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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 21, 2021 21:26:09 GMT -5
Im considering tec cooling for my nb since i already have a 12706 tec, how do i focus the tecs cooling ability to 1 tiny nb die? Do i need to make some sort of copper prizm to just put in between the tec and nb? And if i do need to make a prizm should i fill the inside of it with antifreeze (cause ill be cutting copper and just soldering it together)? Cooling wise ill use my 92mm tower since it does cover most of the tecs hot side and 4 heatpipes aswell, and seems to be enough for 45nm dual core with ~1.5v keeping temps around 80c, im gonna assume its good enough for 72w since it seems to keep temps around 55c max when i ran my e5400 3.8ghz 1.25v, will i see any benifit overvolting the tec to 17v and increasing the wattage to ~102w in terms of lowest temp i can reach? Or will it just run hotter if my cooler cant keep up?
for lower end boards im gonna consider upgrading the power delivery, should i just cut a vrm off a gpu and turn that into an epower? Or can i just solder on some better mosfets and capacitors to the board? And if i go the epower route (unlikely) how am i supposed to attatch it to the board?
Ive also seen some vdroop mods on boards, is a vdroop mod basically turning on load line calibration but via the hardware instead of the bios?
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Post by Vinster on Sept 22, 2021 7:33:17 GMT -5
Good questions. For the tec, if your cooling can't keep up then the cold side will run warmer. Shrimpy here has tested the most with Tec's so he would be the best person to respond.
for Vdroop, yes, it's like a HW version of LLC.
as for modding lower end board. there could be some benefit on some boards but it's hard to tell until you try. Lower end boards don't always have the PCB layout or trace locations and spacing for higher delivery so there is a potential to arc out a board. I'd suggest using a mid or high end board and using an epower. Mac here has done that in the past
Vin
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 23, 2021 7:58:04 GMT -5
Good questions. For the tec, if your cooling can't keep up then the cold side will run warmer. Shrimpy here has tested the most with Tec's so he would be the best person to respond.
for Vdroop, yes, it's like a HW version of LLC.
as for modding lower end board. there could be some benefit on some boards but it's hard to tell until you try. Lower end boards don't always have the PCB layout or trace locations and spacing for higher delivery so there is a potential to arc out a board. I'd suggest using a mid or high end board and using an epower. Mac here has done that in the past
Vin
What do you mean by "arc out a board"? So im guessing that higher watt = higher temp diff between hot and cold side, but if the hot side gets too hot then theres no point running it at a higher watt since the cold side will still reach the same or even worse temps then before Guess ill have to test how cold the cold side can get with the cooling solution that im thinking of (using my 92mm tower once i swap it for watercooling or just stick a slug of ice ontop my cpu xD But why do hardware llc instead of just turning on llc in the bios? Cause when i use llc my ocs need more volt compared to just letting it naturally vdroop |
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Post by Bones on Sept 24, 2021 10:59:07 GMT -5
Good questions. For the tec, if your cooling can't keep up then the cold side will run warmer. Shrimpy here has tested the most with Tec's so he would be the best person to respond.
for Vdroop, yes, it's like a HW version of LLC.
