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Post by Bones on May 28, 2019 3:42:20 GMT -5
This has been something we've been tossing to and fro recently so why not make a thread about it I had asked myself...... So I did.
Picking up from where we left off, I do use dielectric in the RAM slots and (So far) never had a problem with it. I agree with Mac, Vaso I don't suggest unless you must use it, dielectric is fine since it's made for electronics/electrical connections. While I did pack the slots with it once all that squishes out I'll just leave it.
The protective film of it should still be there overall and will refresh it as needed only.
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Post by Vinster on May 28, 2019 13:17:42 GMT -5
my biggest reason for no vaso was the cleanup.. even if you wanted to protect the board sure. but that stuff over time gets pretty gunky. also if the board is under warranty and they find vaso on the board they'll void the warranty anyway.. so no vaso, no cleanup, yay warranty..
Vin
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Post by Bones on May 29, 2019 19:13:55 GMT -5
Went out and resprayed around the CPU socket to try and make sure nothing seeps in. That came out OK and now just letting the clear harden. It will take a couple of days for it to do so completely but once done it's gonna get tested. Wasn't bad the way it was but I prefer a little overprep than underprep. I just had to make sure it was done right and nothing got into the socket or anything else important. Will probrably fire it up either Friday or over the weekend.
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Post by Bones on May 31, 2019 23:35:44 GMT -5
Had issues with it stopping at code 32 (RAM error) during boot, took time to figure it out but got to the bottom of it. I had not completely tightened the hinge part of the CPU hold down (Got distracted with something else important going on while doing it ) and it wasn't applying enough pressure to that side of the CPU itself when the latch was down. I also took a sliver of paperbacked fine sandpaper and cleaned the CPU pin tips to be sure there was no clearcoat overspray on them causing a bad connection. After fixing all that I retested and it lives, ready 2 rumble! Will give it a subzero shakedown soon and see how it does.
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Post by Bones on Jun 12, 2019 1:56:00 GMT -5
Began work on the Sabo 2.0 for the meet and just to have it done in a more permenantly insulated setup. Instead of having to worry about it each time I won't have that bother, just check it and set it up to run. Not to mention the plastalina is messy, it does work but after awhile it can be a real PITA since it tends to creep around into places it shouldn't such as the CPU socket. Still a little remaining to remove from the board, will also have to clean off the oily residue it left behind so my sealant will stick and go from there. That's next up and something Dawn can take care of. Let it dry out for about a week or two then move onto the next part of it.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 12, 2019 8:57:17 GMT -5
I like your little hammer Rodney I have one identical.
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Post by Vinster on Jun 12, 2019 11:09:42 GMT -5
the name of that PSU and the size of your hammer don't match.... is that one of those "it's not the size but how you use it" comment...
Vin
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 12, 2019 15:55:34 GMT -5
the name of that PSU and the size of your hammer don't match.... is that one of those "it's not the size but how you use it" comment... Vin Don't kid yourself......size matters.
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Post by Bones on Jun 12, 2019 17:06:47 GMT -5
It's all in how you swing it.
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Post by Vinster on Jun 12, 2019 20:39:12 GMT -5
the name of that PSU and the size of your hammer don't match.... is that one of those "it's not the size but how you use it" comment... Vin Don't kid yourself......size matters. I know...
Vin
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Post by Vinster on Jun 12, 2019 20:39:35 GMT -5
It's all in how you swing it. you gotta know how too first.. lol
Vin
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Post by Bones on Jun 13, 2019 16:39:21 GMT -5
It's all in how you swing it. you gotta know how too first.. lol
Vin
Either you got it or you don't. Don't mean a thing if you ain't got that swing.
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Post by Bones on Jun 14, 2019 21:50:36 GMT -5
Next step.....
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Post by Vinster on Jun 14, 2019 22:01:01 GMT -5
can you explain the reason for it being in a dishwasher? that's a new one for me... and I've seen a dishwasher full of lady toys after an adult party and that didn't even make me raise an eye-brow... but this did Vin
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Post by Bones on Jun 14, 2019 22:29:00 GMT -5
Hot water with sprayjets and some Cascade with Dawn does wonders for a board. The first round removed alot of it and it's currently going for a second spin. Won't hurt a thing as long as I allow it to dry completely afterwards, at least a week, maybe two before I apply power to it again. Sitting out in the benchshack will provide a good drying enviroment for it this time of year here.
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Post by zila1 on Jun 14, 2019 22:38:52 GMT -5
can you explain the reason for it being in a dishwasher? that's a new one for me... and I've seen a dishwasher full of lady toys after an adult party and that didn't even make me raise an eye-brow... but this did Vin ROFLMAO...…...
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Post by Bones on Jun 14, 2019 22:50:53 GMT -5
I refuse to wonder what else he does with a dishwasher......
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Post by Vinster on Jun 15, 2019 0:03:07 GMT -5
I refuse to wonder what else he does with a dishwasher...... mine is for dishes only... I was at a party and woke up during the clean up in the AM. Safe to say I didn't eat breakfast there and was then relieved of the use of solo cups and dollar/single use bowls for the treats
Vin
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Post by WhiteWulfe on Jun 26, 2019 19:27:56 GMT -5
I refuse to wonder what else he does with a dishwasher...... mine is for dishes only... I was at a party and woke up during the clean up in the AM. Safe to say I didn't eat breakfast there and was then relieved of the use of solo cups and dollar/single use bowls for the treats
Vin
I suspect it's along a similar line of thinking what some playfully call "dildo soup". The hot water and steam in a dishwasher would probably allow for cleaning of things, but more importantly, sterilization, although I'd question it's effectiveness for such. Dildo soup is a lot faster though, but most generally have a dedicated colander for such as a "just in case". Only works on non-porous sex toys that can handle head and don't have any extras though, such as ones made of platinum cured silicon. Bring water to a boil, boil for ten minutes... Boom, sterilized toys. Pre-washing the toys with soap is generally recommended for such, but the boiling allows for anything left over to go buh bai, especially in nooks and crannies.
