Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 7, 2018 21:58:30 GMT -5
Soldered De-lid list
Ryzen 7 2700x Working
Ryzen 3 1200 Working
FX-4100 De-lidded not working
FX-4300 De-lidded working
FX-6100 De-Lidded Working
FX-9590 De-lidded Killed x1
FX-9590 De-lidded Working
FX-8320 De-lidded working
B73 x3 De-lidded working
Athon 5000+ unlocker FX-5000
970T De-lidded for a customer Working
1090T De-lidded Working
965BE De-lidded working
940BE De-lidded working
9850BE De-lidded working
9950BE De-lidded working
6400+ De-lidded working
6400+ delidded working
No solder de-lids -
Ryzen Athlon 200GE with Vega Graphics
Athlon 6000+ Windsor
Athlon 4400+ Brisbane
Athlon 4200+ Brisbane
Sempron LE-1100
Opteron 146 Venus
Opteron 165 Denmark
Athlon 3400+ Venice
FX BullDozer Llano (Bobcat) and Phenom (Agena) and Phenom II (Deneb) Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS Plate) Soldered Removal Guide. This is recommended for Liquid Cooled (or better)PC's Only! Warning! High Temperatures. You may burn yourself. No Person But yourself is responsible for damage or cpu life decrease.
Step one. Gather tools needed to complete the task.
1. Razors
2. Cpu
3. Mini torch
4. Toilet Paper
5. Wet sanding paper
6. Athlon Heat Sink
7. A Fan
8. Camera
9. Grounding wire (You must be grounded or insulated from static)
10. Knowledge of De-lidding Athlons that aren't soldered. (Very important) --I'll explain later..
Step 2. Clean the Cpu and take a pic. The information lies there. It sometimes get's damaged by heat and then becomes no longer legible.
Step 3. This is where your previous knowledge comes in handy. Using your razor, you make the incision into the Silicone where the IHS plate is glued to the board. Make several passes carefully until the blade slides easily all the way around. The Athlon A64 Cpu's (low end) without solder will end at this step. After you've made a few careful passes, the IHS plate will pop right off.
Step 4. Warning Hot Place the Cpu pins down on your Athlon Heat Sink. This is to draw the heat off of the pins as quicky as possible. The pins are soldered on as well and can fall off. Put two razors on either side of the IHS plate where you've made incisions. This will tell you when the solder has broken free and will allow you to flip the IHS plate off.
Time for Heating the IHS plate to melt the solder which holds the IHS plate to the Silicone that is placed Over the Insulator (SOI). The Silicone is not very delicate. It'll hold up to the heat no problem. It has a higher melting point than the solder.
Gently lower the torch while lit on a Medium Low Flame. Over heating would be bad. You then loose control and then possibly loose pins. Heat the IHS plate a little at a time. Be careful not to burn your self. It can be tricky wanting to grab the cpu. Don't worry you'll remember quickly if you do touch it.
As the heat builds you'll smell the solder starting to heat up. As soon as you see a Razor move, the Bond is broken. Quickly set the torch down and grab hold of the razors. Keep in mind they are hot. Gently twist them like a key away from you towards the wall. As the IHS plate comes up, start blowing softly into the space between the IHS plate and the SOI. This will cool the solder so that you can safely just flip the lid off. My suggestion is to ware a pair of thin cloth gloves for grabbing the Razors. They Will be very hot.
Step 5. Cooling and Lapping 101.
Get the fan on it fast. Cool the cpu quickly back to a room temperature. You don't need to stick it in a freezer or anything, it'll be fine with the heatsink under it. When the cpu is cool, use the little pin cover foam from the cpu box and cover the pins. Use your thumbnail to gently scrape the solder down as far as you can. Be careful not to bend pins or chip any of the little chips around the SOI.
Lap it! Same thing as doing the IHS plate it'self, just smaller. Do the figure 8 motion with a very high grain paper. 1500 at the least amount of grit. This process will remove the remaining solder from the Silicone. When you have completed the lapping, check for the bent pins and straighten them. Then apply the Thermal paste nice and thin. I used a Razor this time around instead of a gaudy credit card.
Step 6. Turn the PC on and Cross your fingers. Both Phenom's that I've De-lidded booted and run. So far I'm 2-0. You should notice a very nice temp decrease at load as well as idle. Why spread that much heat with the IHS plate, when you can remove it faster?
I hope this Tutorial helps guide you to a safe IHS plate removal.
This thread is moved from another forum on which date I had originally created it.12-03-2009
Will be posting some pictures.
