|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 1, 2016 22:51:48 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by Macsbeach98 on Dec 1, 2016 23:12:34 GMT -5
Just cut out a piece of Closed cell foam to fit tightly around the waterblock and socket to seal it off and you are good to go.
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 1, 2016 23:13:41 GMT -5
Just cut out a piece of Closed cell foam to fit tightly around the waterblock and socket to seal it off and you are good to go. do I need to put anything in the socket?? and can I just use plastilina I dont have a piece of close foam yet I couldnt find any I also have a piece of tubing insulation I am gonna wrap the tubes with later once I get it all put together on a board and ready to go so I can cut it to the length I need |
|
|
|
Post by ozz on Dec 2, 2016 0:03:20 GMT -5
as pete said foam is the go, if it isnt sealed from air you'll get condensation in the socket, then you have boot problems and can kill you board and cpu
have you got any foam in a motherboard box that they sat the board on it, if you cant blow air through it it will work
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 2, 2016 0:11:16 GMT -5
as pete said foam is the go, if it isnt sealed from air you'll get condensation in the socket, then you have boot problems and can kill you board and cpu have you got any foam in a motherboard box that they sat the board on it, if you cant blow air through it it will work I got one piece its kinda thick tho what do I need to do seal between the cpu and waterblock so no air gets by the copper plate of the block??? take this paper towel as an example do I need it here with just the cpu cut out like that cause I dont have a piece thin enough for that  |
|
|
|
Post by ozz on Dec 2, 2016 0:23:27 GMT -5
you need to cut the foam the size of the square the copper plate is on the water block, if the foam is too thick more than likely you wont get the face touching the cpu ihs plate, i use tim paste to make sure i get a good spread from the cpu onto the water block face, the hold down studs look long enough, when i get the foam the right thickness i smear the foam in vaseline, put new tim on and fit the block, the foam will compress but how ? i dont know what sort of foam youve got, some foam is more dense and harder to compress than others
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 2, 2016 0:40:36 GMT -5
I got this thick ass piece  this is what it looks like with it cut out for the copper plate  and I got all this shit in the way under that sticks up taller then the socket  |
|
|
|
Post by ozz on Dec 2, 2016 0:52:38 GMT -5
it looks like its about 1/2" thick ?, also too, ive found i make sure its not pushing down hard on the capacitors when you tighten the block down, i could damage the solder on the cap, hasnt done it to me but im always conscious of it i usually do cutouts around the caps, easy way to do that is put tim on the each end cap, then you know how much to cut out, just draw a line from 1 to the other and you can see how much depth into the foam that needs to be cut out take your time jas, do it once do it right, have a look in here where pete started this thread , will give you all the info you need warp9-systems.proboards.com/thread/84/insulation-guide |
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 2, 2016 1:09:00 GMT -5
see the prob I am looking at is that those caps are too close to the socket they almost hit the copper plate of the block  |
|
|
|
Post by ozz on Dec 2, 2016 1:25:40 GMT -5
i know jas and its very important that theyre sealed around, you dont want condensation gettin underneath the caps we had all sorts of picks of insulation of different boards when we were CP, unfortunately theyre gone now, and i didnt save any, dunno if any other boys have,  |
|
|
|
Post by Macsbeach98 on Dec 2, 2016 4:58:26 GMT -5
That is a nice pic for him Shane its just a bit small.