as for modding lower end board. there could be some benefit on some boards but it's hard to tell until you try. Lower end boards don't always have the PCB layout or trace locations and spacing for higher delivery so there is a potential to arc out a board. I'd suggest using a mid or high end board and using an epower. Mac here has done that in the past
Vin
"? So im guessing that higher watt = higher temp diff between hot and cold side, but if the hot side gets too hot then theres no point running it at a higher watt since the cold side will still reach the same or even worse temps then before Guess ill have to test how cold the cold side can get with the cooling solution that im thinking of (using my 92mm tower once i swap it for watercooling or just stick a slug of ice ontop my cpu xD But why do hardware llc instead of just turning on llc in the bios? Cause when i use llc my ocs need more volt compared to just letting it naturally vdroop Cause an electrical short. Speaking of voltmods I'll have to let Mac handle this one, he understands the subject of voltmods way better than I do. If it's a voltmod he's probrably done it. I can say anytime you have the possibity for any condensation to appear you MUST prep the board for it. That means to insulate it where needed such as around the CPU socket area for example like I have to do when running Ln2 with my stuff. TEC's are capable of causing it too, be sure to read up on this subject and learn it or you'll learn it the expensive way anyway. Stuff such as LET (Liquid Electrical Tape), dielectric grease and such are whats used to prep a board. I can answer things about what to do and how to do it but the subject can be a really deep one when you really get into it, not a simple as it seems. |
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 24, 2021 12:12:25 GMT -5
What do you mean by "arc out a board"? So im guessing that higher watt = higher temp diff between hot and cold side, but if the hot side gets too hot then theres no point running it at a higher watt since the cold side will still reach the same or even worse temps then before Guess ill have to test how cold the cold side can get with the cooling solution that im thinking of (using my 92mm tower once i swap it for watercooling or just stick a slug of ice ontop my cpu xD But why do hardware llc instead of just turning on llc in the bios? Cause when i use llc my ocs need more volt compared to just letting it naturally vdroop Cause an electrical short. Speaking of voltmods I'll have to let Mac handle this one, he understands the subject of voltmods way better than I do. If it's a voltmod he's probrably done it. I can say anytime you have the possibity for any condensation to appear you MUST prep the board for it. That means to insulate it where needed such as around the CPU socket area for example like I have to do when running Ln2 with my stuff. TEC's are capable of causing it too, be sure to read up on this subject and learn it or you'll learn it the expensive way anyway. Stuff such as LET (Liquid Electrical Tape), dielectric grease and such are whats used to prep a board. I can answer things about what to do and how to do it but the subject can be a really deep one when you really get into it, not a simple as it seems. Yeaaa i tried running a tec on my cpu once, didnt even insulate it so water droplets formed on the socket cover, but due to sheer dumb luck my p5q survived that ordeal And a replacement board isnt that expensive unless ifni get a gigabyte cause apperently those things tend to sell at 2x the price of p5q boards, prob because they have acheived legendary status in my area or something like that cause they didnt cripple their bosrds with garbage bioses (looking at you asus) I think ill use a p5q or p5q pro for the time being and sell both for a gigabyte p45 for better ocing (ram and fsb wise) Can i substitute liquid electrical tape for art eraser? Though since electrical tape is for insulation ive seen some ppl when they apply liquid metal tim they use nail polish to cover those smd components, will nail polish also work? Tbh only thing i know about voltmods is just stick a 50k or more pot linked to the fb or vsen pin of a pwm controller from what ive see reading those old voltmodding tutorials with ancient hardware Btw can you even voltmod newer boards? |
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Post by Aleslammer on Sept 24, 2021 17:03:55 GMT -5
In answer to your last question, why! For the cooling I use I've never ran out of voltage on anything S775 and past, on AM2 I've MBs that are pretty generous and others not so, anything at or past AM3 never had a lacking voltage problem. Have more than a few boards that have voltage switches directed at the LN2 folks. MB manufactures have done a pretty good job keeping in pace with the OC folks in general. On the other hand trying to make an OEM board from a large computer assembler perform better is a mute point as overall function has been crippled at board level and BIOS to make it easier for the companies support staff to respond to problems, you can pretty it up a little but it ain't no silk purse.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 25, 2021 3:00:49 GMT -5
