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Post by zila1 on Aug 13, 2019 18:04:24 GMT -5
ShrimpBrime : Here's the Heat Killer I told you I had forgotten all about Jon. (Thanks to you for mentioning Heat Killer or I never would have remembered it. LOL)The AM4 Conversion Kit just arrived and I just finished installing it. It's Rev. 3 LC model. I am not at all familiar with these. This has been sitting on a shelf in parts closet for quite a long time. Let's see what this combined with some serious cooling parts can do to tame the heat of this Ryzen 7 2700X. Edit: do you actually use a torque wrench of sorts to tighten this down? It says it should be tightened down to 200N?
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 13, 2019 18:24:44 GMT -5
I have used a 1/4" torque wrench for mounting hardware yes indeed. Bought it a few years back. You'd be surprised how far off you can be by doing it by "feel" methods. Since many processors I've played with de-lidded, the best mounting I've done with best results was with a torque wrench. Can pick one up very cheap at harbor freight tools.
Parts will be on the way in two days Eddie.
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Post by zila1 on Aug 13, 2019 19:18:06 GMT -5
No hurry Jon. Okay, I've got a 1/4" drive torque wrench. It's in inch pounds. This could be fun figuring out the best torque specs for it.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 13, 2019 19:49:23 GMT -5
I'd bet those specs are the fastener force that holds the block together. 200n like newton meter, that's about 1770 inch pounds of force.
If it where 200kg of force, that would be more like 180 inch pounds over 4 screws. So 60 inch pounds per screw x4 config. Probably would be enough for 2x screws, but I'd up it a tad bit.
My math is horrible. Sry its 45 inch pounds x4 screws. Lol. I need to proof read more often.
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Post by zila1 on Aug 13, 2019 21:13:11 GMT -5
LOL, don't worry about it. My math skills are horrible. I need a calculator just to figure out how old I am each year. ROFLMAO
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 13, 2019 21:29:03 GMT -5
Haha, I'm getting there. 40 is a good number. Getting fat though.
to be honest about torque on a cpu, in most cases it doesn't require wrenching and such. The IHS plate really does mask uneven torque as you look at the crappy design of heat sinks, in particular the ones that clip on. IMO it's a pretty sloppy way top fasten a heat sink. The issue isn't the board or backing plate. It's the plastic retainer that's screwed to the board. So while I've had to be sure of clamping force or more so worried about uneven clamping force, it doesn't hurt to actually take measurements. What I mean is, tighten the screws by hand and then measure it with the torque wrench. If what you feel by hand is tight enough and you've gotten a spec, tighten them with the torque ratchet so they are even to approximate of each finger tightened screw. You'll be surprised how tight your fingers can get them!
I used to get a lot of bending in the board and backplate. so much so that the cpu would not make contact with the pins and resulted in a no post. This is when I learnt even clamping force makes a big difference.
You see a lot of reviews with thermal compounds and then think about all the variables that are over looked during testing. clamping force is never a key factor in thermal paste reviews. Each time the heat sink is removed, the amount of paste will change the clamping force of the cooling apparatus each time it's removed then installed again. Then you could loose 1c. When comparing pastes, this may make a difference in a person's purchase.
Just remember it doesn't have to be super tight. Just even clamping force is all that needs to worry about.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 14, 2019 18:35:53 GMT -5
K zila1 the box is ready. Inside included is 4 radiators 4 fans a nice pump and mini res. Also included is another waterblock that has a heat monster under it. It's not a newer card and those are all the hints I'll give ya at this time. lol. A fair bit of warning, you'll need some barbs and tubing. I use clear acrylic from ace hardware or like hardware store. (tubing) The block on the card does have 2 plugs and 2 open ports, so you'll be ok there, but check the o-rings for sure, if not just replace them for good measure. Also I did not clean this hardware. It is dusty and may smell like exotic smokes (tobacco mainly) and I apologize for that extra bit of work you'll have to do. I'll PM that tracking number to you tomorrow.
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Post by zila1 on Aug 14, 2019 18:39:42 GMT -5
Exotic smokes...…….ROFLMAO. It's okay Jon. I was a detailer. Cleaning is second nature to me. Thank you very much Jon. I'm sure I'll have lots of fun with it.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 14, 2019 23:13:50 GMT -5
Don't mention it. Just happy the stuff will get used
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 15, 2019 15:58:17 GMT -5
You has a pm Eddie.
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Post by Vinster on Aug 15, 2019 22:04:04 GMT -5
it's for shit in the above posts that make me love you guys. you guys are the greatest out there
Vin
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 15, 2019 22:15:37 GMT -5
Man I just wish all the rest of you guys lived closer. That was a 12.3 lb box and shipped for 12.64$ through FedEx. I know that USPS would have been more. I even had a 5$ off coupon, but could only be used with purchases of over 15$ shipping rated parcel.