Hang on
|
|
|
|
Post by ozz on Dec 2, 2016 5:18:43 GMT -5
That is a nice pic for him Shane its just a bit small. Hang on i just remembered pete, ive got the P5WD and a coupe of others still set up with the pads on em which is pretty similar to his P5B if thats what it is, i cant read the writing on his pic, i can take a pic of that, and i can take a pic of the sponge for the block as well, he needs a base sponge pad, then another straight flat pad the same size as the bolt pattern with just the block cut out in it,to come up to the cap level, the caps will be safe then and then the block sponge pad on top, but depending on how thick his s block sponge thickness is he he might have to change it so the block meets the ihs plate right |
|
|
|
Post by ozz on Dec 2, 2016 6:47:20 GMT -5
the P5WD with the 1st foam pad, with vaseline smeared on it, dont forget to do the rear of the board around the socket and backplate area when you cut out the 1st pad, and tuck it in everywhere it needs to be, a nail file does that good, dont worry about the nuts on the top of the mobo where you have fitted the backplate, the 1st foam pad goes over the nuts and the final pressure of it all will detent into the 1st foam pad where the holding nuts are on the mobo, try make the fit around the stainless steel socket housing nice and firm fit then gently prize it around and tuck it in and under the tags with round end of the nail file , the pointy end youll rip the sponge, ive done that b4 and had to make another one, just gently tuckr the pad around the socket toplate lock down lever before you lock the top plate down then lock it in place , itll push the foam down and make its own detent in the sponge to make it easier to lock in next time you change the cpu the other blue pad fits on top the 1st , that brings the pads nearly up to capacitor height, vaselined again, the cut out is of the blocks size, no need to make the cut outs for the capacitors with the 2nd blue pad or what ever colour you use lol the white sponge is entirely for the block only, when you cut it out make the cut out a bit smaller than the copper block size to you have to sort of squeeze it over the block, like an interference fit type thing, the white block pad that ensures the sides of the block are sealed, vaselined again, just smear the vaso and rub it in to all the pad ( do the same for the 2nd blue sponge pad, not too tight tho , dont forget when you tighten the block down the block area has to squeeze into that 2nd blue pad, if it doesnt itll leave a mark where its caught it and you wont get full block contact with the ihs plate), to cut the square nicely in the 2nd pad put the foam cut the size for the 4 backplate bolts and put it on over the 1 st pad, then put your block on and tighten it down, leave it for 15 mins checking the nut tightness holding it on as the foam will compress a bit and you want the block to mark the sponge , when you take it off youll see the block pressure has marked the size of the block face in the sponge, get a pen or a thin tipped texta colour and draw the 4 lines the block has made, theres the size of the block square you need to cut out, always cut the inside of the line your pen or the texta colour makes, that way you give it a firmer fit over the block face and you have a bit to play with to cut out if its too tight for the block to slip into nicely tho meet the ihs plate a good way to pretty much guage what thickness block sponge you will need is put the 2nd pad over the 1st pad, on the mounting bolts of course, then sit the block on the mounting bolts then have a look at the clearance you have between the 2nd pad and the hold down plate on the block, you will need a sponge pad thats about 1/4" thicker than that clearance you see between the hold down plate and the 2nd pads so it compresses and applies enough pressure to push down and seal for no air to get in, when you tighten down your springs and nuts on the hold down plate then you can put your tim on and check your tim coverage for a good cover of the block and ihs plate, when youre happy with that youre good to go, it takes a bit of time jas but its worth it  |
|
|
|
Post by Macsbeach98 on Dec 2, 2016 7:22:42 GMT -5
Here I found a couple of Shane's pics. He used to take better pics  I am sure you are getting the idea now Shady.  |
|
|
|
Post by ozz on Dec 2, 2016 7:29:39 GMT -5
Here I found a couple of Shane's pics. He used to take better pics I am sure you are getting the idea now Shady. lol looks like that could be a old CP pic, im havin trouble with the re sizing to try keep it to as close to 1MB as i can |
|
|
|
Post by Macsbeach98 on Dec 2, 2016 7:40:16 GMT -5
I keep mine to 300kb or less that is the size of the one I just posted.
And yes it was 2 pics from CP edited into one pic.
We will spend an hour showing you how to resize them tomorrow with Photoshop CS2.
