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Post by ozz on Nov 19, 2016 22:27:56 GMT -5
i bought this off fleabay some time ago, i paid $70 for it, hooked it up ages ago and i basically had zero discharge into my res from the water block, pulled it apart, couldnt see anything wrong, so thought it was my pump/s, a danger den and a phobya dc12-400, just no discharge flow, so i thought both those pumps just werent powerful enough to push through flow slow down design limitations the block has inside it, so scotty got me a aplhacool VPP-655, 1500 LPH max, D5 variable speed and sent it to me, new 7/16 "tygon tube, fittings and hooked that up to the block, same deal, i could piss harder than the discharge coming out, so i hooked up a ApogeeGT block to try and the new pump nearly drills a hole in the opposite side of the res lol, res is 6" round pvc pipe, i have to turn it down to the 1 1/2 setting on the pump its that strong, but is a trickle out of the EK supremacy block on setting 5, pete took it home and tried it on his pump, his is a D5 pump too and he said yep she works and i havent done anything to it since it came back from his place, SO has anyone got one of these blocks and if so have you had any flow issues or problems with it, it does amd and intel, you just change the little stainless jet plate with a different width slot in it over to suit what cpu youre using, scroll down on this link and itll show a diagram of the guts in the block, personally i think its in the insert and or the insert pin is where the problem is, not the jet plates (maybe the insert pin tongue is just a bit too long and going down too far to block the flow, if some much more experienced eyes and knowledge could have a look and give their opinions id be greatful thx linustechtips.com/main/topic/629056-240mm-360mm-cpu-overheating/?page=2www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-white-edition
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 20, 2016 7:58:40 GMT -5
Only thing I can think of is you have the inlet and outlet backwards.
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 20, 2016 8:08:22 GMT -5
when the EK logo is in the bottom right hand corner the hole above it is the outlet
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Post by ozz on Nov 20, 2016 8:18:25 GMT -5
i had the discharge from the pump to the inlet in the block, the inlet port is closet to the centre of the block, its got to be in the insert and or the insert pin, the water has to be pushed through the insert and the insert pin i think directs the water to the jet plate then it goes from there to the outlet and then recycles the water through the resevoir
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 20, 2016 8:22:53 GMT -5
yea you need to make sure that pin and plate are facing the right way or it wont flow right none of the fins are bent in the plate are they I would check them too but I doubt they are if they are running a razor between them can straighten them out
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Post by ozz on Nov 20, 2016 8:36:29 GMT -5
the insert and insert pin only goes in 1 way, there are no fins bent in the plate
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 20, 2016 8:43:55 GMT -5
that is very strange you cant get it to flow
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 20, 2016 9:14:23 GMT -5
Even stranger that Pete can, and Shane has changed nothing. I'm scratching my head here.
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 20, 2016 9:24:10 GMT -5
I just looked at the ek website that thing comes with different flow plates for it I believe
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Post by ozz on Nov 20, 2016 9:28:21 GMT -5
i know its strange , i been scratchin me head for a long time over this bastard thing, im gunna pull it apart again 2morrow and have a closer look with me good glasses lol, its gotta be something there im missin, see the jet plate can go either way as it has 2 locating lugs in the middle each side, the insert and insert pin only goes in 1 way , im bettin its got a fault and the insert pin is too long and stopping the water going thru the jet plate thru the fins on the bottom plate then out the discharge
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Post by ozz on Nov 20, 2016 10:01:44 GMT -5
theres 3 jet plates, 1 for amd and 1 for intel, different thicknesses and 2 inserts, inserts and numbered 11 and 12, no 12 is for amd and lga-2011-V3, 11 is for 775,115x,1366,2011, then there the jet plates, j1, j2, j3 i cant do these pics right
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 20, 2016 16:10:04 GMT -5
Its got me too it flowed the same as mine when I put it on my loop. Actually I cant really see flow with mine I just see how it pushes the small amount of air out when I first put it on and I can see the agitation of the water in the res it was like a washing machine. The thinest jet plate will give you the best flow. Dont modify it willy nilly there is a sale for it when you get the shits with it. I like the nickel plating on it mine is the cheap model and its just copper so I have to smear vaso on it to stop corrosion when I am not using it and the countersunk screws are proud so you just cant lap it on a piece of 1200. One day will take a countersink to the screw holes on mine then the screws wont be proud.
