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Post by ozz on Jun 2, 2018 22:07:30 GMT -5
well if thats the case then youre gunna need the axle ring spacer behind the rim on the axle as i said earlier, or grind or machine off the same off the nut so as it doesnt bottom out on the hub so it can tighten up properly i thought i saw it right from the start when i saw the pic and the washers behind the wheel nuts, never mind all it is is the length of the boss is a bit long, fix that then problem fixed
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 3, 2018 0:02:41 GMT -5
The exact suggestion my old man came up with.. ^^
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Post by ozz on Jun 3, 2018 0:08:54 GMT -5
we all been around the game a long time shrimpy, whatever works safest,easiest and most simple to do is the best way
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 3, 2018 1:00:47 GMT -5
True that. What about left handed threads on the driver's side? I should get some huh?
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Post by ozz on Jun 3, 2018 1:20:53 GMT -5
True that. What about left handed threads on the driver's side? I should get some huh? dont test me shrimp, left hand thread is designed to keep tightened, the rotation, a clockwise motion same as right hand thread is, same as left hand side, think of left hand thread, do a wheelie, whats it gunna do ? keep tightened right? rh thread same yes? force of motion mate !!!
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 3, 2018 2:18:41 GMT -5
Not testing. Just making sure good decisions. Seems welding the differential doesn't come without consequences...
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 3, 2018 9:55:32 GMT -5
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 3, 2018 10:33:05 GMT -5
I could easily make those. But the ones you show are only 25 bucks. Ah decisions decisions... lol.
Going to see if I can find shorter shanks first. Gonna try and stay light.
I'm running Aluminum brake drums ya know...
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Post by ozz on Jun 4, 2018 1:01:37 GMT -5
they are aluminium spacers shrimpy, easier and quicker than stuffing around grinding or machining
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 4, 2018 16:56:39 GMT -5
I like stuffing around though Ozz. you should know that. I've only used 1 store bought LN2 pot and it was given to me to use. I gave it back. My GPU pot is hand crafted. My Dice pots are hand crafted. Just one of the things I like to do Found the ones that are shorter. Pricing is about the same as the spacers. Going to go with Left handed threading also. Just like you said. Might as well do it right. Since I have over stock tires on the vehicle, spacing the rims out may not be a good option. The tires are close to that wheel well already.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 4, 2018 17:06:29 GMT -5
Tub it.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 4, 2018 17:44:21 GMT -5
Wish I could wish I could. Win the lotto and send me a lot of money.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 4, 2018 17:52:55 GMT -5
What does left handed threading do stop idiots from knocking the wheels off. Sounds like a gimmick to me its not like the wheel has a single large nut in the centre locking it onto the axle with a taper or such.
I would be more worried about the flogged holes in the wheels themselves thats a stud breaker.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 4, 2018 18:08:23 GMT -5
It's a weld diff. There's a lot of rotating stress there. The problem is a heavy foot and the design.
I see left handed threads on Tractors all the time. Mitsubishi uses them, GM uses them and in Racing used as well.
The rounded holes are an issue. I'll need rims in short time I'm sure.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 4, 2018 18:18:17 GMT -5
I see left handed threads on Tractors all the time. Mitsubishi uses them, GM uses them and in Racing used as well. Izuzu and Iveco trucks also. Have a few at work. Story: Kid that works in the shop, entry level, calls me over and says " I can't get these lugs loose. Can I heat them?" I pushed reverse on his gun and said "try now". They came right off. He just looked at me stupid.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 4, 2018 18:21:36 GMT -5
Are they left handed all round or just on one side?
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 4, 2018 18:23:50 GMT -5
The trucks are just one side.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 4, 2018 19:26:31 GMT -5
Usually the drivers side.
EDIT:
Left side. We drive on the left.... shrugs
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Post by Bones on Jun 4, 2018 19:45:06 GMT -5
I know older Chrysler's had them too. Can't say about the newer ones since I've never been around one of those.