In answer to your last question, why! For the cooling I use I've never ran out of voltage on anything S775 and past, on AM2 I've MBs that are pretty generous and others not so, anything at or past AM3 never had a lacking voltage problem. Have more than a few boards that have voltage switches directed at the LN2 folks. MB manufactures have done a pretty good job keeping in pace with the OC folks in general. On the other hand trying to make an OEM board from a large computer assembler perform better is a mute point as overall function has been crippled at board level and BIOS to make it easier for the companies support staff to respond to problems, you can pretty it up a little but it ain't no silk purse. Just curious if it was still possible to voltmod newer boards |
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Post by Bones on Sept 25, 2021 5:51:21 GMT -5
In answer to your last question, why! For the cooling I use I've never ran out of voltage on anything S775 and past, on AM2 I've MBs that are pretty generous and others not so, anything at or past AM3 never had a lacking voltage problem. Have more than a few boards that have voltage switches directed at the LN2 folks. MB manufactures have done a pretty good job keeping in pace with the OC folks in general. On the other hand trying to make an OEM board from a large computer assembler perform better is a mute point as overall function has been crippled at board level and BIOS to make it easier for the companies support staff to respond to problems, you can pretty it up a little but it ain't no silk purse. Just curious if it was still possible to voltmod newer boards It's possible to voltmod anything electrical TBH but...... What he's saying is why are you wanting to voltmod a "Yugo" board instead of a "Vette" board? May as well not waste time, effort or money on a Yugo because you will be disappointed in the end. |
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 25, 2021 8:58:01 GMT -5
Just curious if it was still possible to voltmod newer boards It's possible to voltmod anything electrical TBH but...... What he's saying is why are you wanting to voltmod a "Yugo" board instead of a "Vette" board? May as well not waste time, effort or money on a Yugo because you will be disappointed in the end. Some random idiot : puts a v8 in a yugo Actually a decent ref point since you can mod your mb vrms with epower which is equivalent to engine swapping a car, then again you cant really do anything with the chassis of a car unless you wanna swap a completely new one in and thats equivalent to swapping an entire mb, if your mb pcb aka car chassis is garbage then you cant really do much to fix it, so even if you swap your engine if your chassis cant handle the engine swap then why even bother swapping the engine Tbh i just wanna go voltmodding the lower end boards cause the high end boards are already crowded and you gotta get a really good sample to break records, ive already validated a 540fsb on my g31m s2c, though too lazy to post it on hwbot rn xD, highest fsb i can go is 542 though i think im limited by nb or pcie freq at that point Btw is there a way to replace a mobo pll? Cause my pll on the g31m s2c tops out at 195mhz pcie, theres turbo pll mods which is basically running an external freq generator for all other freq that will get negatively affected if oced and using a faster crystal on the pll though idk how to do that mod cause not much i could find on turbo pll |
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Post by Aleslammer on Sept 25, 2021 14:39:12 GMT -5
Your valid 540 would be the fastest FSB of all G31 boards on HWBot, record now is 535.
PCIE speed is limited to the weakest attached component which on my own setups now is the SSD, platter drives get you a little higher, at what point a VGA gives out have no idea. I generally set PCIE at 105, some OC guides I've read advise not to play with it, Highest I've ever used was the lower 120s on a X48 setup, in truth it's a good way to corrupt a OS. I have no idea if it would help G31, there is good thread here about using it on X58 and a damn good read.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 26, 2021 0:49:23 GMT -5
Your valid 540 would be the fastest FSB of all G31 boards on HWBot, record now is 535. PCIE speed is limited to the weakest attached component which on my own setups now is the SSD, platter drives get you a little higher, at what point a VGA gives out have no idea. I generally set PCIE at 105, some OC guides I've read advise not to play with it, Highest I've ever used was the lower 120s on a X48 setup, in truth it's a good way to corrupt a OS. I have no idea if it would help G31, there is good thread here about using it on X58 and a damn good read. Max i can get is 542fsb, actually expected more out of it but 542 in its stock form is good enough i guess My pcie tops at 195 and seems to add stability to high fsbs, any idea why it would add stability to high fsb? Since my sad p5q cant even go any further than 105 Maybe ill sell my p5q and trade it for a p31 ds3l or find an es3g and flash bios to ds3l cause my p5q kills all of my generic 500w psus and it is annoying asf to oc on, either a p5q for ds3l or p5q + p5q pro for a gigabyte p45 Current record on p31 is 546, maybe i can do some voltmodding on vtt/fsb and nb for a higher fsb, maybe ill tec cool my nb though im pretty sure my psu cables will melt if i try using a really high power tec so i think im gonna have to mod my psu and add an extra cable to it, for my testbench im thinking of doing dual psus so i can freeze my tec before turning on the system Better hope that i can find a ds3l, buy some copper, make an nb tec cooling system, and make a copper cube or cylinder that i can fill with water, stick in the freezer, and stick ontop of my cpu under 30$ cause mom gonna be mad if i spend too much money xD Well ive been taught how to cut costs for basically my whole life so shouldnt be that hard |