Ryzen 7 2700x Working
Ryzen 3 1200 Working
FX-4100 De-lidded not working
FX-4300 De-lidded working
FX-6100 De-Lidded Working
FX-9590 De-lidded Killed x1
FX-9590 De-lidded Working
FX-8320 De-lidded working
B73 x3 De-lidded working
Athon 5000+ unlocker FX-5000
970T De-lidded for a customer Working
1090T De-lidded Working
965BE De-lidded working
940BE De-lidded working
9850BE De-lidded working
9950BE De-lidded working
6400+ De-lidded working
6400+ delidded working
No solder de-lids -
Ryzen Athlon 200GE with Vega Graphics
Athlon 6000+ Windsor
Athlon 4400+ Brisbane
Athlon 4200+ Brisbane
Sempron LE-1100
Opteron 146 Venus
Opteron 165 Denmark
Athlon 3400+ Venice
FX BullDozer Llano (Bobcat) and Phenom (Agena) and Phenom II (Deneb) Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS Plate) Soldered Removal Guide. This is recommended for Liquid Cooled (or better)PC's Only! Warning! High Temperatures. You may burn yourself. No Person But yourself is responsible for damage or cpu life decrease.
Step one. Gather tools needed to complete the task.
1. Razors
2. Cpu
3. Mini torch
4. Toilet Paper
5. Wet sanding paper
6. Athlon Heat Sink
7. A Fan
8. Camera
9. Grounding wire (You must be grounded or insulated from static)
10. Knowledge of De-lidding Athlons that aren't soldered. (Very important) --I'll explain later..
Step 2. Clean the Cpu and take a pic. The information lies there. It sometimes get's damaged by heat and then becomes no longer legible.
Step 3. This is where your previous knowledge comes in handy. Using your razor, you make the incision into the Silicone where the IHS plate is glued to the board. Make several passes carefully until the blade slides easily all the way around. The Athlon A64 Cpu's (low end) without solder will end at this step. After you've made a few careful passes, the IHS plate will pop right off.
Step 4. Warning Hot Place the Cpu pins down on your Athlon Heat Sink. This is to draw the heat off of the pins as quicky as possible. The pins are soldered on as well and can fall off. Put two razors on either side of the IHS plate where you've made incisions. This will tell you when the solder has broken free and will allow you to flip the IHS plate off.
Time for Heating the IHS plate to melt the solder which holds the IHS plate to the Silicone that is placed Over the Insulator (SOI). The Silicone is not very delicate. It'll hold up to the heat no problem. It has a higher melting point than the solder.
Gently lower the torch while lit on a Medium Low Flame. Over heating would be bad. You then loose control and then possibly loose pins. Heat the IHS plate a little at a time. Be careful not to burn your self. It can be tricky wanting to grab the cpu. Don't worry you'll remember quickly if you do touch it.
As the heat builds you'll smell the solder starting to heat up. As soon as you see a Razor move, the Bond is broken. Quickly set the torch down and grab hold of the razors. Keep in mind they are hot. Gently twist them like a key away from you towards the wall. As the IHS plate comes up, start blowing softly into the space between the IHS plate and the SOI. This will cool the solder so that you can safely just flip the lid off. My suggestion is to ware a pair of thin cloth gloves for grabbing the Razors. They Will be very hot.
Step 5. Cooling and Lapping 101.
Get the fan on it fast. Cool the cpu quickly back to a room temperature. You don't need to stick it in a freezer or anything, it'll be fine with the heatsink under it. When the cpu is cool, use the little pin cover foam from the cpu box and cover the pins. Use your thumbnail to gently scrape the solder down as far as you can. Be careful not to bend pins or chip any of the little chips around the SOI.
Lap it! Same thing as doing the IHS plate it'self, just smaller. Do the figure 8 motion with a very high grain paper. 1500 at the least amount of grit. This process will remove the remaining solder from the Silicone. When you have completed the lapping, check for the bent pins and straighten them. Then apply the Thermal paste nice and thin. I used a Razor this time around instead of a gaudy credit card.
Step 6. Turn the PC on and Cross your fingers. Both Phenom's that I've De-lidded booted and run. So far I'm 2-0. You should notice a very nice temp decrease at load as well as idle. Why spread that much heat with the IHS plate, when you can remove it faster?
I hope this Tutorial helps guide you to a safe IHS plate removal.
This thread is moved from another forum on which date I had originally created it.12-03-2009
Will be posting some pictures.