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Post by Bones on Jul 21, 2019 0:46:37 GMT -5
Been awhile since I last posted here. Moving on with prep for the meet, I may have figured out a partial solution to the somewhat limited use of my T-Rex pot. With this at least there will be a few more boards I could use it with....If it works at all. More later as things develop.
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Post by Bones on Jul 21, 2019 15:51:41 GMT -5
The Sabo is ready, got the back done this morning and now it's ready for anything. One more to do and I'm done - Probrably the Ultra D I've been working on so I can try one of my good 148's in it, ran on LN2.
These behave as if they don't have a CB/CBB so I'll give one a shot and see how it goes.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jul 21, 2019 17:44:03 GMT -5
How long to go before this is on I am looking forward to seeing your results. One thing you will will have plenty of very knowledgeable fellas to help you.
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Post by Bones on Jul 21, 2019 23:14:39 GMT -5
The benching itself will go on for two days (Fri-Sat) and some of the guys had mentioned about possibly doing a live stream/feed of it, definitely will have some video of what happens. The signup thread at the bot has the dates and such you'd need to know for when it's happening.
I will be paying close attention Mac - Gonna watch the experienced guys at first, then set one up and hammer down!
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Post by Bones on Jul 24, 2019 8:58:20 GMT -5
Here's a shot of the current work on the T-Rex, once I get it all done I will test it and make sure there are no leaks. I'll use water to see if I have any seepage past the O-ring, should seal if it's going to at all. If it will hold water, it should hold acetone too. Will also depend on if the tabs I made will bend easily or hold their form - Hopefully they will hold well enough. Will also look at the tabs in relation to the mounting holes of the pot itself just in case, the thing here is to run it with DICE or even LN2 on sockets/boards the pot can sit on properly but can't actually mount up to in relation to the hole pattern of a given socket. The pot is more than heavy enough to have sufficient downward pressure on a CPU, it's just a huge slug of copper you know. More work to do so I'm on it.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jul 24, 2019 17:27:29 GMT -5
What are you doing here Rodney it wont leak you are not filling it up to the top with acetone only half an inch in the bottom then put dry ice in. I never had a problem with leakage with the Dragon F1 and the extension tube with dry ice and I have had it foaming up to the top of the tube no o ring at all.
Its going to be an experience with nitrogen it doesnt even want to touch the wall of the pot it even looks like its holding it self off the wall by a thou or so It will bubble and boil off slowly below 160c then all of a sudden the pot will be cold enough to make full contact with with the nitrogen and it will boil off furiously and the temp will drop super quick to 180c 190c and then it will just simmer in there.
What are you going to wrap it in? With the Dragon you get a round tube of closed cell foam long enough to make 2 tubes for it I am still using the original.
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Post by Bones on Jul 24, 2019 22:02:48 GMT -5
Making sure the pot stays together while in use, that being the biggest concern I have. Yes, it was to keep any acetone from seeping out while it's "Boiling" and possibly hurting the board. Already know there is no way you can fill it to the top with acetone - Doesn't work that way. However you say it shoudn't have an issue with that, good to know. It didn't come with any wrap so I'll have to see about what to use.
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Post by Bones on Jul 26, 2019 3:09:34 GMT -5
OK - Prep on the X570 has started, shots of right before and after spraying with clearcoat shown. Will have to check and probrably apply another coat but believe the coat I have on it now will do from how it looks ATM. After that I'll have to coat the backside of it, much easier to do and not mess anything up. Then test and make sure it's still working, no reason to believe it won't work.
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Post by Bones on Jul 30, 2019 17:09:28 GMT -5
Testing the Sabo for points.... Subbed a SuperPI run in the benchmate comp, took what is currently 2nd as of this post with a crap chip.
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Post by Bones on Aug 12, 2019 18:32:13 GMT -5
Started prep on the Apex this morning, need to reshoot it one more time and then do the back. I'll do that later this evening with the front, then do the back once that has time to set. Most likely it will be tomorrow morning when the back gets done. EDIT: The front came out rather well with nothing in the CPU socket or anything else except for one of the PSU 8 pin plugs, a little got in from the tape coming up as I was shooting it this morning but that's an easy fix. Went ahead about an hour ago and did the back and that so far looks excellent - Great coverage with no spots the clearcoat didn't want to adhere to. If it looks good enough in the morning I'll call it done and reassemble the board for testing. Apply dielectric in the VRM area to ensure it's sealed, at the chipset too and remount the heatsinks once done with the dielectric. This way I'll know it's sealed and ready for whatever.
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Post by osmiumoc on Dec 27, 2019 10:29:55 GMT -5
Useful thread, I´m now approaching my first sub-ambient runs and currently I´m thinking a lot about how I want to prep the board. The pot already came with some insulation material for it, and it will be wrapped in towel on top so no worries there. Just the board, for starters I´m going with some cheap old hardware so no warranty. Is there any benefit from using vaso in terms of safety? Anything to look out for when using plasti-dip? I´ve ordered a bunch of material and will test what works best for me.
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