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Post by Vinster on May 11, 2016 9:06:52 GMT -5
So a while back the threaded area of this Thermaltake CPU block cracked in a whole load of places... (you can see it from the pic) I doubt I'd be able to cut a new piece of acrylic and thread it without cracking that. Thinking of a 1/4" steel plate [maybe thinner], but this thing is already pretty heavy.  Any suggestions? Vin |
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Post by mistone on May 11, 2016 12:25:00 GMT -5
aluminum plate, if you can do it, would be much better. non-corrosive and lighter
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Post by Mr.Scott on May 11, 2016 16:54:33 GMT -5
mmmmmm.....if I were going to mix metals, I would rather have the steel than aluminum. Stainless might be nice.
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Post by Vinster on May 11, 2016 16:57:24 GMT -5
aluminum plate, if you can do it, would be much better. non-corrosive and lighter I was thinking that, but I'll have to coat the aluminum to help prevent the copper from corroding. I've not been having any luck with finding a piece of copper bar. Stainless is too hard to work with... Vin |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on May 11, 2016 17:00:57 GMT -5
Aluminium and copper dont mix its the reason newer cars dont have copper radiators because they have aluminium heads its not because its cheaper.
Steel would be the choice when Shrimp see's this I am sure he might have some advice.
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Post by ozz on May 11, 2016 20:46:18 GMT -5
hey pete, what about that stuff (the hard plastic ) you made the new hold down from for your kingpin pot, that should make a good cpu block plate or is it too thick ?
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Post by ozz on May 11, 2016 20:50:54 GMT -5
So a while back the threaded area of this Thermaltake CPU block cracked in a whole load of places... (you can see it from the pic) I doubt I'd be able to cut a new piece of acrylic and thread it without cracking that. Thinking of a 1/4" steel plate [maybe thinner], but this thing is already pretty heavy. Any suggestions? Vin were you using metal fittings vin ?, did they have a tapered thread that cracked the acrylic when tightened, personally i like to use plastic barb fittings, ive found they have more give and dont put the same stress factor on the threads when tightened |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on May 11, 2016 23:01:11 GMT -5
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Post by Vinster on May 12, 2016 9:49:59 GMT -5
So a while back the threaded area of this Thermaltake CPU block cracked in a whole load of places... (you can see it from the pic) I doubt I'd be able to cut a new piece of acrylic and thread it without cracking that. Thinking of a 1/4" steel plate [maybe thinner], but this thing is already pretty heavy. Any suggestions? Vin were you using metal fittings vin ?, did they have a tapered thread that cracked the acrylic when tightened, personally i like to use plastic barb fittings, i've found they have more give and dont put the same stress factor on the threads when tightened No, they were proper G1/4" metal fittings, and the ones I have had a rubber 'O' ring. I figure swapping the fittings a few times and the block being old before I got it just couldn't take it. I have a rubber coating spray I was going to try first. and see how that fares in the garage. I'm hoping to use this block for benching the new x58 xeon's I have coming my way. and the white plastic is nylon and that's a great idea Shane. light, easy to work with and I have a plastics shop around the corner that I could probably get a scrap piece for change... thanks Vin |
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Post by Vinster on May 13, 2016 10:13:36 GMT -5
yeah but vinnie i got banned remember and because of that i can only see certain areas, doesnt matter anyway, and the nylon will work like a beauty i reckon, the only thing i think will be the screw length difference for the nylon to attach to the actual water block, but that shouldnt be hard to get around Nylon is available in a slew of thicknesses. I'm thinking 1/2" will work good. The clear acrylic there now is about ~3/8". Nylon can flex a little, so going a touch thicker won't hurt anything. Vin |
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Post by ozz on May 13, 2016 21:29:40 GMT -5
1/2 " will be cool vinnie, and the beauty of the nylon is not only is it tough and easy to work with, you can drill all the holes to suit different platforms easily to use the same water block,  |
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Post by ShrimpBrime on May 13, 2016 22:37:02 GMT -5
I have this same block. I made a steel plate and soldered barbs to it. Leak free for quite a few years now. To prevent any kind of metal mixing, clear coat the inside with clear nail polish.