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 26, 2021 11:11:28 GMT -5
Im also wondering about this www.overclockers.com/do-it-yourself-pll/ , i wanna swap the crystal on my mb pll so i can raise pcie freq for higher fsbs, how does this external pll work anyways and what is the function of all the parts on this external pll? |
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Post by Bones on Sept 27, 2021 6:19:36 GMT -5
It's possible to voltmod anything electrical TBH but...... What he's saying is why are you wanting to voltmod a "Yugo" board instead of a "Vette" board? May as well not waste time, effort or money on a Yugo because you will be disappointed in the end. Actually a decent ref point since you can mod your mb vrms with epower which is equivalent to engine swapping a car, then again you cant really do anything with the chassis of a car unless you wanna swap a completely new one in and thats equivalent to swapping an entire mb, if your mb pcb aka car chassis is garbage then you cant really do much to fix it, so even if you swap your engine if your chassis cant handle the engine swap then why even bother swapping the engine Tbh i just wanna go voltmodding the lower end boards cause the high end boards are already crowded and you gotta get a really good sample to break records, ive already validated a 540fsb on my g31m s2c, though too lazy to post it on hwbot rn xD, highest fsb i can go is 542 though i think im limited by nb or pcie freq at that point Btw is there a way to replace a mobo pll? Cause my pll on the g31m s2c tops out at 195mhz pcie, theres turbo pll mods which is basically running an external freq generator for all other freq that will get negatively affected if oced and using a faster crystal on the pll though idk how to do that mod cause not much i could find on turbo pll Hey.... I resemble that remark! The thing about swapping chips and crystals is getting in way deep and does require alot of technical digging - Luckily for you there is a guy that may be able to help you. antinomyYou wanna thrown in on this? |
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Post by Vinster on Sept 27, 2021 7:52:15 GMT -5
Good questions. For the tec, if your cooling can't keep up then the cold side will run warmer. Shrimpy here has tested the most with Tec's so he would be the best person to respond.
for Vdroop, yes, it's like a HW version of LLC.
as for modding lower end board. there could be some benefit on some boards but it's hard to tell until you try. Lower end boards don't always have the PCB layout or trace locations and spacing for higher delivery so there is a potential to arc out a board. I'd suggest using a mid or high end board and using an epower. Mac here has done that in the past
Vin
What do you mean by "arc out a board"? So im guessing that higher watt = higher temp diff between hot and cold side, but if the hot side gets too hot then theres no point running it at a higher watt since the cold side will still reach the same or even worse temps then before Guess ill have to test how cold the cold side can get with the cooling solution that im thinking of (using my 92mm tower once i swap it for watercooling or just stick a slug of ice ontop my cpu xD But why do hardware llc instead of just turning on llc in the bios? Cause when i use llc my ocs need more volt compared to just letting it naturally vdroop
sorry, was away for work. Not all boards have LLC in the bios. This is when you'd mod the board. Typically you never need to mod a board with LLC unless the bios setting isn't getting you the results that you wanted. I had an older Gigabite board that have LLC (levels 1-3) but I still modded it to get a little more out of it.
Vin |
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 27, 2021 7:55:41 GMT -5
What do you mean by "arc out a board"? So im guessing that higher watt = higher temp diff between hot and cold side, but if the hot side gets too hot then theres no point running it at a higher watt since the cold side will still reach the same or even worse temps then before Guess ill have to test how cold the cold side can get with the cooling solution that im thinking of (using my 92mm tower once i swap it for watercooling or just stick a slug of ice ontop my cpu xD But why do hardware llc instead of just turning on llc in the bios? Cause when i use llc my ocs need more volt compared to just letting it naturally vdroop
sorry, was away for work. Not all boards have LLC in the bios. This is when you'd mod the board. Typically you never need to mod a board with LLC unless the bios setting isn't getting you the results that you wanted. I had an older Gigabite board that have LLC (levels 1-3) but I still modded it to get a little more out of it.
