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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 24, 2016 4:07:05 GMT -5
No worries Shane I checked and I have got a spare 775 GTZ plate so work along the lines of making your foam gaskets around the size of the Apogee block.
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 4:17:48 GMT -5
No worries Shane I checked and I have got a spare 775 GTZ plate so work along the lines of making your foam gaskets around the size of the Apogee block. already done, so no need to grind the bit off the vrm heatsink then pete ?
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 24, 2016 6:36:47 GMT -5
Nope no VRM heatsink mod, the plate goes on my UD3P okay and any other 775 board it will be good. Pic of the 775 plate sitting on top of the apogee.
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 6:47:45 GMT -5
ok pete righto, bring your apogee with ya please , i'd like to compare it to the gt
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 24, 2016 6:49:25 GMT -5
It is an Apogee GT the same as your ones only I have cut the 775 holes off the plate so it fits inside the 478 plastic bracket when I run the CT479 in the 478 board.
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 7:01:40 GMT -5
It is an Apogee GT the same as your ones only I have cut the 775 holes off the plate so it fits inside the 478 plastic bracket when I run the CT479 in the 478 board. ah righto i get it now , the other plate sittin on top threw me off a bit, now i can see the table underneath where the 775 mounting holes used to be , i was looking more at the rounded edge youve ground off where it should be more pointy like the other end, i reckon it would just about fit on the ud3r like that how youve ground that pointy bit of that end
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 24, 2016 7:15:14 GMT -5
Jesus you are making my brain think now. Yes I did grind one end down to fit on the UD3P that was just after I first started benching I had completely forgotten about that.
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 7:22:01 GMT -5
Jesus you are making my brain think now. Yes I did grind one end down to fit on the UD3P that was just after I first started benching I had completely forgotten about that. thats why i asked to see it coz when i saw the end ground i said i bet cha ( to meself lol ) thatd fit my ud3r , i thought pete mustve ground it down to fit his board where it used to hit the heatsink
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 24, 2016 8:26:00 GMT -5
finally got the evo block set up on the ep45, started out with good flow on ambient water to check its flow, then i put a frozen 1.5 ltr coke bottle in, temp came down to 10c from 24c and it dawned on me, flow rate dropped right off to half of what is was ambient, then i put ice in it , now its at 2.8c and i could piss harder. what i think is happening is as the water gets colder its viscosity gets thicker, being a block which has very thin area for flow, its not a good block for cold or ice water, it may be a cracker block for ambient water cooling but it a heap of shit for cold water , it cant get the water thru the block quick enough coz the colder it gets the thicker the viscosity, so for my needs with ice water and at times it gets to 0c i need a block like the apogee gt or me old chinese junk that ive used from the start with a wide flow area in the block... the discharge from the block isnt strong enough to flow over the ice in resevoir so the temps end up rising, and from what i see here thats the problem with it and been the problem all along with it for me, see when you had it pete it flowed good coz your water is ambient temp And that is exactly why I use a cheap Koolance block on my chiller. The pin spacing is very wide so when the liquid gets thicker I still have good flow. No ice dams.
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 16:17:50 GMT -5
so youve suffered the same issues scotty and found the same as i have , water gets thicker as it gets colder , this is the block i bought originally, ive done 95% on cold water with it and its worked great, but the problem is hits some heatsinks on some boards coz the top hold down plate is quite big, also the threads in the top copper plate have given up on me due to removing the bottom copper plate so many times to clean the junk out i have been getting in the water now for a long period of time, but i got around that issue with screws in from the bottom copper plate and knurl nuts on the top of the hold down plate, i need to rethread the holes with the next size up screws, just gotta find the right screws, or buy another one the same, also on intel its no good for delidded cpus coz the bottom copper plate is 60 x60 mm and hits the outer SS casing of intels hold down bracket, you need a block to run delidded no bigger than 50 x 50 mm surface area to fit inside the outer SS bracket or you have no die contact at all with the 60 x 60 mm copper plate block, it needs the ihs plate on it to raise it above the SS to make contact have you got a pic of your koolance block scotty pleas so i can have a look please www.ebay.com.au/itm/201588489822?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=500802306882&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 24, 2016 16:23:30 GMT -5
Yes. Coolant gets slushy sometimes. I've had it stop my pumps cold before. (pardon the pun) lol.