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Post by Vinster on May 14, 2016 9:29:10 GMT -5
I have this same block. I made a steel plate and soldered barbs to it. Leak free for quite a few years now. To prevent any kind of metal mixing, clear coat the inside with clear nail polish. Can you give me more detail as to how you soldered it, did you use a plumbing solder? what kind of barb did you use? and the plate was just a steel plate? I saw the pics of the one you did. The plastics shop I was thinking about is not closed  I stopping in yesterday and there is nothing left there. So I'm back in the hunt on a solution to this. Vin |
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Post by ShrimpBrime on May 14, 2016 10:12:24 GMT -5
I think it was electrical solder. I used 1/2" OD barbs. The make of them I am not sure, but are nickle plated.
Just a simple steel plate. no more than 1/8" thick.
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Post by Vinster on May 14, 2016 10:58:44 GMT -5
I think it was electrical solder. I used 1/2" OD barbs. The make of them I am not sure, but are nickle plated. Just a simple steel plate. no more than 1/8" thick. Ok, Thanks I have Brass barbs and Anodized Aluminum. Doubt I'd be able to use the anodized ones. Vin |
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Post by Vinster on May 14, 2016 15:50:46 GMT -5
Canadian ingenuity or stupidity... it'll thread nicely.... can you tell what it's from?  Made two pieces.. top and bottom... used JB weld and to bond them together...   Will know tomorrow if it holds... Vin |
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Post by ozz on May 14, 2016 17:19:41 GMT -5
looks like the bottom of a hockey stick to me vinnie, also if the plastic shop hasnt any left just buy a plastic chopping board thats used in the kitchen, its the same stuff and they come in different colours too lol
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Post by Vinster on May 14, 2016 17:32:27 GMT -5
looks like the bottom of a hockey stick to me vinnie, also if the plastic shop hasnt any left just buy a plastic chopping board thats used in the kitchen, its the same stuff and they come in different colours too lol Yep, it's from a hockey stick blade. I figure I have it here, I didn't have to buy anything so it was worth a shot. Ya Oz, I thought about going to a dollar store and seeing if they have some. I lapped this hockey blade (the block side) so I'll wait to see how this worked out tomorrow. Vin |
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Post by ozz on May 14, 2016 18:10:03 GMT -5
well you know itll be tough if how they whack that thing they hit with it is any indication  |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on May 15, 2016 8:04:21 GMT -5
That should work good Vin
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Post by Vinster on May 15, 2016 12:01:44 GMT -5
well you know itll be tough if how they whack that thing they hit with it is any indication Yep and it's meant to get cold. So I don't expect the product to get brittle either  Vin |
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Post by Vinster on May 15, 2016 13:38:36 GMT -5
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Post by ShrimpBrime on May 15, 2016 15:13:50 GMT -5
looks like you cut the ears off. I did the exact same thing.
Very nice job!
BTW, the cut out where the O'ring sits is 2". It fits a piece of copper pipe nicely to make a DICE Pot out of this block which I've also done.
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Post by Vinster on May 15, 2016 15:36:30 GMT -5
looks like you cut the ears off. I did the exact same thing. Very nice job! BTW, the cut out where the O'ring sits is 2". It fits a piece of copper pipe nicely to make a DICE Pot out of this block which I've also done. Ears are still there, but my top is a touch bigger so it hides them. I need to make a bench res. I've made 2 more threaded washers. I plan on taking an old container and using the threaded pieces on the inside sandwich the G1/4 connector. the bucket worked but was a real bitch to get the prime/flow going. also with the top I can't monitor the flow. The pump that's there is the pump that failed in my 24/7 rig. so I don't trust it at all... I have an old Thermaltake pump but it doesn't have any head to it and couldn't prime from the bucket at all... at least the 655 could a little. another thing I'd like to do is change out the screws that hold the top to the block. I'm not a fan of the inserted allan screws. I think I'd rather have a screw where I can add a top-plate or washer to it to make sure the top doesn't separate... I think the supplied allan screws are M4's? Might need to take one to Home-depot and put it in their measuring rack.... To make a pot out of one would be neat... but I only have this one block and I'd rather stick with water-cooling. Im thinking of deleting my few bench runs and go down to enthusiast league... I have a industrial power supply that has 2 outputs (12-15VDC @1.5A)ea. I plan on modding it to run the pump and some fans so the cooling loop will be separate from the bench PSU. Vin |
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ShrimpBrime offline
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Post by ShrimpBrime offline on May 15, 2016 17:16:10 GMT -5
Every now and then I look for these water blocks. Perfect for modifications.
