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Post by MachineLearning on Feb 13, 2023 21:17:45 GMT -5
Hi everyone, I messed up a Striker II NSE pretty bad when I was taking off the HS assembly. Long story short I tugged too hard on thermal adhesive and it brought up a part of the SB with it... see photos: Foolish mistake and a lesson learned. Clearly the entire SB needs to be swapped out. It should work except for this damage, I tested it beforehand.
I am wondering if there is anyone who has the tools to replace the nForce 570 MCP (MCP55) and the ability to source it. I am not sure how much this typically costs, so we will work out a price.
For shipping, I live in the continental US, so somewhere in NA is preferred to keep costs low.
Thanks for reading.
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Post by Bones on Feb 13, 2023 23:39:59 GMT -5
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Post by MachineLearning on Feb 13, 2023 23:58:37 GMT -5
Thanks, sent them a message to see.  Still open to all options. |
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Post by austin86 on Feb 14, 2023 9:17:22 GMT -5
Did you try it after you damaged the SB? you might be lucky and all you damaged was the glass cover on the die, not sure what its called, its almost like glass... Ether way I seen chips with damaged like that still work.
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Post by MachineLearning on Feb 14, 2023 10:13:43 GMT -5
Did you try it after you damaged the SB? you might be lucky and all you damaged was the glass cover on the die, not sure what its called, its almost like glass... Ether way I seen chips with damaged like that still work. Out of desperation I did try this - no power on, although the onboard pwr/rst lights were lit. Afaik power on signal goes through the SB, so I figure it's totally kaput. |
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Post by austin86 on Feb 14, 2023 10:51:06 GMT -5
Did you try it after you damaged the SB? you might be lucky and all you damaged was the glass cover on the die, not sure what its called, its almost like glass... Ether way I seen chips with damaged like that still work. Out of desperation I did try this - no power on, although the onboard pwr/rst lights were lit. Afaik power on signal goes through the SB, so I figure it's totally kaput. Maybe try jumping on the PSU ? grounding the green wire on the ATX connector ? I'd be ready to pull the plug just encase. |
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Post by MachineLearning on Feb 14, 2023 11:01:28 GMT -5
Out of desperation I did try this - no power on, although the onboard pwr/rst lights were lit. Afaik power on signal goes through the SB, so I figure it's totally kaput. Maybe try jumping on the PSU ? grounding the green wire on the ATX connector ? I'd be ready to pull the plug just encase. Considering how it looks I'd rather not force power to it in case I make things worse... As it is the damage should only be physical. I hope. |
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Post by austin86 on Feb 14, 2023 11:21:15 GMT -5
Maybe try jumping on the PSU ? grounding the green wire on the ATX connector ? I'd be ready to pull the plug just encase. Considering how it looks I'd rather not force power to it in case I make things worse... As it is the damage should only be physical. I hope. I don't blame you. Hope you get it fixed, its a good board. |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Feb 14, 2023 17:10:44 GMT -5
Its easily replaceable a lot easier than a socket or a large GPU chip you have to find a replacement chip though probably on another lesser grade board with the same chipset.
See what this mob you have sent a message to say then we will go from there it will cost you to post it here and back though.
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Post by MachineLearning on Feb 14, 2023 18:03:15 GMT -5
Its easily replaceable a lot easier than a socket or a large GPU chip you have to find a replacement chip though probably on another lesser grade board with the same chipset. See what this mob you have sent a message to say then we will go from there it will cost you to post it here and back though. That's a fortunate thing about this SB, MCP55 was used with a ton of different northbridges across different platforms. Most of the 500 series (both AMD & Intel), 680i. 780i. 790i, so sourcing one from a dead board should be very possible.
It's the reballing part I'm most concerned about, don't have a hot air station or anything like that.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Feb 14, 2023 21:38:22 GMT -5
Hot air wont do it you need a proper beballing station the board has to be heated as well as the new chip.
Generally the board needs to be heated from the backside to around 100c measured on the topside next to the chip then the top heater comes on and takes it 180c then 195c 210c 220c at which time the chip should be free and can be lifted off. Then you jump straight in and clean the pads up with solder wick and a T12 iron with a 1403 tip. The chip you are going to put on has to be cleaned and reballed with a stencil.
Then you just carefully sit it in position on the board and go through the heating process again.
I have a ACHI6500 rework station here
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Post by austin86 on Feb 15, 2023 9:29:56 GMT -5
Hot air wont do it you need a proper beballing station the board has to be heated as well as the new chip. Generally the board needs to be heated from the backside to around 100c measured on the topside next to the chip then the top heater comes on and takes it 180c then 195c 210c 220c at which time the chip should be free and can be lifted off. Then you jump straight in and clean the pads up with solder wick and a T12 iron with a 1403 tip. The chip you are going to put on has to be cleaned and reballed with a stencil. Then you just carefully sit it in position on the board and go through the heating process again. I have a ACHI6500 rework station here How would you keep the SMD's on the top side of the chip from getting damaged ? |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Feb 16, 2023 1:26:01 GMT -5
Dont worry about them they will stay in place even though the solder melts.
Its all about how lift them off the board too need a long pair of tweezers bent to grab the chip by the edges.
Also small SMD devices beside the chip can be a problem too lift straight up and dont shake there is nothing worse than knocking a few off there pads
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