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Post by maddmutt on Jul 18, 2024 5:36:02 GMT -5
Here is a Picture of the Compressor that I bought to replace the old 1/5hp. I had disconnected every thing several months ago for less work when a HVAC person fixed it. I can't find a Hvac person that has the time SO I'm trying it. If you can verify what connection is going to which of the 3 tubes on the compressor :-) Thank You
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jul 18, 2024 17:33:50 GMT -5
Suction Line definitely goes to the evaporator. The other 2 I am not 100% sure on one is the service port and the other is the discharge port. I would ask on Disfunction Nicoll or one of them would be able to tell you.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jul 18, 2024 21:57:15 GMT -5
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Post by spit051261 on Jul 21, 2024 21:17:25 GMT -5
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Post by maddmutt on Aug 9, 2024 4:47:58 GMT -5
I've Finally Finished the SS :-) This is my first attempt at brazing so it does not look nice. I've filled it with r134 to 50 psi and got -23.5c during the first frost testing :-) I also have ~ 5 LBS of r404 but did not use as it's harder to get. The Cap Size is .125 1/8" - Please let me know HOW I could do this better.
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Post by maddmutt on Aug 13, 2024 6:07:39 GMT -5
I got it running and tried some benching “just as it is”. I froze a i7-980x BUT after 30min the compressor was HOT!! On the rotary 1hp comp it had an auto temp shut off to save the comp. I’m not sure if this one has it also or if it was just a few Cs from the auto shut off. * I used r134a that I purchased at Auto Zone, do I need to do anything else? * I also have r404, how much will that help the cooling?
Thank You :-)
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 13, 2024 7:12:32 GMT -5
Yes, the compressor will get hot.
Needs large condenser and large fan. Pull the heat off the condenser and blow it across the pump.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Aug 13, 2024 7:21:01 GMT -5
You put oil in it, right ?
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Post by maddmutt on Aug 14, 2024 6:46:09 GMT -5
You put oil in it, right ? ^ That's also what my son-in-law asked. i took it back out side and finished filling it with r134 (that I purchased at AutoZone) which go the PSI to 60. I retested again and was only able to get it to ~ -8c. The pressure valves read 10 on the low side and 225 on the high side. * This time the suction hose was completely frozen into the compressor?? Where can I purchase another condenser, all i see on e-bay are CAR radiators?
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Post by dr4g00n on Aug 14, 2024 9:42:16 GMT -5
You put oil in it, right ? ^ That's also what my son-in-law asked. i took it back out side and finished filling it with r134 (that I purchased at AutoZone) which go the PSI to 60. I retested again and was only able to get it to ~ -8c. The pressure valves read 10 on the low side and 225 on the high side. * This time the suction hose was completely frozen into the compressor?? Where can I purchase another condenser, all i see on e-bay are CAR radiators?
The condenser should be fine, it looks about the right size for a 1/2HP compressor. Did you make sure to add a filter/drier in the liquid line (the thin one)? I can't see one in your picture. Often times automotive refrigerant will come with an appropriate amount of oil in the can, you should definitely check whether that's the case with yours. Also, it's very much possible to overcharge the unit with too much refrigerant, might explain why the temp went up.
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Post by spit051261 on Aug 16, 2024 21:33:56 GMT -5
Is 10 on the low side too low ? High side seems Ok . I have not messed around with phase but have extensive experience of auto AC systems so I may be wrong. We only use R134a and ALWAYS add oil after a fresh install otherwise the compressor won't last long I found propane a better refrigerant than R134a and you don't need as much .
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 17, 2024 1:23:17 GMT -5
Both gauges open, the high and low pressures should equalize. I like to see 80 to 90psi both gauges.
High side closed for adding refrigerant. Both gauges closed means nothing.
Low side goes higher pressure than high side, there's a restriction.
If high side goes too high, you need a bigger condenser. If it's real hot, same deal. Have to remove the heat. This is very important. 225 psi is way too high.
Possibly under-charged if you're freezing at the compressor.
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Post by maddmutt on Sept 17, 2024 13:05:02 GMT -5
* THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP :-) I ASSUMED that I would transfer ENOUGH OIL when I filled it with r134. I instead went to AutoZone and picked up a 3oz can of r134 with ESTER OIL AS the basic 12oz, 16oz, Ect CAN of r134 DIDNOT list ESTER OIL as an ingredient. I rebuilt the setup with Proper .083 OD X .031 ID X 12ft of Capillary tube. - I filled the setup with 3oz of the ESTER OIL, ~50psi of r134a, and ~15psi of r404a. I GOT -45c <-> -48c with NO LOAD. I installed the setup onto my current benching setup (Asus z590 Apex, i5 10600k, and G.Skill B-Die at 3866 12-12-28) and started testing. I got ~15min before A LINE in the SS setup Froze UP :-( It took another ~15min for the LINE to Thaw (My Gauges where stuck at -20psi Low and 175psi high) before my gauges started moving to equalize the pressure of both sides at ~65psi. - I bleed the setup back to 45psi BUT it REFUSED to COOL. I refilled it while running with r134 until it started cooling again, TOTAL PSI was again ~ 65 <-> 70. I left it like that and retested, this time it was SLOW to drop temps. It would drop ~.1c <-> .5c as before it would do .5c <-> 2c+. It dropped to -35c and I started benching with 2c/2t setup. I was able to get a CPU-Z of 5.6ghz 1.6v and several benches done. The SS would drop the Temp when the CPU was under load BUT WOULD SLOWLY raise the temp back up by .1c :-( I had dropped from a MAX of ~ -35c when I started SuperPi 1m, to -12c when It FAILED Geekbench 6 (I had it setup 2c/2t for the single core benches).
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Sept 17, 2024 13:45:24 GMT -5
Maybe stand the filter upright? Cap tube to the bottom? Not sure if this would make a difference, but usually see them vertical.
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