Post by ShrimpBrime on May 1, 2016 21:40:40 GMT -5
Post by ShrimpBrime » Sun Feb 23, 2014 12:56 am
FX BullDozer Llano (Bobcat) and Phenom (Agena) and Phenom II (Deneb) Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS Plate) Soldered Removal Guide.
This is recommended for Liquid Cooled (or better)PC's Only!
Warning! High Temperatures. You will burn yourself.
No Person But yourself is responsible for damage or cpu life decrease.
Step one. Gather tools needed to complete the task.
1. Razors
2. Cpu
3. Mini torch
4. Toilet Paper
5. Wet sanding paper
6. Athlon Heat Sink
7. A Fan
8. Camera
9. Grounding wire (You must be grounded or insulated from static)
10. Knowledge of De-lidding Athlons that aren't soldered. (Very important) --I'll explain later..
Step 2. Clean the Cpu and take a pic. The information lies there. It sometimes get's damaged by heat and then becomes no longer legible.
Step 3. This is where your previous knowledge comes in handy. Using your razor, you make the incision into the Silicone where the IHS plate is glued to the board. Make several passes carefully until the blade slides easily all the way around. The Athlon A64 Cpu's (low end) without solder will end at this step. After you've made a few careful passes, the IHS plate will pop right off.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________________________________
Step 4. Place the Cpu pins down on your Athlon Heat Sink. This is to draw the heat off of the pins as quicky as possible. The pins are soldered on as well and can fall off.
Step 5. Clamp The Cpu PCB with a small model Vice. Any kind of Vice will work as long as you can set it up to be close to set the pin side down on a heat sink.
Step 6. Clamp a small to medium pair of ViceGrips into the edges of the heat sink. The Vice should have just enough clamping force to hold the weight of the ViceGrips without you helping to hold them up.
Step 7. Heat the center of the OHS plate only. The heat will climb quicker for a faster removal. Hold the ViceGrips with a slight upward pull. When you hear a little crackle, the solder is letting go, the IHS plate should come off during this moment. To much heat will result in failure like the FX-4100 when I wasn't using this method of removal.
Step 8. Cooling and Lapping 101.
Get the fan on it fast. Cool the cpu quickly back to a room temperature. You don't need to stick it in a freezer or anything, it'll be fine with the heatsink under it. When the cpu is cool, use the little pin cover foam from the cpu box and cover the pins. Use your thumbnail to gently scrape the solder down as far as you can. Be careful not to bend pins or chip any of the little chips around the SOI.
Lap it! Same thing as doing the IHS plate it'self, just smaller. Do the figure 8 motion with a very high grain paper. 1500 at the least amount of grit. This process will remove the remaining solder from the Silicone. When you have completed the lapping, check for the bent pins and straighten them. Then apply the Thermal paste nice and thin. I used a Razor this time around instead of a gaudy credit card.
Step 9. Turn the PC on.
NOTE: The IHS plate, if heated correctly, should be off in One minute of heat.
I hope this Tutorial helps guide you to a safe IHS plate removal.
FX-6100 De-Lidded Working
FX-9590 De-lidded Killed x1
FX-9590 De-lidded Working x2
FX-8320 De-lidded Kept working
Athon 5000+ unlocker FX-5000 Kept
970T De-lidded for a customer Working
1090T De-lidded Working
965BE De-lidded working
940BE De-lidded working
9850BE De-lidded working
9950BE De-lidded working
FX-4100 De-lidded NOT Working
FX-4300 working with video
6400+ De-lidded working
6400+ delidded working (2nd 6400+ delidded)
A8-3850 De-lidded no solder working
Here is a link to the AMD 965BE de-lidding. Also includes an Athlon II 250 x2:
FX BullDozer Llano (Bobcat) and Phenom (Agena) and Phenom II (Deneb) Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS Plate) Soldered Removal Guide.
This is recommended for Liquid Cooled (or better)PC's Only!
Warning! High Temperatures. You will burn yourself.
No Person But yourself is responsible for damage or cpu life decrease.
Step one. Gather tools needed to complete the task.
1. Razors
2. Cpu
3. Mini torch
4. Toilet Paper
5. Wet sanding paper
6. Athlon Heat Sink
7. A Fan
8. Camera
9. Grounding wire (You must be grounded or insulated from static)
10. Knowledge of De-lidding Athlons that aren't soldered. (Very important) --I'll explain later..
Step 2. Clean the Cpu and take a pic. The information lies there. It sometimes get's damaged by heat and then becomes no longer legible.
Step 3. This is where your previous knowledge comes in handy. Using your razor, you make the incision into the Silicone where the IHS plate is glued to the board. Make several passes carefully until the blade slides easily all the way around. The Athlon A64 Cpu's (low end) without solder will end at this step. After you've made a few careful passes, the IHS plate will pop right off.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________________________________
Step 4. Place the Cpu pins down on your Athlon Heat Sink. This is to draw the heat off of the pins as quicky as possible. The pins are soldered on as well and can fall off.
Step 5. Clamp The Cpu PCB with a small model Vice. Any kind of Vice will work as long as you can set it up to be close to set the pin side down on a heat sink.
Step 6. Clamp a small to medium pair of ViceGrips into the edges of the heat sink. The Vice should have just enough clamping force to hold the weight of the ViceGrips without you helping to hold them up.
Step 7. Heat the center of the OHS plate only. The heat will climb quicker for a faster removal. Hold the ViceGrips with a slight upward pull. When you hear a little crackle, the solder is letting go, the IHS plate should come off during this moment. To much heat will result in failure like the FX-4100 when I wasn't using this method of removal.
Step 8. Cooling and Lapping 101.
Get the fan on it fast. Cool the cpu quickly back to a room temperature. You don't need to stick it in a freezer or anything, it'll be fine with the heatsink under it. When the cpu is cool, use the little pin cover foam from the cpu box and cover the pins. Use your thumbnail to gently scrape the solder down as far as you can. Be careful not to bend pins or chip any of the little chips around the SOI.
Lap it! Same thing as doing the IHS plate it'self, just smaller. Do the figure 8 motion with a very high grain paper. 1500 at the least amount of grit. This process will remove the remaining solder from the Silicone. When you have completed the lapping, check for the bent pins and straighten them. Then apply the Thermal paste nice and thin. I used a Razor this time around instead of a gaudy credit card.
Step 9. Turn the PC on.
NOTE: The IHS plate, if heated correctly, should be off in One minute of heat.
I hope this Tutorial helps guide you to a safe IHS plate removal.
FX-6100 De-Lidded Working
FX-9590 De-lidded Killed x1
FX-9590 De-lidded Working x2
FX-8320 De-lidded Kept working
Athon 5000+ unlocker FX-5000 Kept
970T De-lidded for a customer Working
1090T De-lidded Working
965BE De-lidded working
940BE De-lidded working
9850BE De-lidded working
9950BE De-lidded working
FX-4100 De-lidded NOT Working
FX-4300 working with video
6400+ De-lidded working
6400+ delidded working (2nd 6400+ delidded)
A8-3850 De-lidded no solder working
Here is a link to the AMD 965BE de-lidding. Also includes an Athlon II 250 x2:
