warm its because its close to the southbridge or something else is warming it but that wont stop it from booting, the bios chip itself dont not work hard and only works during boot. The bios chip is only a PROM. (Programmable Read Only Memory)
Last Edit: Dec 18, 2016 5:10:04 GMT -5 by Macsbeach98
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