Post by Macsbeach98 on May 12, 2018 0:57:06 GMT -5
This a quick general guide I just put together showing what is required in attaching a epower.
The card we are using here is a Galaxy Razor GTX260-216 it is a single slot cooling solution.
The first thing I do is disconnect the Powergood signal from the original VRM controller if not disconnected it signals the card bios that the VRM isnt working and the card wont start.
It is usually just a case of looking up the data sheet and cutting the track from the power good pin. But the track I thought it was was the one next to it.
So I just took the lazy way and used a bit of Kapton tape and the heatgun and removed the whole controller either way works on 90% of cards.
The next thing to do is remove the chokes and on this card the caps as well otherwise I cant get the iron down beside the chokes.
The bottom Choke and 2 caps are for the memory VRM so they will be staying on the card.
For the job we wont be using our normal pencil iron we will be using a cheap 80 watt iron.
Caps and Chokes removed and cleaned up lookin Good.
I also measure the resistance between the power plane and Ground at this time it was 1.8 ohm
Now we take a small sanding roll on a Dremel and sand the screen mask off where we are going to solder to the card the power plane i just run up where the output of the original chokes were I have also sanded a spot on the back of the card for an extra ground enough ground can be hard to find on some cards.
Its time to solder the original caps back on the back or the card, they came off easily and are still in perfect condition.
I also done a Vmem mod at the same time.
Its attachment time I am using 1mm copper plate to attach the epower to the card you can also see the trimmer on the epower I love these Gen 4 epowers they have a Chil controller and respond well to trimmer mods they also have Dil switches to which I set the boot voltage and just use the trimmer for the final voltage its a lot easier than buggerising around with a evbot.
First I start off by cutting the pieces for the power plane and soldering them to the epower I prefer to use 2 pieces than 1 long one makes it easier to get off later.
The one thing to remember that the more connection area that you have got the better its 400 amp capable.
Then we solder it to the card I use flux for all the soldering makes it take so much easier.
Onto the grounds now I hope its enough ground I am using the 2 shown in the pic where I took the silk screen off and one on the back.
After the grounds are done I remeasure the resistance between the power plane and ground it was about 1.4 ohm so there are no shorts all should be good so i will get the board setup and a waterblock on the card and do some testing tommorow.
Thats about all there is too it.
The card we are using here is a Galaxy Razor GTX260-216 it is a single slot cooling solution.
The first thing I do is disconnect the Powergood signal from the original VRM controller if not disconnected it signals the card bios that the VRM isnt working and the card wont start.
It is usually just a case of looking up the data sheet and cutting the track from the power good pin. But the track I thought it was was the one next to it.
So I just took the lazy way and used a bit of Kapton tape and the heatgun and removed the whole controller either way works on 90% of cards.
The next thing to do is remove the chokes and on this card the caps as well otherwise I cant get the iron down beside the chokes.
The bottom Choke and 2 caps are for the memory VRM so they will be staying on the card.
For the job we wont be using our normal pencil iron we will be using a cheap 80 watt iron.
Caps and Chokes removed and cleaned up lookin Good.
I also measure the resistance between the power plane and Ground at this time it was 1.8 ohm
Now we take a small sanding roll on a Dremel and sand the screen mask off where we are going to solder to the card the power plane i just run up where the output of the original chokes were I have also sanded a spot on the back of the card for an extra ground enough ground can be hard to find on some cards.
Its time to solder the original caps back on the back or the card, they came off easily and are still in perfect condition.
I also done a Vmem mod at the same time.
Its attachment time I am using 1mm copper plate to attach the epower to the card you can also see the trimmer on the epower I love these Gen 4 epowers they have a Chil controller and respond well to trimmer mods they also have Dil switches to which I set the boot voltage and just use the trimmer for the final voltage its a lot easier than buggerising around with a evbot.
First I start off by cutting the pieces for the power plane and soldering them to the epower I prefer to use 2 pieces than 1 long one makes it easier to get off later.
The one thing to remember that the more connection area that you have got the better its 400 amp capable.
Then we solder it to the card I use flux for all the soldering makes it take so much easier.
Onto the grounds now I hope its enough ground I am using the 2 shown in the pic where I took the silk screen off and one on the back.
After the grounds are done I remeasure the resistance between the power plane and ground it was about 1.4 ohm so there are no shorts all should be good so i will get the board setup and a waterblock on the card and do some testing tommorow.
Thats about all there is too it.
