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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 6, 2017 17:34:59 GMT -5
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 6, 2017 17:44:31 GMT -5
How does it clean up? Good enough to do a repair if needed?
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 6, 2017 18:07:26 GMT -5
If you look at the pictures in the ebay link you can see it can be peeled off although I dont know about it coming off from around IC legs or under the caps. I just want it not to die from condensation.  |
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 6, 2017 18:16:08 GMT -5
I understand.
I was just wondering if it was permanent like LET.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 6, 2017 19:10:18 GMT -5
It seems a lot like LET but its spray on.
I have peeled LET off before it comes off easily until as I said from under Caps and around IC legs it doesnt.
Acetone dissolves LET quicksmart.
As I would say it would this too.
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Post by Shadyreaper on Jun 6, 2017 19:29:27 GMT -5
that looks good man I have thought about doing mine like that I have plastidip in a spray can that is what I did the back of my boards with
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Post by Vinster on Jun 7, 2017 11:13:18 GMT -5
I love Plastidip... but 1 can of black is $21 here... but in the US is $7.. it's just unfair.
Vin
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Post by Shadyreaper on Jun 7, 2017 11:27:54 GMT -5
yea that is BS Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 13, 2017 17:22:33 GMT -5
I am really happy with the way this has come out it actually feels like rubber whereas paint on LET feels more hard like plastic. As you can see in the pic I have sprayed straight over the top of the NB IHS. I ran around the edge with a hobby knife and peeled it off the top of it and the adhesion was good it had stuck to it real good. I have got it back together now and will be taking it cold in a couple of days. The next board for the process is the Gigabyte AX370 Gaming 7. |
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Post by Vinster on Jun 13, 2017 20:12:38 GMT -5
that's just like the clear coat I did with the rust-o-leum semi-gloss clear coat. I like the look of that better as you can see the thickness you've applied and made sure you haven't missed anywhere.
Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 16, 2017 18:13:57 GMT -5
I am over the moon with this 3 hours under cold and not a problem with moisture and no messy Vaso anywhere. A lot of the time was spent getting it stable I found after playing with CPU voltages and settings for ages that giving it more NB volts produced stability. I was at 1.68v NB and as soon as I went up to 1.72v was able to get through SPi32 @ 5.78 GHz I am sure that I could get higher frequencies with more NB volts too. I am running the standard Fusion waterblock on the NB but am still a bit worried about giving it more volts as good as the heatsink assembly looks on them it still has its shortcomings. The heatsink for the NB is a thin Copper plate on the northbridge with 2 heatpipes running across the top of it and another thin Copper plate on the top of the heatpipes that the waterblock sits on all set in a Aluminium frame. I am thinking of cutting off the heatpipes where they come out of the VRM cooler and doing away with the Northbridge assembly completely. I have got a 1/4" sheet of Copper I will cut out a piece to fit on the Northbridge drill and Tap it and mount the waterblock on top of that it will have much better heat transfer. Then I will feel a lot safer going over 1.8v. Picture of the NB Assembly I have got 2.  |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 19, 2017 20:10:36 GMT -5
Board No.2 done Ryzen to the occasion. Should have this cold next week.  |
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Post by Vinster on Jun 20, 2017 20:45:27 GMT -5
looks great Mac. I like the look. might just do that to all the boards. I know it comes in yellow as well. Vin |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 20, 2017 21:14:02 GMT -5
I have just come in from doing my third board EP45-UD3P. It works great too, 2 x 3 hour runs with the REX at -120c and not a problem at all plus no messy Vaseline to clean up afterwards. I am thinking of buying sexy pink for the Maximus 9 Apex.  |
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Post by Vinster on Jun 20, 2017 21:25:29 GMT -5
I have just come in from doing my third board EP45-UD3P. It works great too, 2 x 3 hour runs with the REX at -120c and not a problem at all plus no messy Vaseline to clean up afterwards. I am thinking of buying sexy pink for the Maximus 9 Apex. ya, colour code them bitches. lol do you still put some in the socket? Vin |
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Post by Vinster on Jun 20, 2017 21:28:31 GMT -5
do you have a pic of the tape job before you spray?
Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 20, 2017 23:16:06 GMT -5
I dont put anything in the socket I have had paint on LET get up into the socket after freezing them there is something about that.
There is none in the socket when I actually put the CPU in it is just painted around the socket but after freezing it then turning the board upside down sitting on the pot when I take it apart there is the shit on the CPU pins and the bottom of the CPU.
As far as I can tell it gets under the socket and up next to the pins there is air spaces down between the pins to under the socket.
Its just strange you would think while frozen the stuff would be harder than ever I havent got an explanation for it.
Its easy enough to get off the pins though acetone on a small soft brush gets it off easily enough.
You dont need anything in the socket as long as the pot and insulation makes an airtight seal around the socket no water forms in there.
Its similar to if you look in your fridge and grab a can of beer out while in the fridge its dry once out on the bench its covered in water in 10 mins.
What air that is in around the socket cools down with the pot and no actual moisture forms.
Ah a pic of the tape job I was going to take one this morning but didnt. Next board I do I will take one for you Vin.