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Post by ozz on Jun 4, 2018 23:51:26 GMT -5
I like stuffing around though Ozz. you should know that. I've only used 1 store bought LN2 pot and it was given to me to use. I gave it back. My GPU pot is hand crafted. My Dice pots are hand crafted. Just one of the things I like to do Found the ones that are shorter. Pricing is about the same as the spacers. Going to go with Left handed threading also. Just like you said. Might as well do it right. Since I have over stock tires on the vehicle, spacing the rims out may not be a good option. The tires are close to that wheel well already. we used to roll the guards out a bit with a piece of water pipe if the tyres touch then when cornering, a length of pipe, a bar or a piece of round hardwood thats bigger than the gap between the guard, wheel well , put the pipe on the tyre between the guard then reverse and forward the car a few times on each wheel to stretch the guard out a little to clear the tyres more, of course depends on how strong/thick the metal is in the guard too but it worked and didnt chip or crack the pain if you take it nice n slow, the round on and angle down towards the ground and hand held pressure on it guiding it and pipe rolls with the tyre and flares the guard a little , then if you its got more in the guard you get a bigger diameter pipe and go again to get a little more flare
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 5, 2018 16:49:24 GMT -5
That's a neat trick Ozz. I could not use it while the car is pretty rusty on them body panels. The Entire left side of the truck sat against a barn wall and the moisture ate a lot of the metal through the years. The Door (not the skin) but the entire door needs to be replaced. Rear quarter is shot beyond repair. You can see the frame rail.....
In reality I need another 81' with a better body. Quick motor swap and be done with it.
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Post by ozz on Jun 5, 2018 18:21:31 GMT -5
That's a neat trick Ozz. I could not use it while the car is pretty rusty on them body panels. The Entire left side of the truck sat against a barn wall and the moisture ate a lot of the metal through the years. The Door (not the skin) but the entire door needs to be replaced. Rear quarter is shot beyond repair. You can see the frame rail..... In reality I need another 81' with a better body. Quick motor swap and be done with it. well back then the cars were made of 16 gauge steel, or 1/16th, i think, and you had something to work with in strength, now days the metal is like bloody paper, you can dent it with your knuckle if you push hard enough so i reckon it could crease easily on todays vehicles but yours being an 81, id say the metal would be pretty good and tough, but its a good trick and works, of course the wheel well shape dictates a lot , larger overall length of the wheel arch is better, shorter its harder to flare
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 14, 2018 17:22:04 GMT -5
Huge bummer today. Had a service call for a wheel off just a few miles away from the shop. The kid put tires on and rotated but the left front wheels on the drive axles where left loose. It's such a bummer seeing a guy get a couple days off (suspended) for such a thing. However it's super dangerous to other motorists on the road and SO super lucky no oncoming traffic. No injuries and no real damages.
I always try to take the time to torque the lug nuts especially on the steer axle.
My buddy was on the verge of tears with self disappointment and worry for his continued employment. That's when you know a guy really cares.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 14, 2018 17:41:54 GMT -5
Huge bummer today. Had a service call for a wheel off just a few miles away from the shop. The kid put tires on and rotated but the left front wheels on the drive axles where left loose. It's such a bummer seeing a guy get a couple days off (suspended) for such a thing. However it's super dangerous to other motorists on the road and SO super lucky no oncoming traffic. No injuries and no real damages. I always try to take the time to torque the lug nuts especially on the steer axle. My buddy was on the verge of tears with self disappointment and worry for his continued employment. That's when you know a guy really cares. Been there. I'm on overload again. Finally found another heavy wrench, and a shop bitch. 2 months later had to fire the new heavy guy. Stealing time. So it's just me on heavy's again.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 14, 2018 18:27:35 GMT -5
Brutal. We are still a couple guys short, but keeping up with the work for the most part. Out of 75 tractors, including 7 straight trucks, we've only had 2 to 3 down for any major repairs.
