Post by ShrimpBrime on Jan 14, 2017 2:46:13 GMT -5
My secret. Relinquished for you plain in the subject title. Just some pointers and ideas, could be a game changer for your outlook on cooling projects with liquid cooling. I mean it seems like a pretty simple concept and there's not really much to say right? Well here I'm going to get a little more in depth than the plain idea of it. Think of this type of cooling like Geothermal vs ambient air cooled liquid loops and chillers. I'll explain the best I can why I choose this method and this time of year is perfect (winter) to get into Geothermal overclocking vs spending a lot of money with chillers and electric bills and the raw efficiency of tap to drain liquid cooling. For people with wells vs city tap, Ill try to touch base on differences of being piped in and ground pools.
The procedure for set up is very easy and basic. You make a loop simple from an adapter to your faucet so you can downsize to 5/8" or 1/2" for example. Run desired length to your bench, or set a bench near the faucet. My set up is about a foot away from the wall, so 6 feet of nylon tubing is plenty. In the water block and right back out of the out tube into the sink drain or fasten it to the sink to drain in. Duct tape works fine on the plastic shop sinks. Simple, quick and easy. No rads, no fans. But wait? No fans? Sure maybe on the Ram VRMs and NB like you usually do, but no loud noisy rad fans and wood in the window rads hanging outside, Chillers humming away and eventually get heat soaked and nice big fan and pump just turning that electric meter outside your home and even TECs which consume tons of power and often recommended to run a separate PSU.
Lets look at coolant for a moment and pit it up against water. Coolants are very good to have to keep build up from growing in the system. The truth is your copper tends to naturally tarnish inside no matter what you use. So it may as well be water. The build ups and tarnish tend to happen in loops that do not constantly run. Liquid in motion helps keep algae and such from growing in the system. Keeping it away from sun light too. Water just always has the best conductivity in almost any situation to transfer heat. Since we are talking about liquid cooling meaning any liquid, even with a chiller, no freezing is intended.
OK this means no need to "seal" a board from condensation.
The best way to keep your water block efficient in any loop is cleaning and bare metal to liquid contact.
Geothermal is a great in between sub ambient and sub freezing. It allows great flexibility and efficiency. Power consumption on your power supply will be lowered pretty well eliminating the pump and rad fans. Or you could utilize this type of method with those rad fans during the summer months. Simply add rad fans to your geothermal loop and chill your overclocking area, perhaps the bedroom or sun room. Think about this. your overclocking. your hot. Too cheap to turn on the AC unless the humidity and summer temps are high. Here you have a few 140.3 rads laying around. Well, let me tell you that ground water is always cooler than outside. you can set those rads on the table next to the rig and feed the motherboard some cooler ambient are offsetting the heat that VRM and NB, video card may be feeding your overclocking area. Thus adding even more efficiency.
Now about wells and pipes. Stagnant water in the ground is generally pretty cool. The problem can be bacteria and depending on how deep that well is how much ambient ground temp effects the changes in temperature from summer to winter. I will admit that even in winter temps are almost always cooler. Unless you are unfortunate to live in constant warmer climates..... well this type of cooling may help your idea on how to effectively cool your home (If you went crazy with the concept...) and have some better liquid cooling temps for your PC overclocking. The pipes however are a little bit more effected during climate change. But even in the summer, most of the time a nice cool glass of tap water just tastes great, nice and cool most of the time no ice needed. But because most water pipes are only a few feet underground if it's getting 110f outside, that water is probably warming up and this adventure may not be as enjoyable as it would be in winter. There are a lot of factors about tap to drain liquid cooling, but I'd imagine people in the upper northern hemisphere always have nice cold water. So region will play a large role in geothermal cooling, but still efficient enough to try it.
Water flow. This DOES make a difference. But please keep in mind that you can build a water pressure in your simple loop. This will effect your cooling. You can adjust temps but using slow flow and slowly open the valve and watch your load temps start dropping. If you don't believe me, give it a try. I used nice strong hose clamps on the tubes, holds up to 30 psi, and most nylon tubing can handle it too. The faster the water flow for those on a pipe and pay for it, well keep the flow slow. If it's included in your rent, use it up. It's paid for already cause you always pay rent a month ahead wink wink. The well may be a different story here requiring electric to run the pump. So this is where a downfall in efficiency happens with geothermal. Generally electric costs a good deal more than the water bill from city tap. Water is like air to an extent. When you blow on your hand it feels cool. Oh you just tried that? Now this time blow harder. Ah, even more cool air and it seems colder when you blow harder. When water flows faster, it tends to transfer more heat (technically) or cold if you will. The faster water flows, the harder it is to freeze. You might gain major efficiency from your chiller or TEC. Wait. Chill my already pre chilled water and my loop will no longer heat soak? You betcha.
This method is great for your de-lidded sA processors and pretty much anything with that infamous AMD cold bug. The chiller method can get negative temps, but chillers can be regulated so you don't need to freeze your loop. Which is good, but the geothermal is efficient. The nice thing about it is the constant running water temp. Once you've set the flow on the faucet, you'll find a very steady constant temp assuming your trying a burn in for testing in example. The nice thing about it is the ambient temps in the room do NOT effect geothermal cooling. At least not enough to make any impact over 0.5% or less from the ground to your block. having this advantage, you can save on the AC electric bill in the summer well knowing ambient room temps play a role in almost ALL liquid loops.