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Post by ozz on Jun 21, 2017 0:03:33 GMT -5
just a thought pete after reading, i think it should work, no reason why i wouldnt i dont think, before you spray the board, why isnt it possible to put a thin finger smear of silastic around the socket, that should seal the bottom of the socket from air or any moisture then spray the shit over the board once the silastic has cured, same as the ram, pci slots etc , maybe that will stop the shit going in the socket i dunno, never done it , just a thought
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Post by Bones on Jun 21, 2017 1:02:46 GMT -5
Just a thought here - I bought myself a spraycan of stuff called Flexseal that I've seen on TV and looks kinda like what you've been using.
I can say this....
Once it's sprayed and set it ain't going anywhere so looks like it would be good stuff to use but won't be coming off unless you scrape it off. I did a test spray on one of my dead boards and once it had set, that was it.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 21, 2017 2:16:14 GMT -5
Could be good Rodney. The stuff I have been using is just like Pastidip after reading about Plastidip, if you look at the ebay link that I posted in my first post you can see it being peeled off a mag wheel and it has a rubber feel to it. After 2 sessions with it I couldnt be happier. I have found some Pink Pastidip to do the Maximus IX Apex in. www.ebay.com.au/itm/Performix-Plasti-Dip-Spray-cans-Fierce-Pink-from-USA-4-can-wheel-pack/302299126363?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649Dont cry about the price Vin. Shane I dont need silicon around the socket this stuff doesnt do that. I cut the heatpipe off the Rex that goes beside the memory between the Northbridge and the top mosfet heatsink I didnt want it there with my insulation and the next day after the first cold session when I picked the board up the Mosfet heatsink fell off its a 2 part heatsink with the heatpipe through the midde glued together it didnt like the cold. The leftover heatpipe wasnt even tight in its recess the space is taken up with glue. So I was thinking of hitting the heatsink with the disk sander and then filing it flat to glue back onto the base but thought what else have I got and hacksawed a coupe of pieces of a DQ35JO NB heatsink and glued them on. Shane wanted to see pics of the cutoff heatpipe and heatsink so here it is and a pic of the Fusion NB waterblock I like the little waterblock its copper. You can see where I have added a bit of paint on Red LET around the Northbridge chip where it meets the board to seal it completely.   |
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Post by Vinster on Jun 21, 2017 6:59:39 GMT -5
well crap, good for you... really sucks being a canuck these days. Vin |
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Post by ozz on Jun 21, 2017 7:14:04 GMT -5
well crap, good for you... really sucks being a canuck these days. Vin ^^^^ vinnie  |
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Post by ozz on Jun 21, 2017 7:15:22 GMT -5
Could be good Rodney. The stuff I have been using is just like Pastidip after reading about Plastidip, if you look at the ebay link that I posted in my first post you can see it being peeled off a mag wheel and it has a rubber feel to it. After 2 sessions with it I couldnt be happier. I have found some Pink Pastidip to do the Maximus IX Apex in. www.ebay.com.au/itm/Performix-Plasti-Dip-Spray-cans-Fierce-Pink-from-USA-4-can-wheel-pack/302299126363?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649Dont cry about the price Vin. Shane I dont need silicon around the socket this stuff doesnt do that. I cut the heatpipe off the Rex that goes beside the memory between the Northbridge and the top mosfet heatsink I didnt want it there with my insulation and the next day after the first cold session when I picked the board up the Mosfet heatsink fell off its a 2 part heatsink with the heatpipe through the midde glued together it didnt like the cold. The leftover heatpipe wasnt even tight in its recess the space is taken up with glue. So I was thinking of hitting the heatsink with the disk sander and then filing it flat to glue back onto the base but thought what else have I got and hacksawed a coupe of pieces of a DQ35JO NB heatsink and glued them on. Shane wanted to see pics of the cutoff heatpipe and heatsink so here it is and a pic of the Fusion NB waterblock I like the little waterblock its copper. You can see where I have added a bit of paint on Red LET around the Northbridge chip where it meets the board to seal it completely. i like it pete how youve done that  |
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Post by funsoul on Jun 25, 2017 10:05:23 GMT -5
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 25, 2017 16:49:47 GMT -5
Thanks.
No I have never used it but Rasparthe used to actually that could be good on a board thats had vaso on it before.
I have got quite a few bards here that have had Vaso on them and I would have to get it off good to paint them but the dragonskin probably be a lot more forgiving with traces of vaso still on there.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 17, 2017 8:43:01 GMT -5
Here Vin is the tape job I have used sticky tape around the socket on this one it stuck to the board better than the masking tape. The second pic is the Apex and Crosshair VI Pretty in Pink.   |
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 17, 2017 9:47:47 GMT -5
nice job man I am gonna start painting the top side of my boards I did the back of all of them now I need to do the top side
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 17, 2017 16:48:19 GMT -5
The trick is to pull the mask off while the paint is still wet otherwise being rubber like it peels up from the board as you take the tape off.
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Post by ozz on Aug 17, 2017 17:52:19 GMT -5
lookin good all pretty in pink pete , is that board on the left on the box a triple channel mem board, i only see 3 ram slots |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 17, 2017 18:05:50 GMT -5
Maximus IX Apex the slot to the right a card goes in there that holds 2 M2 drives is isnt really a mem slot.
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