Vin Ive found that no llc gives me better ocing results for some reason |
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 27, 2021 8:13:28 GMT -5
Some random idiot : puts a v8 in a yugoActually a decent ref point since you can mod your mb vrms with epower which is equivalent to engine swapping a car, then again you cant really do anything with the chassis of a car unless you wanna swap a completely new one in and thats equivalent to swapping an entire mb, if your mb pcb aka car chassis is garbage then you cant really do much to fix it, so even if you swap your engine if your chassis cant handle the engine swap then why even bother swapping the engine Tbh i just wanna go voltmodding the lower end boards cause the high end boards are already crowded and you gotta get a really good sample to break records, ive already validated a 540fsb on my g31m s2c, though too lazy to post it on hwbot rn xD, highest fsb i can go is 542 though i think im limited by nb or pcie freq at that point Btw is there a way to replace a mobo pll? Cause my pll on the g31m s2c tops out at 195mhz pcie, theres turbo pll mods which is basically running an external freq generator for all other freq that will get negatively affected if oced and using a faster crystal on the pll though idk how to do that mod cause not much i could find on turbo pll Hey.... I resemble that remark! The thing about swapping chips and crystals is getting in way deep and does require alot of technical digging - Luckily for you there is a guy that may be able to help you. antinomy You wanna thrown in on this? Maybe i dont need to swap crystals and i can just directly speed up my pcie with an external pll so the external pll will be the turbo pll leaving the boards pll alone so i dont have to screw around with it Then id have to search up the datasheet for my pll (rtm875t 587) and find the pin that controls pcie freq Ive also been screwing around with my tec and just freezing random sht with it like heatsinks and cpus, i think i have enough headroom with my cheap chinese tower to push volts a lil higher though is this 72w tec enough to cool and overvolted p45 nb? |
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Post by antinomy on Sept 27, 2021 19:45:24 GMT -5
Thanks for bringing in, Rodney, I've missed this one. Can i substitute liquid electrical tape for art eraser? Yes, the kneaded eraser is one option. The other one is Blu tack, both are sold in stores for artists. You should start from saying it's LGA775 we're speaking of. LLC was present in BIOS in less than 10% of 775 boards. Meaning you have to do it the old fashioned way for the rest of them, especially low-end boards. Not necessary a prism, a copper plate would do, 3-5mm thick. It's required to unify the heat distribution from the NB to the TEC. The TEC itself has bad thermal conductivity so it won't work at it's full potential (the center won't handle the heat whereas the edges of the TEC will be cold but not involved in cooling the NB). Hence the need of the plate. Some call it a booster plate. Also, you need a really good cooling for the hot side. TEC doubles the heat that it takes from the NB. Water is most preferred, you can get subzero with cold water. I'm planning to do TEC water cooling myself later this year. 12706 is rated for 12V, it's Umax is 15.4 which nobody recommends to use. So 17V will kill it pretty quick. I'd go up to 14V only and only for medium heat load. On max load more volts won't give you any difference even under best cooling conditions (water cooling). I'd suggest using a dedicated 12V PSU with variable output voltage. These are pretty cheap and powerful enough so your main PSU won't get excessive load.
Both ways are good. On lower end board usually all the power distribution is weak making it work close to max specs even on stock. Epower takes off the power limit of the VRM and allows to get higher volts.
You power the epower using it's PCI-E power connector. Then you connect ground to ground and the output instead of the power choke. You remove the choke and solder the epower output to the output from your power choke. You better give a picture for more specific help.
There are modified BIOSes for P5Q series that address this problem.