What's even funnier about it is that FedEx opened up in the Walmart (less than a mile from home!!) and that really is going to make shipping packages easier for me. I'm there getting 3 to 4 gallons of milk a week... dog food... everything in between lol. Now can ship stuff too!!
BUT, the discontinued the DryIce. I complained to the manager, she didn't care at all. They have a new manager now.... maybe I can talk to that guy about it!! Yes oh please please bring Shrimpy some DryIce. I so miss being able to get 10 bucks worth and super cool a processor.....
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 18, 2019 18:01:12 GMT -5
Eddie, I did some swapping around with hardware today. The wife was in bad need of upgrade from a Gigabyte and 1389 Opteron to Athlon 220GE with Vega graphics and eliminated the GTX 760 from her PC. This will conserve a pretty good amount of powers and that's a good thing. Her PC is always on or at least in sleep mode, but on. An impressive improvement for her indeed. All stock but only has one stick of 8GB to work with for now so no dual channel. I gave her the Asus Prime B450M-A is working just fine. This is the PC I was inquiring the W10 for. Any ways I knocked off roughly 180 watts from her rig, likely to notice that on the electric bill!! Cool.. So then now onto my rig, which is now running the lid-less PGA 2700X again with the stock air cooler. still with 16GB of COrsair 3000 sticks. First things first, now posting at XMP profile 1500/3000Mhz 16-17-17-35-70. Seems very loose, but this is the first time the 2700X has run these memory speeds. I knew that B450M-A was no good for high mem clocks. So that's a big plus note. So this board is the Asus ROG STRIX B450-I Gaming board. It's fully featured in the bios even with unlocked BCLK (101 is totally unstable...) and twice as many board features all together. Right now running 4.1Ghz with voltage and VRMs on auto, just like with the B450M-A except a much faster memory speed. (I can't tell any difference yet lol) and will be doing a little testing heavier in 24 hours to let the paste set up under the heat sink and IHS plate. The voltage at 4.1Ghz on auto is reported by Cpu-z at 1.417v which seems identical to the previous motherboard, I'm assuming this is more of a Cpu controlled function. In short, when I search for that beyond 4.5ghz.... I don't expect to get it. But at least I can run 3000mhz memory now!!! (gimmie a minute to conjure up a screen shot.)
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Post by zila1 on Aug 19, 2019 20:31:00 GMT -5
Oh yeah, nice Jon. I'm liking that a lot. By the way, of all the rads you sent me. The one I chose for the 2700X is the Swiftech 360 rad. I straightened out a few bent fins and painted it a fresh black. It looks brand spanking new. I have Swiftech Helix fans in stock for the rad and I'm gonna get the MCP655 Mod kit for the pump and I'll use the mini res you sent me too. Thanks very much pal-o-mine. It's gonna take some time as I'm very busy as of late but you just know I'm gonna post up when I'm ready. It's gonna be one bad ass rig let me tell ya.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 19, 2019 22:02:00 GMT -5
Oh by no means where those rads in perfect shape lol. Glad you like the stuff. Can't wait to see the build, take your time! The card you can bench or use as a paper weight or w/e. I have another one just like it.
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Post by zila1 on Aug 19, 2019 22:08:38 GMT -5
I might bench the card with a PII 965BE I have laying around. Could be fun.
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Post by Bones on Aug 19, 2019 22:31:10 GMT -5
zila1 Dooooooo iiiiiiiiiittt!
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Post by zila1 on Aug 20, 2019 11:34:12 GMT -5
zila1 Dooooooo iiiiiiiiiittt! When the cool weather sets in. I have a brand new(sitting in a drawer for about 9-10 years) never run 965BE I am curious about.
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Post by zila1 on Aug 28, 2019 20:58:30 GMT -5
Had some time to put something together. Leak tested for 24 hours. That is as far as I've gotten. Been real busy hardly any time for doing stuff. I don't like the waterblock. The mounting kit for it sucks. And it isn't beefy enough for this chip but it was sitting in the closet and it's the only water block I currently have. I'll get a good one later on. I absolutely love, love, love the water pump Jon. That thing kicks ass. Thank you so much. I'm loving it.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 28, 2019 21:08:27 GMT -5
Nice build Eddie! Nice and clean, love the all black. Yea it's a good pump. I did use that with a chiller some time ago. If that's an all copper block, it'll cool a lot better than any AIO cold plate so long as you've got a nice tight mount. Glad you like it. Should do the trick nicely, weather is getting cooler now too, but should help in those summer months.