Just got done installing an SCR on one of the straight trucks with a successful regen. Pain in the butt to diagnose them Cummins after-treatment issues.
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Post by Bones on Jun 14, 2018 19:03:44 GMT -5
Always hated coming in behind someone else's job before they finished it - I'd never know what I'd find or have to deal with. I know once I had to come in and re-rebuild an engine a guy had started work on, then they just stopped working on it and quit, eventually got that passed along to me. Thing about it was I was told "He's already done some of the work" and I knew better than to just take for granted it was right. He partially completed the bottom and I had to go back through it and recheck everything, found a few goofs too. In fact I had to tear it all back down and basically start over again from scratch which was probrably the best thing I could have done in this case.
At least I got it back together and running but talk about a headache.....
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 14, 2018 23:13:28 GMT -5
Right now I'm building Tire stands for the forklifts we work on. For a fraction of the cost. One is already nearly complete. I'll take pictures once I'm done with it and plan to make 3 more just like it. The mechanic that works on them currently uses multiple blocks of wood. It's super dangerous while these things weigh as much as a car in a quarter of the size. Any how, it kind of looks like this. angle iron is in all 4 corners from top to bottom. Steel is 3/16 inch thick plating. The stands are 10" tall.
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Post by Bones on Jun 15, 2018 0:24:34 GMT -5
Right now I'm building Tire stands for the forklifts we work on. For a fraction of the cost. One is already nearly complete. I'll take pictures once I'm done with it and plan to make 3 more just like it. The mechanic that works on them currently uses multiple blocks of wood. It's super dangerous while these things weigh as much as a car in a quarter of the size. Any how, it kind of looks like this. angle iron is in all 4 corners from top to bottom. Steel is 3/16 inch thick plating. The stands are 10" tall. We used to have stands made from I-beams and large, thick walled tubing with wide, thick bases for that. I used to work for an actual forklift dealer(s) (Nissan and Clark) in the field and shop plus did that kind of work in a few warehouses over the years too in addition to warehouse maintenance/conveyor stuff. One thing we learned is simple - If it's up on stands, NEVER pull the engine without supporting the transmission/holding it in place. If you take out the last bolt, then the transmission suddenly flops down/swings down, guess what the entire lift's gonna do while it's up on the stands.... With you under it? And I know you already know yourself NEVER remove the tilt cylinder pins without securing the top of the mast - AND you make sure no one is in front of or passes by the front of the forklift when the pins are removed. We came close to getting someone pancaked one night (I wasn't there, it was another guy doing the work) when the pins were removed and he didn't secure the mast because he was new at working on lifts. Long story short, the cleaning ladies had just passed by the front of the lift when he knocked the last pin out..... U know the rest. That's not all I could tell you about from my times working on them. TIP: On the larger Nissan 80 and 90 series diesel lifts and probrably some a little smaller if it ever runs out of fuel and after that won't start even if the thing is primed up again, check the fuses. I know the now older Nissans like that had a tendency to blow one of the fuses in it's panel - Wasn't supposed to do that but they did. And I could take an also now older Nissan 30 J series electric and run you insane with one concerning a problem that in reality doesn't exist..... Yet it does. It's the dreaded Code 19 of that lift series and if you don't know about it, prepare for insanity - If you do it's butt-simple to fix.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 15, 2018 12:48:34 GMT -5
Oh I don't work on fork trucks Rod. I play dumb as possible. But I will be sure to pass along pointers. Don't get me wrong, I know how.... Just don't want to.
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Post by Bones on Jun 15, 2018 17:16:14 GMT -5
I getcha on that. In truth they're easier in many ways than what you do but it's also what you're used to working on that makes it what it is to you. I could do any of it and be OK if I were still in good shape to do it - I'd prefer to work on the equipment, not motor vehicles for the road myself.
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