These are some outstanding clocks. But for my taste, epower is a bit too much fuss just for ref clock records on budget boards. You might consider crushing iGPU records. Most of them a popular giving a decent amount of points and done on budget boards. But that's just me.
This is some insane clock for PCI-E. I've never seen such numbers. The reason with bus clocks is that best FSB results are achieved when PCI-E is overclocked proportionally with FSB. Maybe 195 is a overkill but the higher the bus the higher you should push PCI-E to get further. Another thing to consider is the right memory divider. It depends on FSB strap so lower divider is not always better, you have to figure it out.
Not likely to work. Water has great heat capacity but low heat conductivity so it's won't cool the bottom good enough without circulation.
Can you a make a photo of it? You want to use the tower for the NB TEC, right? 72W TEC should be fine for NB.
Yes, but you have to find one with the same pinout which is complicated. Not sure you'll find one with higher PCI-E limit.
Are you using SetFSB? Tried the Ultra checkbox already? Maybe try other tools like Clockgen and Systool.
I'd suggest turboPLL to be the last solution as it's hard to do and easy to kill the board if done incorrect.
I think I've answered most questions but if I missed anything, let me know.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 27, 2021 21:13:23 GMT -5
Thanks for bringing in, Rodney, I've missed this one. Can i substitute liquid electrical tape for art eraser? Yes, the kneaded eraser is one option. The other one is Blu tack, both are sold in stores for artists. You should start from saying it's LGA775 we're speaking of. LLC was present in BIOS in less than 10% of 775 boards. Meaning you have to do it the old fashioned way for the rest of them, especially low-end boards. Not necessary a prism, a copper plate would do, 3-5mm thick. It's required to unify the heat distribution from the NB to the TEC. The TEC itself has bad thermal conductivity so it won't work at it's full potential (the center won't handle the heat whereas the edges of the TEC will be cold but not involved in cooling the NB). Hence the need of the plate. Some call it a booster plate. Also, you need a really good cooling for the hot side. TEC doubles the heat that it takes from the NB. Water is most preferred, you can get subzero with cold water. I'm planning to do TEC water cooling myself later this year. 12706 is rated for 12V, it's Umax is 15.4 which nobody recommends to use. So 17V will kill it pretty quick. I'd go up to 14V only and only for medium heat load. On max load more volts won't give you any difference even under best cooling conditions (water cooling). I'd suggest using a dedicated 12V PSU with variable output voltage. These are pretty cheap and powerful enough so your main PSU won't get excessive load.
Both ways are good. On lower end board usually all the power distribution is weak making it work close to max specs even on stock. Epower takes off the power limit of the VRM and allows to get higher volts.
You power the epower using it's PCI-E power connector. Then you connect ground to ground and the output instead of the power choke. You remove the choke and solder the epower output to the output from your power choke. You better give a picture for more specific help.
There are modified BIOSes for P5Q series that address this problem.
These are some outstanding clocks. But for my taste, epower is a bit too much fuss just for ref clock records on budget boards. You might consider crushing iGPU records. Most of them a popular giving a decent amount of points and done on budget boards. But that's just me.
This is some insane clock for PCI-E. I've never seen such numbers. The reason with bus clocks is that best FSB results are achieved when PCI-E is overclocked proportionally with FSB. Maybe 195 is a overkill but the higher the bus the higher you should push PCI-E to get further. Another thing to consider is the right memory divider. It depends on FSB strap so lower divider is not always better, you have to figure it out.
Not likely to work. Water has great heat capacity but low heat conductivity so it's won't cool the bottom good enough without circulation.
Can you a make a photo of it? You want to use the tower for the NB TEC, right? 72W TEC should be fine for NB.
Yes, but you have to find one with the same pinout which is complicated. Not sure you'll find one with higher PCI-E limit.
Are you using SetFSB? Tried the Ultra checkbox already? Maybe try other tools like Clockgen and Systool.
I'd suggest turboPLL to be the last solution as it's hard to do and easy to kill the board if done incorrect.
I think I've answered most questions but if I missed anything, let me know.
Llc in my experience doesnt really help with overclocks Hmm, so will a prizm work aswell? And if it does work ill prob have to test if its any better than a copper plate Is it really that bad running that kind of volts on my tec? I can run my fans at 17v and they dont break even for prolonged periods of time, and these are cheap chinese led fans (those aliexpress ones) I thought the way to solve vrms being crap is just cooling them, guess not .-. Though will upgrading the vrm by swapping mosfets or caps help with crap vrms? Cause im not sure if im gonna go for epower Any modded bioses that are based around a maximus ii formula? And ive already tried kets bios but seems like it doesnt do much, maybe ill have to test again now that i have 1066mhz rams and abit more ocing experience What kind of igpu can i overclock? Cause im not sure if gma igpu can be oced, ryzen igpu or something? Im also boggled on why pcie goes that high, just setting it at 195 and its completely stable, heck if i run a pcie below 140 it just doesnt post, kinda weird I was thinking of freezing water in a copper cylinder and sticking it ontop my cpu since dice isnt the most accesible in my area Search up eddy 90b plus, that is the cheap chinese cooler that im using, though ive swapped the stock fan for a server fan cause i wanted to go dual fan Maybe ill have to look into the other rtm plls, though i might just yoink some random pll from another board and adapt the pinout to suit my board, time consuming asf obv, i do have a bunch of dead boards, p5kpl am se (2), p5qpl am, gp41 blabla, and a p5q pro, though at this point id prob be better off just going turbo pll Already tired the ultra checkbox, fsb limit increased to 1000mhz but thats just stupid and i dont think any board has even made it to 800mhz fsb, not even p45 so a measly g31 aint gonna do 800mhz nor 1023mhz, just tried clockgen though idk how it works and there is no rtm875t 587, and systool it just keeps failing even with testsigning and nointegritychecks on, it keeps saying driver not found (running on w7) |
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Post by antinomy on Sept 27, 2021 22:23:20 GMT -5
Llc in my experience doesnt really help with overclocks Hmm, so will a prizm work aswell? And if it does work ill prob have to test if its any better than a copper plate Is it really that bad running that kind of volts on my tec? I can run my fans at 17v and they dont break even for prolonged periods of time, and these are cheap chinese led fans (those aliexpress ones) I thought the way to solve vrms being crap is just cooling them, guess not .-. Though will upgrading the vrm by swapping mosfets or caps help with crap vrms? Cause im not sure if im gonna go for epower Any modded bioses that are based around a maximus ii formula? And ive already tried kets bios but seems like it doesnt do much, maybe ill have to test again now that i have 1066mhz rams and abit more ocing experience What kind of igpu can i overclock? Cause im not sure if gma igpu can be oced, ryzen igpu or something? Im also boggled on why pcie goes that high, just setting it at 195 and its completely stable, heck if i run a pcie below 140 it just doesnt post, kinda weird I was thinking of freezing water in a copper cylinder and sticking it ontop my cpu since dice isnt the most accesible in my area Search up eddy 90b plus, that is the cheap chinese cooler that im using, though ive swapped the stock fan for a server fan cause i wanted to go dual fan Maybe ill have to look into the other rtm plls, though i might just yoink some random pll from another board and adapt the pinout to suit my board, time consuming asf obv, i do have a bunch of dead boards, p5kpl am se (2), p5qpl am, gp41 blabla, and a p5q pro, though at this point id prob be better off just going turbo pll Already tired the ultra checkbox, fsb limit increased to 1000mhz but thats just stupid and i dont think any board has even made it to 800mhz fsb, not even p45 so a measly g31 aint gonna do 800mhz nor 1023mhz, just tried clockgen though idk how it works and there is no rtm875t 587, and systool it just keeps failing even with testsigning and nointegritychecks on, it keeps saying driver not found (running on w7) I don't think that a prism is worth the effort. I wouldn't expect any difference from a plate. Yes, 17V is too much for them. They work in a different way than fans and their performance won't scale up with voltage. Yes, swapping mosfets and caps will help with crap VRMs, it's not that much power the NB needs. Yes, I mean Ket's mod BIOS. Have a bunch of them. You could start with your G31 iGPU. Intel GPUs can't be overclocked but their performance highly depends on bus clock and memory speed and timings. That's where the fun starts.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 28, 2021 3:33:50 GMT -5