The blocks you linked are still too restrictive when cold. Think cheaper in design.
I'l get a pic of my block for you.
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 16:30:55 GMT -5
Yes. Coolant gets slushy sometimes. I've had it stop my pumps cold before. (pardon the pun) lol. The blocks you linked are still too restrictive when cold. Think cheaper in design. I'l get a pic of my block for you. the only trouble ive had with that big block is junk in the water blocking up the bottom plate nipples ill call em, i been thinkin of grinding them out altogether, and i dont run any coolant either, after i strain the melted water i refreeze it, i cant do that with coolant in it
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 24, 2016 16:35:39 GMT -5
I do not know the model. I know they have not been made for a long time. I use this because of the wide surface spacing and because you can basically mount it to anything. All socket types and GPU's also. It works very well for chilled liquid setups.
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 16:45:41 GMT -5
I do not know the model. I know they have not been made for a long time. I use this because of the wide surface spacing and because you can basically mount it to anything. All socket types and GPU's also. It works very well for chilled liquid setups. i cant see how it mounts scotty , the pic is too big, and i dunno how to resize it, the trouble with buying a block for chilled water is most times you cant see what the inside of the block looks like, and this is where the crucial part of the block is for us guys on chilled water
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 24, 2016 16:46:03 GMT -5
I do not know the model. I know they have not been made for a long time. I use this because of the wide surface spacing and because you can basically mount it to anything. All socket types and GPU's also. It works very well for chilled liquid setups. that thing is pretty cool I seen it on some of your 775 subs
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 16:49:16 GMT -5
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 24, 2016 16:56:34 GMT -5
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 17:01:18 GMT -5
similar but looks different to me shades, scottys hose mounts dont mount from the top like that link, they mount in the side of the mount vertically but its in the V series id say like in the first link of the guy with the case rebuild
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 24, 2016 17:04:47 GMT -5
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 17:13:14 GMT -5
yep thats the one shades
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 24, 2016 17:21:04 GMT -5
Yes, except mine is now 3/8 hose instead of 1/4.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 24, 2016 17:21:58 GMT -5
There is a brand new unopened one in your box.
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Post by ozz on Nov 24, 2016 17:24:55 GMT -5
Yes, except mine is now 3/8 hose instead of 1/4. how do you mount it ?, i dont see any mount holes
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 24, 2016 17:31:42 GMT -5
I do not know the model. I know they have not been made for a long time. I use this because of the wide surface spacing and because you can basically mount it to anything. All socket types and GPU's also. It works very well for chilled liquid setups. i cant see how it mounts scotty , the pic is too big, and i dunno how to resize it, the trouble with buying a block for chilled water is most times you cant see what the inside of the block looks like, and this is where the crucial part of the block is for us guys on chilled water Mounting that it comes with is basically for socket 462/478/370 but you can get adapters for other sockets. I have a bunch. Everything else you have to fabricate or ........use a clamp. I use this with a piece of foam on the jaws. I can mount to anything.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 24, 2016 17:34:38 GMT -5
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 24, 2016 17:38:23 GMT -5
There is a brand new unopened one in your box. the V10 or H06 and my bday is monday
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 24, 2016 17:51:30 GMT -5
Shane I would just stick with the Apogee GT they have got a free flowing large wide pin spacing the flow wont slow down because of the water viscosity. You have got 2 so you can put the 775 plate on one and the AMD plate on another. And they will fit just about everything, you can even get a slotted plate for 775 / 1150-1156
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 24, 2016 17:56:23 GMT -5
There is a brand new unopened one in your box. the V10 or H06 and my bday is monday The one I quoted. V10.
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 24, 2016 17:59:14 GMT -5
Ok cool the fittings coming out the top will be easy to work with
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Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 24, 2016 17:59:51 GMT -5
Shane I would just stick with the Apogee GT they have got a free flowing large wide pin spacing the flow wont slow down because of the water viscosity. You have got 2 so you can put the 775 plate on one and the AMD plate on another. And they will fit just about everything, you can even get a slotted plate for 775 / 1150-1156 I agree. Block makes little difference when using chilled liquid. Stick with a simple flow design.
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