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Post by ozz on Nov 20, 2016 17:24:05 GMT -5
just had another look in this thing, the insert will go into its recess either of 4 ways, its like a square with the corners cut off shape, not 2 as i first thought, i put the thinnest jet plate in as you said pete, put it together with a fitting in the inlet and a bit of hose on it and blew through it and air seems to come out quite freely, so im guessin water should too, ill try it and see what flow i get
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Post by Aleslammer on Nov 20, 2016 18:07:10 GMT -5
I use a 30 PSI gauge before my block and the the first block I had was a EK S775 period Supreme and would show about 5.5 of the two Koolance blocks in use now the newer comes up around 3.5 and the other is around 4.2. I looked for a 10 PSI gauge but the price went way up, 30 PSI was the lowest in a local hardware store but is a good way to make sure of flow or blockage once you have a constant. As a comparison a 14" inline filter was about 1.7, sorry for the US measurements but not sure of the metric term for PSI.
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 20, 2016 18:09:28 GMT -5
kPa 1 kPa = 0.145038 psi; 1 psi = 6.894745 kPa
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Post by ozz on Nov 20, 2016 18:17:49 GMT -5
thx guys, ales , how did you hook it up to test the pressure, i presume it would have to be inline
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Post by Aleslammer on Nov 20, 2016 21:39:27 GMT -5
I have a 1/2' tee threaded to the shut off valve on the pressure side of the pump or in line.
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Post by ozz on Nov 20, 2016 22:15:29 GMT -5
i thought it'd have to be inline, thx ales, you can run a guage on the discharge port, start it and see what pressure it gives and the pump will then cavitate coz the water cant recirculate but thats a quick test and not really accurate for the system because its straight from the pump alone, no fittings, hoses, w/blocks so theres no pipe friction like in a fitted up system which should be a bit lower psi reading than just straight out of the pump yay i fixed it, i spent hours pulling this apart and back together so many times, then it worked then it stopped again, so i looked again, its picked up a slither of clear silastic from the resevoir from the bottom where i put the SS strainer in place and its gone into the waterblock, and the insert in the water block is clear plastic, it lodged itself near the inlet in the insert then it moved and it worked, then it moved again and reduced flow, i found it stuck to the side of the insert and i couldnt see it , clear plastic and clear plastic made it hard to see, and the phobya DC12-400 pump ive got pumps it easy now , all this time for a bit of clear silastic plastic stuck in there and couldnt see it, its workin good now ill let it run for a while to see if it picks up anything else lol............heres the little sucker...and that was in it when you had it pete, it just didnt move for ya lol thx for all the help and suggestions boys
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 20, 2016 22:25:45 GMT -5
awesome man I am glad you got it up and running now EK make good water blocks with lots of diff options and if they aint just right they dont flow lol
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Post by ozz on Nov 20, 2016 22:32:52 GMT -5
awesome man I am glad you got it up and running now EK make good water blocks with lots of diff options and if they aint just right they dont flow lol well ill see shady, not gunna go fittin it now, ive got the Apogee GT block on the GIG P35-DQ6 now, ill see how that goes then try the EK on it and see what difference there is in em, i wanna make sure im not gunna pick up any more slithers of silastic or anything first
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 20, 2016 23:14:07 GMT -5
Yay you got it working. If you are going to run tests on the blocks download Realtemp and Prime95 v2.53 start realtemp in windows then start Prime 95 and let it run for 5 min and see what the max temp it gets up to for each core. Then change blocks and do the same also put a temp probe in your reservoir so you can make sure the water temp is the same for each run. You have to take as many of the variables out as you can while you do it Reading the Tcase temp in the bios is as useful as tits on a bull. The way you stick that temp probe next to the cpu isnt much better its just sitting there loose and probably wont give an accurate reading after a block change.