Most of these pumps need to be primed on both ends inlet and outlet. If your using a bucket, a cheap 12$ fountain pump will work fine. Just drops into the bucket. great for bench testing.
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Post by Vinster on May 15, 2016 18:24:46 GMT -5
Every now and then I look for these water blocks. Perfect for modifications. Most of these pumps need to be primed on both ends inlet and outlet. If your using a bucket, a cheap 12$ fountain pump will work fine. Just drops into the bucket. great for bench testing. That is a damn good idea. I'll keep that in mind when these pumps go. Vin |
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Post by Vinster on May 15, 2016 21:16:25 GMT -5
More on this. I took the piece of threaded plastic from the test hole, used gasket maker and then plumbed it in to a spare container.  I then added a stainless steel strainer on the return. I would had liked to make it work on the inlet instead. Something to try one day.  I then took a leap and added a probe hole in to the block. It was the only spot I could add where it wouldn't puncture the the water runner in the block.  Vin |
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Post by Vinster on May 15, 2016 21:17:40 GMT -5
Here is the actual hole  Did some testing with my heat gun and the results were good so far. Here is a shot of the dual output PSU, I fixed channel 1 and it works great. so I added a molex connector on Channel 2 and it's running the pump now. The blue pot next to the cap is the voltage adjustment, it goes from 10v-16v  I just need to dig out some fans, but I'm looking forward to putting this on a PC. Vin |
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Post by ozz on May 15, 2016 21:36:37 GMT -5
nice vinnie, i like that block too, its similar to mine, yours is round and square, mines all sorta square ( like me) lol, a double thickness , my block is a chinese fleabay 1 but works good, its got 2 x 5 mm copper plates, and its 60 x 60 mm copper, not 50 x 50 mm, thats why i bought it, the bottom unscrews from the top so you can clean it, 99% of all my subs have been with this block, cost me $ 40 delivered, but i wanted to buy another one but cant find it now, seems to be discontinued when ive tried to look for it, theres others there with the same SS top plate shape and only 5mm copper thickness not 2 x 5 mm copper plates that screw together, i like how you put the probe in too, im gunna look and see if i can mod mine like that to get a more accurate reading of temps from the actual block as my probe is in the water res, so the actual cpu temp from the block so i cant be read it accurately as it is, but i know the difference in temps from the cpu to the res water is about 10c according to hardware monitor, under load anyway
its on the venus atm for the comp or id take a pic of both and show you the block and the other block and the difference of the copper plates, actually i think the other blocks copper plate is only 3 mm not 5 mm, it is i just checked and the top of the block is plastic where the good 1 the fittings screw into the top copper plate
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Post by Vinster on May 15, 2016 22:26:31 GMT -5
nice vinnie, i like that block too, its similar to mine, yours is round and square, mines all sorta square ( like me) lol, a double thickness , my block is a chinese fleabay 1 but works good, its got 2 x 5 mm copper plates, and its 60 x 60 mm copper, not 50 x 50 mm, thats why i bought it, the bottom unscrews from the top so you can clean it, 99% of all my subs have been with this block, cost me $ 40 delivered, but i wanted to buy another one but cant find it now, seems to be discontinued when ive tried to look for it, theres others there with the same SS top plate shape and only 5mm copper thickness not 2 x 5 mm copper plates that screw together, i like how you put the probe in too, im gunna look and see if i can mod mine like that to get a more accurate reading of temps from the actual block as my probe is in the water res, so the actual cpu temp from the block so i cant be read it accurately as it is, but i know the difference in temps from the cpu to the res water is about 10c according to hardware monitor, under load anyway its on the venus atm for the comp or id take a pic of both and show you the block and the other block and the difference of the copper plates, actually i think the other blocks copper plate is only 3 mm not 5 mm, it is i just checked and the top of the block is plastic where the good 1 the fittings screw into the top copper plate Here is my block on ebay; www.ebay.ca/itm/Thermaltake-Bigwater-735-Liquid-cooling-system-Socket-754-940-775-939-/201582724780?hash=item2eef4446ac:g:R00AAOSwvU5XM8ffIf I had money, I'd buy it... but I don't... The rad the seller is including is crap, I have it and I think it's not any good for benching. only has G1/8" ports.... Copper tubing with Aluminum fins.... But the nice is ot comes with all the brackets... I didn't get any with mine.. I had to make it. Vin |
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I stopping in yesterday and there is nothing left there. So I'm back in the hunt on a solution to this.
