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Post by Vinster on May 29, 2018 8:48:31 GMT -5
Certain places in the house we run 30amp breakers. A have a couple for the kitchen and out in the garage.... Amerika also has 240v...... It's what my washer and dryer, air compressor and so forth run on..... Its 220v split phase isnt it which is just 2 110v lines in opposing phase. Here for the heavy duty stuff we have 415v 45A 3 phase. But generally electric hot water services and stoves generally run on 240v 20A single phase.
it's almost like that here too Mac. For a Stove here it runs 240V/2x 120V with a neutral usually between 30-40 amps (2 Pole breaker). The big elements inside use the 240V and the top elements share 120V (left is one cct, right is the other typically). we have split 120V which is 2x120v with Neutral Lines. You go across the 120v lines and get 240V with no Neutral for L1/L2 components.
That's how my Big AC unit works, its 240V, I don't have the $300 to buy the breaker and wire to install it, that's been that delay...
Industrial out here is typically 575VAC 3 Phase Delta Circuits
I've had one fail and pop a motherboard, I'll personally never use one again. if the end wasn't a split plug, I'd rather shave the connector to make it a split plug.
Vin
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Post by Vinster on May 29, 2018 8:53:21 GMT -5
wow, yep, been under a rock. Vaguely remember those apps, didn't think they were all that applicable anymore. seems I'm wrong. anyone have BTUK? have .net 3.5, OCX and Memset. Vin I love you man
Vin
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Post by Vinster on May 29, 2018 9:18:24 GMT -5
Guess I'll have to stick with Win7, I can't get the GPU to be detected in WinXP with HWMon. I got to me be missing something silly at this point.
Vin
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Post by Vinster on May 29, 2018 10:27:50 GMT -5
I got it, I'm using v1.17 and I can see my GPU temps now in XP. I'm a happy camper. now to OC Vin
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Post by Bones on May 29, 2018 11:58:45 GMT -5
Its 220v split phase isnt it which is just 2 110v lines in opposing phase. Here for the heavy duty stuff we have 415v 45A 3 phase. But generally electric hot water services and stoves generally run on 240v 20A single phase.
it's almost like that here too Mac. For a Stove here it runs 240V/2x 120V with a neutral usually between 30-40 amps (2 Pole breaker). The big elements inside use the 240V and the top elements share 120V (left is one cct, right is the other typically). we have split 120V which is 2x120v with Neutral Lines. You go across the 120v lines and get 240V with no Neutral for L1/L2 components.
That's how my Big AC unit works, its 240V, I don't have the $300 to buy the breaker and wire to install it, that's been that delay...
Industrial out here is typically 575VAC 3 Phase Delta Circuits
I've had one fail and pop a motherboard, I'll personally never use one again. if the end wasn't a split plug, I'd rather shave the connector to make it a split plug.
Vin
I've thought about splitting the plug too and it would still work normally but since I do have a PSU that has the 20+4 end I'll just go with what works - No extra expense or risk involved that way.
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Post by ving on May 29, 2018 17:43:23 GMT -5
When electricity in our houses is done by emt pipes we can always rewire/replace old wires 14awg(15a breaker) for 12awg(20a breaker)...and also add green wire(ground)...is required (Elgin, Bartlett, Schaumburg...IL)...even if green wire is not required in Your area just add (safety first)...first spot on which You can get electric shock is plastic cover screws...its a sigh that You have damaged coupling or connector...when we have arfould breakers we have to make separate line(dedicated circuit) from the panel(hot, neutral and ground)...the biggest fun is when we have "romex"...it will cost little higher... Best regards
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Post by Mr.Scott on May 29, 2018 19:09:20 GMT -5
Pretty much everything here is Romex.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on May 29, 2018 19:19:47 GMT -5
Yep I'm wired with some Romex. Looked in the Panel. My 240v lines are single Phase 2 wire + ground. No neutral.
Edit. I may be wrong. It could be a neutral and conduit is ground.....
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Post by bud on May 29, 2018 21:54:16 GMT -5
Yep I'm wired with some Romex. Looked in the Panel. My 240v lines are single Phase 2 wire + ground. No neutral. Edit. I may be wrong. It could be a neutral and conduit is ground..... Around here the Code is 8 Ga. 4 Wire with a ground wire; if it is buried underground it has to have an external bare copper wire with no paper coating like you find in 8 Ga. 4 wire with a ground wire inside the insulation.