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Post by ozz on Nov 20, 2016 23:45:25 GMT -5
Yay you got it working. If you are going to run tests on the blocks download Realtemp and Prime95 v2.53 start realtemp in windows then start Prime 95 and let it run for 5 min and see what the max temp it gets up to for each core. Then change blocks and do the same also put a temp probe in your reservoir so you can make sure the water temp is the same for each run. You have to take as many of the variables out as you can while you do it Reading the Tcase temp in the bios is as useful as tits on a bull. The way you stick that temp probe next to the cpu isnt much better its just sitting there loose and probably wont give an accurate reading after a block change. realtemp i can do, prime95 i havent a clue, ill get ya to show me that 1 next time pete, i have a temp probe in the water, no dramas there, the probe on the cpu isnt loose, its actually on the side of the ihs plate under the clamp down top bracket, it sits in there firm, with just an ice bottle last night it was at 10c idle and 19c @1.45v and 3300mhz in windows with the E6600, benching something sure the temp will go up
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 21, 2016 6:35:12 GMT -5
Yay you got it working. If you are going to run tests on the blocks download Realtemp and Prime95 v2.53 start realtemp in windows then start Prime 95 and let it run for 5 min and see what the max temp it gets up to for each core. Then change blocks and do the same also put a temp probe in your reservoir so you can make sure the water temp is the same for each run. You have to take as many of the variables out as you can while you do it Reading the Tcase temp in the bios is as useful as tits on a bull. The way you stick that temp probe next to the cpu isnt much better its just sitting there loose and probably wont give an accurate reading after a block change. realtemp i can do, prime95 i havent a clue, ill get ya to show me that 1 next time pete, i have a temp probe in the water, no dramas there, the probe on the cpu isnt loose, its actually on the side of the ihs plate under the clamp down top bracket, it sits in there firm, with just an ice bottle last night it was at 10c idle and 19c @1.45v and 3300mhz in windows with the E6600, benching something sure the temp will go up 3300mhz not bad bro I hit 3150mhz with mine on the stock air cooler but damn them temps were high 55c idle lol I hope to be chilled water soon too those temps are pretty damn good lol
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Post by ozz on Nov 21, 2016 7:06:41 GMT -5
realtemp i can do, prime95 i havent a clue, ill get ya to show me that 1 next time pete, i have a temp probe in the water, no dramas there, the probe on the cpu isnt loose, its actually on the side of the ihs plate under the clamp down top bracket, it sits in there firm, with just an ice bottle last night it was at 10c idle and 19c @1.45v and 3300mhz in windows with the E6600, benching something sure the temp will go up 3300mhz not bad bro I hit 3150mhz with mine on the stock air cooler but damn them temps were high 55c idle lol I hope to be chilled water soon too those temps are pretty damn good lol 3276 i got with it on air, i dont fill it with ice anymore to test cpus or boards, i just use the a 1.5 litre coke bottle frozen, keep an eye on the water and cpu temps, when they get up a bit i know the ice is melting to water in the bottle so i change the bottle, if the cpu and board goes ok then i fill the res with ice and go from there, its full of ice now, and im on 3600 on 9 multi @ 1.44v now, water in the res is 1.8c and cpu is 11 c in windows, of course no load think its about to run out of steam any tick of the clock lol
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 21, 2016 8:14:03 GMT -5
That's not bad I'm sure if I had something other then stock cooler it would be better
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Post by ozz on Nov 21, 2016 9:18:50 GMT -5
That's not bad I'm sure if I had something other then stock cooler it would be better of course shady, you can only go so far on air, especially in the volt area
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 21, 2016 9:39:26 GMT -5
Oh I know as soon as I get better cooling I'll be back at it
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 1:53:59 GMT -5
finally got the evo block set up on the ep45, started out with good flow on ambient water to check its flow, then i put a frozen 1.5 ltr coke bottle in, temp came down to 10c from 24c and it dawned on me, flow rate dropped right off to half of what is was ambient, then i put ice in it , now its at 2.8c and i could piss harder. what i think is happening is as the water gets colder its viscosity gets thicker, being a block which has very thin area for flow, its not a good block for cold or ice water, it may be a cracker block for ambient water cooling but it a heap of shit for cold water , it cant get the water thru the block quick enough coz the colder it gets the thicker the viscosity, so for my needs with ice water and at times it gets to 0c i need a block like the apogee gt or me old chinese junk that ive used from the start with a wide flow area in the block... the discharge from the block isnt strong enough to flow over the ice in resevoir so the temps end up rising, and from what i see here thats the problem with it and been the problem all along with it for me, see when you had it pete it flowed good coz your water is ambient temp
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 24, 2016 2:20:35 GMT -5
Sounds like it could be the problem. I was just thinking I am sure I have got a spare 775 plate for a swiftech GTZ to which I know the screw hole spacing is identical to the Apogee so it would go on the block no problems. That will fix your putting the apogee block on any 775.
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 2:41:12 GMT -5
Sounds like it could be the problem. I was just thinking I am sure I have got a spare 775 plate for a swiftech GTZ to which I know the screw hole spacing is identical to the Apogee so it would go on the block no problems. That will fix your putting the apogee block on any 775. well pete well talk about that on the w/e but you now own a evo supremacy, countless hours pullin it apart , refittin it, tryin to find a problem in or with the block and it was and is the cold water all along, what made it dawn on me is i used ambient water b4 to test the discharge flow instead of cold like i normally do, cols water from the fridge is say 4c, then the frozen bottle so straight up its tryin to push a thicker viscosity thru it, the problem all along was limited discharge flow and using ambient water this time , the penny dropped to whats been the drama, this fucking water block cost me a brand new alphacool D5 for nothing
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