One of the only true down falls is your tied to a wall faucet. So for a lot of people this may be difficult to pull off. bathroom and kitchens aren't usually moms or wife's favorite idea. but if you have a basement washer dryer room.... heck you might pull it off. It's not portable. Yep. Tied to the wall. However, it could have advantages. You could literally pipe in as many PCs you wanted.
I may add more to this at a later time. Questions welcome.
The procedure for set up is very easy and basic. You make a loop simple from an adapter to your faucet so you can downsize to 5/8" or 1/2" for example. Run desired length to your bench, or set a bench near the faucet. My set up is about a foot away from the wall, so 6 feet of nylon tubing is plenty. In the water block and right back out of the out tube into the sink drain or fasten it to the sink to drain in. Duct tape works fine on the plastic shop sinks. Simple, quick and easy. No rads, no fans. But wait? No fans? Sure maybe on the Ram VRMs and NB like you usually do, but no loud noisy rad fans and wood in the window rads hanging outside, Chillers humming away and eventually get heat soaked and nice big fan and pump just turning that electric meter outside your home and even TECs which consume tons of power and often recommended to run a separate PSU.
Lets look at coolant for a moment and pit it up against water. Coolants are very good to have to keep build up from growing in the system. The truth is your copper tends to naturally tarnish inside no matter what you use. So it may as well be water. The build ups and tarnish tend to happen in loops that do not constantly run. Liquid in motion helps keep algae and such from growing in the system. Keeping it away from sun light too. Water just always has the best conductivity in almost any situation to transfer heat. Since we are talking about liquid cooling meaning any liquid, even with a chiller, no freezing is intended.
OK this means no need to "seal" a board from condensation.
The best way to keep your water block efficient in any loop is cleaning and bare metal to liquid contact.
Geothermal is a great in between sub ambient and sub freezing. It allows great flexibility and efficiency. Power consumption on your power supply will be lowered pretty well eliminating the pump and rad fans. Or you could utilize this type of method with those rad fans during the summer months. Simply add rad fans to your geothermal loop and chill your overclocking area, perhaps the bedroom or sun room. Think about this. your overclocking. your hot. Too cheap to turn on the AC unless the humidity and summer temps are high. Here you have a few 140.3 rads laying around. Well, let me tell you that ground water is always cooler than outside. you can set those rads on the table next to the rig and feed the motherboard some cooler ambient are offsetting the heat that VRM and NB, video card may be feeding your overclocking area. Thus adding even more efficiency.
Now about wells and pipes. Stagnant water in the ground is generally pretty cool. The problem can be bacteria and depending on how deep that well is how much ambient ground temp effects the changes in temperature from summer to winter. I will admit that even in winter temps are almost always cooler. Unless you are unfortunate to live in constant warmer climates..... well this type of cooling may help your idea on how to effectively cool your home (If you went crazy with the concept...) and have some better liquid cooling temps for your PC overclocking. The pipes however are a little bit more effected during climate change. But even in the summer, most of the time a nice cool glass of tap water just tastes great, nice and cool most of the time no ice needed. But because most water pipes are only a few feet underground if it's getting 110f outside, that water is probably warming up and this adventure may not be as enjoyable as it would be in winter. There are a lot of factors about tap to drain liquid cooling, but I'd imagine people in the upper northern hemisphere always have nice cold water. So region will play a large role in geothermal cooling, but still efficient enough to try it.
Water flow. This DOES make a difference. But please keep in mind that you can build a water pressure in your simple loop. This will effect your cooling. You can adjust temps but using slow flow and slowly open the valve and watch your load temps start dropping. If you don't believe me, give it a try. I used nice strong hose clamps on the tubes, holds up to 30 psi, and most nylon tubing can handle it too. The faster the water flow for those on a pipe and pay for it, well keep the flow slow. If it's included in your rent, use it up. It's paid for already cause you always pay rent a month ahead wink wink. The well may be a different story here requiring electric to run the pump. So this is where a downfall in efficiency happens with geothermal. Generally electric costs a good deal more than the water bill from city tap. Water is like air to an extent. When you blow on your hand it feels cool. Oh you just tried that? Now this time blow harder. Ah, even more cool air and it seems colder when you blow harder. When water flows faster, it tends to transfer more heat (technically) or cold if you will. The faster water flows, the harder it is to freeze. You might gain major efficiency from your chiller or TEC. Wait. Chill my already pre chilled water and my loop will no longer heat soak? You betcha.
This method is great for your de-lidded sA processors and pretty much anything with that infamous AMD cold bug. The chiller method can get negative temps, but chillers can be regulated so you don't need to freeze your loop. Which is good, but the geothermal is efficient. The nice thing about it is the constant running water temp. Once you've set the flow on the faucet, you'll find a very steady constant temp assuming your trying a burn in for testing in example. The nice thing about it is the ambient temps in the room do NOT effect geothermal cooling. At least not enough to make any impact over 0.5% or less from the ground to your block. having this advantage, you can save on the AC electric bill in the summer well knowing ambient room temps play a role in almost ALL liquid loops.
One of the only true down falls is your tied to a wall faucet. So for a lot of people this may be difficult to pull off. bathroom and kitchens aren't usually moms or wife's favorite idea. but if you have a basement washer dryer room.... heck you might pull it off. It's not portable. Yep. Tied to the wall. However, it could have advantages. You could literally pipe in as many PCs you wanted.
I may add more to this at a later time. Questions welcome.