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Post by Aleslammer on May 30, 2018 11:06:39 GMT -5
The house I'm in now all Romex (built in the 80s), 14 ga. lighting, 12 ga. wall sockets all 110v 15 amp. Have four sockets on two lines 12 ga. 110v 20 amps in the garage as well as one 220/240v single phase 30 or 40 amp 10 ga. socket for the dryer (not used gas dryer) pretty much UBC as far I know. CA a bunch of years back passed Prop 13 that limited property taxes to 1% plus a small inflation increase a year of the cost of building or last selling price of the house. A lot of county's and cities have exceeded UBC standards generally under safety and or environmental concerns for anything that will increase the building cost to help bring in tax revenue.
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Post by Vinster on May 30, 2018 17:15:58 GMT -5
Volt Modded my Card, But I'm hitting some sort of OCP I'm guessing. I can't get my Core higher than 1.20v. using a Corsais H100i to cool the GPU, temps are under 45 degrees C
Any thoughts?
Couldn't figure out where to read the voltages from so I went direct to the chokes
vMem
VCore
Vin
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Post by Vinster on May 30, 2018 17:52:53 GMT -5
ok, got it past 1.20v on the core.. I was counting the number of turns per 0.01V and it took way more turns to go from 1.20 to 1.21. now that I'm here, going up is as it was up to 1.20v.
what's the highest that you guys recommend for volts? I'm not used to GPU OC'ing. is it the same as CPU's and using temps as your gauge?
I'm peaking at 45 Degrees, running 1.26 Volts. Using 70 Degrees as my limit as that's when the card took a shit when on air.
for vMem, I've read to not go past 2.10v I'm at 2.00v when loaded now.
thoughts?
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Post by Vinster on May 30, 2018 18:16:47 GMT -5
Oh, and I figured out why my temps were crappy after I re-TIM the card.... Shitty stock cooler... Thing is shaped like a cup Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on May 30, 2018 18:24:59 GMT -5
What controller ADP4100? Looks the same as the VRM on my MSI card down to the small red solid caps on the output. That card blew a mosfet at 1.29v its the reason it got epowered real quick. The Galaxy card the standard VRM was handling 1.57v the VRM was getting warm but it was OK. Towards the end of a bench I would see how hot the mosfets are that would probably be your best gauge and if they are not too hot up it a bit more.
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Post by Vinster on May 30, 2018 18:40:48 GMT -5
yep, that's the controller. I just hit my pot limit trying to get to 1.42v (Used a 50k 10 turn) and the card hard locked and turned off. between Pin 18 and GND I had 1.182K, I know I should had used a ~30K pot but all I have here are 50's. the Memory is a uP6161N, so from Pin 4 to GND I got 0.772K, should be a 20K Pot but again all I have here are 50's. but luckily I haven't had to play with Mem much. I've been focusing on GPUPI since the Mod and Cooling change. I'm now trying a stock clock run on 3DM03 to see if the card is OK. Here is what my mess looks like right now; Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on May 30, 2018 19:05:50 GMT -5
Overvolt protection would of shut the controller down probably, 50k trimmer is quite Ok they all wind down to zero ohms the main thing is that you have enough resistance more isnt too bad adjustment starts slowly but when it does its a bit coarser. So 1.4v will probably be your limit. Generally on water the GPU doesnt like more than 1.5v depending on the chip 1.4v will make a big difference to your clock. With my MSI card I was getting 2100 shader with 1.42v but that was with a epower the Galaxy card took 1.57v to get to 2070 shader. Memory depending on weather its Hynix or Samsung will depend on the scaling you will get, Hynix tends to be better with voltage 2.2v should be quite Ok.
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Post by Vinster on May 30, 2018 19:39:47 GMT -5
nope, 1.3v was my limit. running 3DM03, had a good clock going and a few caps just blew, FET's were at 75 degrees. I have a good GPUPI score a better than stock 3DM03. Need to focus on the 2D's now.
will post pics soon.
Vin
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Post by Vinster on May 30, 2018 19:48:36 GMT -5
Other than these caps, I don't see anything wrong. might be able to fix it. not on time for this comp though. them the breaks.
oh, and this card has Samsung Memory on it.