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 2, 2016 8:58:15 GMT -5
I am doing my best to find a place in town to get a sheet of foam 1st place I called had a $500 min to purchase lmao gonna keep looking tho not gonna give up just yet I got frustrated last night with it (it was 2am) gonna work on it again today if I can find this cell foam if not I might be trying to make that thick piece thin lol
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 2, 2016 13:37:05 GMT -5
I bought some thin foam sheets from staples 100 for 10 they are 12"x12" squares now I can cut out for the socket and caps better
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 2, 2016 15:55:07 GMT -5
ok so this is what I ended up with what do yall think I put dielectric grease in the socket and cover the caps with modeling clay   |
|
|
|
Post by ozz on Dec 2, 2016 16:00:43 GMT -5
thats good jas, i knew you were frustrated, beleive me mate, if you get water in the socket from condensation you will get really frustrated, especially if something dies along with it, then you gotta strip it down and let it dry out for a week, then set it up on air again to see if it boots ok again, then set it up for the cold water going thru all the steps again to make sure it all seals right, when i change boards to do it again and make new pads for it i put the pads from the board ive done an benched with in a plastic zip sandwich bag and write what board and block they fit on it, then its there for the next time ready to go, i was gunna say to ya, ask the foam place if they have a chuck out bin and tell em you need some foam for your kids school experiments / projects, they should give it to ya, just make sure you cant blow air thru it, try pick up different thicknesses from thin to thicker, they all come in handy, because if you do delidded cpus its a whole new approach coz theres no ihs plate and on delidded, thicknesses have to be spot on because too much tension can stuff the chip, chip it or crack it, (its happened to me) , amd to me seems to be the easiest to set up coz of the simple socket design but in saying that i dont take it for granted coz its a bit more simple and less fiddle to do, i still take my time to make sure the thicknesses are right
|
|
|
|
Post by ozz on Dec 2, 2016 16:18:37 GMT -5
not too sure about that top foam pad, looks too ragged around where it fit on the block, for me it would have to be neater and a nice firmer fit, but its hard to determine without seeing the foam on the block for fit, if you get your foam right there is no need for die electric grease or vaseline in the socket, i did that once, what a pain in the arse to clean out, i used a soft bristle tooth brush and methylated spirits, then blew out with compressed air ( but not big psi pressure , that can bend pins too) took forever, and if you brush the wrong way you can bend pins as easy as anything, you can only brush the way the pins face forward and in the socket the pins face forward different ways, amd i s easy to clean cos theres no pins just holes and the pin connectors are under the plastic surround
|
|
|
|
Post by Macsbeach98 on Dec 2, 2016 17:00:56 GMT -5
Dont worry about dielectric grease in the socket as long as its sealed fairly well when the water block is on it. I dont put anything in the socket with nitrogen.
It looks good so far as long as it seals the socket from the outside air fairly good you are good.
Also just wrap a strip of tea towel around the top of your block to soak any condensation there.
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 2, 2016 21:16:42 GMT -5
Im killing some subs right now so far 2nd cpu no issues gonna run this one down and maybe move to one of the others I just got from Soctty this P4 521 freaking in the 20s crazy even with 1.6v to it lol
|
|
|
|
Post by Macsbeach98 on Dec 3, 2016 4:36:03 GMT -5
WTG Shady You are doing well.
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 3, 2016 10:55:52 GMT -5
thanks man I got 2 more Celero Ds a 321 and 331 I got 2 P4 a 641 and 650 I got 2 P DC E2160 and E2200 and 2 C2D a E4400 and E4600 I am gonna run the cellys today in the P5B and work on the P5E3 and get it setup to do chilled water gotta get this damn back plate off the CPU socket so I can put my screws through for the water block
Scratch that the 326 and 2200 are junk 2 of the ICs on the bottom of the chips fell off
s
|
|
|
|
Post by Vinster on Dec 3, 2016 11:21:06 GMT -5
if you get the e4400 over 400 fsb post up how you did it. I could never get mine above that.
Vin
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 3, 2016 11:31:38 GMT -5
I am gonna run that is the P5E3 I think I gotta get the back plate off the cpu socket its like glued on there or some this but I will post it as soon as I run it if it goes over 400 going to go out today and pick up another bag of ice before I get started this afternoon then Im gonna spend the day benching some more cpus (I got the backplate off the P5E3 Deluxe) gonna test both boards today I think
|
|
|
|
Post by Vinster on Dec 3, 2016 12:31:13 GMT -5
I was running a P5Q. And that CPU would not go over 400fsb no matter what I did. But I did get over that with another CPU so I know it wasn't the board.
Vin
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 3, 2016 14:02:51 GMT -5
Yea my C2D E6320 wont go either like that gonna try it in the P5E3
|
|
|
|
Post by Shadyreaper on Dec 3, 2016 21:33:32 GMT -5
360 fsb in my p5b and wouldn't go no more gonna try it in my p5e3 later when I first tries it it kept looping and wouldn't start
|
|
