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Post by Bones on Apr 7, 2023 0:14:10 GMT -5
Have a repair to do to my CIV board that had the bottom of the VRM cooler separate from the finned part of it.
It's glued in place and the old glue just gave up one day and I've tried to fix it a couple of times since - It keeps popping apart.
So.... I could try again or remove that part of the heatsink assembly and make a separate cooler for the VRM's, which I've done before on other boards.
I'd have to first, crimp that part of it so anything that might leak out from the pipe won't, then seal it with a blob of solder to take care of that part of it, leaving the NB and SB parts of it still as they are now.
Then simply take some copper I have around and make the new heatsink.
Only question I have is how risky is it to the part I want to leave intact to do this.
I know if I crimp the pipe well it shoudn't have anything leak out it needs and sealing that end of it with solder isn't hard to do once crimped.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 7, 2023 0:44:29 GMT -5
Not risky at all if you solder it up it will never leak you will probably find there is nothing in the heatpipe anyway.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Apr 7, 2023 7:58:08 GMT -5
Heatpipe is a vacuum. Once you open it it will never work again.
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Post by MachineLearning on Apr 7, 2023 9:42:46 GMT -5
Would you be able to use thermal glue to put it back together? For thermal conductivity, would probably work better than what was used initially. I've been using Halnziye HY910 recently, it works well.
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Post by Bones on Apr 7, 2023 9:57:16 GMT -5
Good advice here, esp about it having a vacuum which is one thing I didn't know. I always thought it had a medium inside like fluid with a wick to conduct the heat to the pipe wall and so on.
That's why I was thinking about crimping that part of the pipe and to crimp it completely before doing any cutting of the pipe itself. I guess IF I were to do that and do a good job of it the vacuum should remain but all it takes is any amount of opening present and it's gone.
As for thermal glue, I'd have to find some thermal adhesive and that would probrably work, of course not to the VRM's themselves so it can be removed later if need be while still conducting the heat away from them. I did check the egg yesterday and I know at one time they sold AS thermal adhesive which would work but I didn't see it listed, in fact I don't recall seeing any kind of adhesive there, just paste and that's all.
I'll get it fixed somehow even if I have to make heatsinks for all of it - Which I can do if I must and yes, those would work better than the original setup once I have them done and in place.
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Post by MachineLearning on Apr 7, 2023 14:24:23 GMT -5
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Post by Mr.Scott on Apr 7, 2023 15:04:02 GMT -5
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Post by Bones on Apr 7, 2023 16:22:53 GMT -5
Only fly in the ointment here is I no longer have a PayPal account and the listing says it's required. Doesn't mean there aren't others that sell it and I will look around when I have time. |
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Post by Mr.Scott on Apr 7, 2023 16:42:47 GMT -5
Amazon sells it.  |
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Post by Bones on Apr 7, 2023 17:08:08 GMT -5
I'll check it out.
I believe right now I'm gonna use the gorilla glue gel again and see if it will hold this time. It's good stuff overall and does hold, it's just in this case I may be the cause of it not holding due to incorrect prep of the surfaces involved and I have some of it here already I can use.
I'll try it again this evening and see if it will hold or not.
And if not, I already know what to do.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 7, 2023 17:37:56 GMT -5
Halnziye works alright its holding the NB VRM sinks on my REX. But the Arctic 2 pack was far ahead wish I could still get that.
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Post by Bones on Apr 8, 2023 14:19:51 GMT -5
I may have figured out how to make it work with what I have, will get on that before long and see what happens.
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Post by Bones on Apr 14, 2023 18:42:21 GMT -5
OK - The fix is done and maybe this time it will hold.
I will give it a shot a little later.
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Post by Bones on Apr 15, 2023 20:29:40 GMT -5
Set it up and so far it's working.
NB temps are high as usual, hitting close to 60c at idle which isn't right but I did feel the heatsink and it's not hot, just warm so I'm thinking it's just a borked sensor.
The VRM part that came loose is holding and was passing heat, only getting a bit warm after about 20 minutes of sitting in the BIOS with an unlocked Sempron running. My aim was just to see if the board would work at all to start with, next it's onto larger wattage chips to see how it does.
It refused to do anything the last time I tried the board and had that consideration, hence the Sempron but since it's working that will be my next step.
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