Vin
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Post by Vinster on May 30, 2018 20:23:11 GMT -5
and a messed up pulling my screenshots and lost my highest 3DM03 score. it's wan't astounding, but was in the mid 65K, it would have put me 16th in the current standings... the one before that 63K will put me in 17th, that one I was able to save.. what a bummer...
Vin
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Post by Mr.Scott on May 30, 2018 21:01:44 GMT -5
You blew some shit up benching Vin. It's been a while since you last did that. Is it everything you remember it was? Mods look great BTW.
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Post by Vinster on May 30, 2018 22:36:52 GMT -5
You blew some shit up benching Vin. It's been a while since you last did that. Is it everything you remember it was? Mods look great BTW. It is everything I remember, including the smell... wife and kids came down wondering if I had something on fire.. lol
I found another one, $20 and the guy is down the road. I can get it tomorrow between 3-4pm have it modded and running my 6pm (i'd hope). I'm off work tomorrow
I'll be more careful on the VRM's, maybe heat sink them and watch those caps, though there was no warning on those cannons...
I have GPUPI done, a hair away from breaking in to the 4m... (missed it by that much)
3DM03 I have a 63k score... bummer I lost the mid 65k
working on X265 4K right now, but this CPU is too old and isn't any competition to the newer stuff I'm struggling to get over 3.12fps ... I'll be holding my 21st position there.
Tomorrow morning I'm working on Geek. start with turning off HT and hope to get the clocks up more to be competitive... my CPU is at 1.425V, 210x21-4400Ghz, it's a XEON so I can't play on any other multi's. but my 2000Mhz ram is running at 2100Mhz on stock timings... so I'm happy there, I haven't had to loosen them up yet.
with luck back at it with 3DM03 tomorrow evening.
I'll try and see what these caps are, I'm not at all familiar with these cans.
With a lot of luck I'll be in the top 10 overall, hope the guys that have only run 3 benches stay that way.
Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on May 30, 2018 23:38:15 GMT -5
I am surprised about the caps going I was putting 1.65v through mine with the epower and those caps didnt give a problem. They are surface mount solids you can just scrape parts of the silkscreen off the back of the card use a small electronics screwdriver its easy to scrape 4mm squares off to solder to and throw a few 1000uf 6.3v electros on or something similar thats 6.3v its pretty easy to see where you need to solder to on the back there is a strip down the back where the output of the chokes are and there is ground next to it that is actually where I solder on my voltage measurement tails. Samsung I am not surprised having the same VRM as my MSI I dont think more voltage will get you anymore out of them.
For Geek its single thread so turn cores off as well at HT
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Post by Shadyreaper on May 31, 2018 7:33:50 GMT -5
nope, 1.3v was my limit. running 3DM03, had a good clock going and a few caps just blew, FET's were at 75 degrees. I have a good GPUPI score a better than stock 3DM03. Need to focus on the 2D's now. will post pics soon. Vin that is the same shit my old BFG GTX 260 did Vin totally sucks
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Post by Vinster on May 31, 2018 8:08:46 GMT -5
there is a strip down the back where the output of the chokes are and there is ground next to it that is actually where I solder on my voltage measurement tails. I had thought too Mac, I had add some caps there but the card wouldn't post when I did that.
these pad here right?
I had added 820uF-6.3v Nichon caps and the card would flicker and die on boot.
Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on May 31, 2018 8:13:15 GMT -5
I have circled it in green If you was thinking of the D154 and his mates they are for diodes but are not used in the final design.
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Post by Vinster on May 31, 2018 8:19:11 GMT -5
Ah, so you scrape off that screening and put the Hot side of the cap there and the negative of the Cap would go to the negative pole of those Diodes?
Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on May 31, 2018 8:27:15 GMT -5
Where I have the green line outside of that rectangle just scrape a little bit off there for the ground you dont have to stretch the cap leg over to the diode spot although it will do.
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Post by Vinster on May 31, 2018 9:19:40 GMT -5
The buggers just slipped off, I didn't have to un-solder them.. lol This what you meant Mac? Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on May 31, 2018 9:26:02 GMT -5
Yep that looks good. Good Luck
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Post by Aleslammer on May 31, 2018 10:35:13 GMT -5
Vin looking great!!!!!!
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