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Post by zila1 on Aug 28, 2019 21:36:55 GMT -5
The water block is an older cheap version. Heat Killer Rev 3 LC. It's really thin. I think it has too much restriction and the mounting brackets bend easily(cheap). This chip is holding a lot of heat under her cap. It would take a really good water block to pull it out. Still a work in progress and lots of fun to play with. I'm enjoying the snot out of it.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 28, 2019 22:04:31 GMT -5
Oh I see now, zoomed in. It won't get rid of those full load spikes, but should keep temps a little lower than AIO or Air cooling. Like you said, you can always get a different block later. You'll always have a restriction at the pumps and rads. that's normal, but also causes tube pressure. Your pump is variable, you'll be taking time to tune the water cooling to your overclocks. And this is why Custom is the way to go. If you can, shell the money out for a nice big heavy full copper block. It'll be the last waterblock you need to purchase That's why I like my old Thermal take Big Water block. I have it modded with a steel top plate. The acrylic cracked at least 9 or 10 years ago. I've had a couple few of them. The O-Ring for the top fits almost perfectly a 2" round brass or copper pipe. Solder together and bam, instant Dice/LN pot. When I de-lidded the 2700X, it allows me to use a much larger copper plate instead of the IHS plate. Disadvantage is TIM instead of solder, so heat transfer is slowed a little bit. The Pro is that the plate can retain a larger amount of BTU giving the cooler more time to dissipate. It does run a tad warmer, but takes longer to get hot. I only see upper 80c when using the IHS plate.
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Post by zila1 on Aug 28, 2019 22:19:37 GMT -5
I've got the pump set to about number 3 on the speed dial. That's plenty. I can see the water dancing in the reservoir. This pump gets rid of air bubbles quick. Nice.
Yeah, I'll get a REAL nice water block later on. For now I'm okay.
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Post by zila1 on Aug 29, 2019 17:37:26 GMT -5
Okay I let her burn in for a couple hours while I was out and about taking care of some things. She is spikey. This is at bios defaults. PBO is NOT enabled. I saw it hitting mid 80s. Ambients are high in here right now. A/C is off. It's about 27*C in here. I'm hoping a new good quality copper block might tame this beast enough for me to enable PBO. This chip is a hottie. Edit: I removed the cheap screws and springs that came with the Heat Killer and used a spare NH-D14 screw and spacer kit to mount this block. The included screws and springs suck.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 29, 2019 17:46:06 GMT -5
That 82c temp looks better than before and even with 80f ambient temps!! Nice!
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Post by zila1 on Aug 29, 2019 17:55:31 GMT -5
^^^^^^^^^^^^definitely headed in the right direction with it^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ But I want it better than this of course. Next month I'll go cpu block shopping. Edit: If anybody has a recommendation on a really good cpu waterblock give a shout out.
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Post by Vinster on Aug 29, 2019 18:57:14 GMT -5
these Ryzen's seem to have those speed bumps. my 1700x has it, my sons 1800x... nothing I can do about them
Vin
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Post by zila1 on Aug 29, 2019 19:09:15 GMT -5
Ain't that the truth Vin. Spikey, Spikey, Spikey.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 29, 2019 20:05:38 GMT -5
Nature of core size and design. Much better floating point, but does add heat as a result. Intels are the same way.
But Zila1, you're way inside the safe zone at 82c. There's people that wish they had nice temps like that!
--
There is not a lot of choices in all copper waterblocks. HeatKiller IV Pro. That's the one I'd get. If earlier platform HeatKiller Rev 3.0. If I had a machine, I'd design my own blocks.... but alas I do not. A copper 3D printer isn't cheap. But imagine what you could do to increase surface area while not sacrificing so much copper Mass.
Most blocks are a thin plate. with acrylic top sections (or plastic of some sort) and as we know, these materials are insulators. With a block like the HeatKill, being all copper top to bottom is that you have the advantage of using a small fan right on top of the waterblock. you can and will dissipate quite a bit of heat in this fashion. I do this with my TECs using an all copper block. Works wonders.
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Post by zila1 on Aug 29, 2019 20:12:58 GMT -5
Nature of core size and design. Much better floating point, but does add heat as a result. Intels are the same way. But Zila1, you're way inside the safe zone at 82c. There's people that wish they had nice temps like that! -- There is not a lot of choices in all copper waterblocks. HeatKiller IV Pro. That's the one I'd get. If earlier platform HeatKiller Rev 3.0. If I had a machine, I'd design my own blocks.... but alas I do not. A copper 3D printer isn't cheap. But imagine what you could do to increase surface area while not sacrificing so much copper Mass. Most blocks are a thin plate. with acrylic top sections (or plastic of some sort) and as we know, these materials are insulators. With a block like the HeatKill, being all copper top to bottom is that you have the advantage of using a small fan right on top of the waterblock. you can and will dissipate quite a bit of heat in this fashion. I do this with my TECs using an all copper block. Works wonders. I know Jon, but I'm like a whore in that way. I always want more. I was looking at that Heatkiller IV Pro a while back but I wanted to give this one a try first. It's okay but it's not the full copper block like the IV Pro. The Rev 3 LC is more in tune for an AM3 setup. This block would be nice on a well clocked 965BE or an FX.
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