Ok im just screwing around with ocing my g31 and yep my hdd is the fsb limiting factor, it just stops working above 542mhz
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Post by antinomy on Sept 28, 2021 3:38:22 GMT -5
SATA drive? If yes, it's a miracle it isn't dead with 192 PCI-E. Maybe try IDE or even live OS from USB drive.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 28, 2021 9:35:12 GMT -5
SATA drive? If yes, it's a miracle it isn't dead with 192 PCI-E. Maybe try IDE or even live OS from USB drive. I was thinking of live usb though will w7 even install on a live usb? I only have 16gb micro sd cards that i can put into adapters with some rather shoddy quality (might mot be detected, strage issues) but i can just yoink another one from the 20 ish adapters that i have And yes its a sata drive 542fsb max, above that and it just dies |
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Post by Vinster on Sept 28, 2021 15:25:36 GMT -5
SATA drive? If yes, it's a miracle it isn't dead with 192 PCI-E. Maybe try IDE or even live OS from USB drive. I was thinking of live usb though will w7 even install on a live usb? Yes you can. I done it with Windows XP and Vista...
I recommend a min 16GB for OS, then have a second USB for applications. Have them plugged in to different USB hubs if there are more than 1 on your board.
Vin
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Post by antinomy on Sept 28, 2021 16:49:09 GMT -5
Yes, you can run any Windows version live. There are prepped ISOs with live OS so you just burn the ISO image to your flash drive and you're good to go.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 29, 2021 1:50:51 GMT -5
Yes, you can run any Windows version live. There are prepped ISOs with live OS so you just burn the ISO image to your flash drive and you're good to go. Can i use my regular w7 ultimate iso? Cause thats the only iso i have Or are you talking about windows pre install environment? |
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Post by Bones on Sept 29, 2021 2:19:28 GMT -5
No, it has to be as said - Prepped with live OS so it boots from the iso itself with no further prep to work.
The iso you have needs to be installed for it to work and that's to a drive.
The difference here is you just burn the image to a thumbdrive and it works with live OS instead of it needing to go through the install routine after being burned.
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Post by Vinster on Sept 29, 2021 13:17:05 GMT -5
Follow the video I posted but use your Win7 ISO for install, download links were in the "read More". There they are using WintoUSB to create the install environment on the USB drive. I did it a number of years ago. but if you search online you can find pre-made installations for USB and then you just need a program like Rufus to extract the ISO to a USB drive and go.
it was a fun but frustrating process. glad I can say I made it work once... I've looked in my backup to see if I still had some windows based Live ISO, but the only live USB's I have found are linux based. Seems I deleted them.
Vin
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 30, 2021 0:48:46 GMT -5
Ive got the live windows usb now but i cant access wifi for some reason, i can connect to it but i cant actually use the internet for some reason, which means i cant install setfsb
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Post by Aleslammer on Sept 30, 2021 7:55:22 GMT -5
I keep a USB stick with everything I'd need for almost every platform and OS I've played with. Includes OC Tools, MB/VGA/USB drivers, OS updates & patches needed for certain benches, bench tweak readmes, etc. If I need to connect for sub reasons I've a extra long patch cord. The older the hardware the more information keep is very important as things disappear on the net.
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Post by Bones on Sept 30, 2021 8:40:39 GMT -5
I keep a USB stick with everything I'd need for almost every platform and OS I've played with. Includes OC Tools, MB/VGA/USB drivers, OS updates & patches needed for certain benches, bench tweak readmes, etc. If I need to connect for sub reasons I've a extra long patch cord. The older the hardware the more information keep is very important as things disappear on the net. Yes, that's why I have an external HDD I use as an archive for such things. |
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