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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 19, 2021 3:30:50 GMT -5
Hello guys im new here to w9, i was directed here from ltt forums because i wanted to do some voltmodding to my g31m s2c
Yea i think ill just do that when i get another board since this pc project has been going on for far too long (~2-3 years) and i just realised that my chase for an optimal pc is just irrational at this point, maybe ill look at voltmodding a dead board to see if it works or not and maybe ill post another thread once i find something to voltmod, i do have a p5q so i might look into voltmodding that since the only mod ive done is flash the bios to a p5q pro turbo
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Post by Bones on Sept 19, 2021 5:12:13 GMT -5
First off, welcome!
You probrably know me as "Beerzerker" from LTT but this is really who I am and what I prefer to go by. Yes, it's a good idea to learn and practice volt modding, soldering and the like with stuff you don't care about, that's dead or whatever so any loss from learning is minimal.
The guys here have plenty of know-how and at least can help you. Feel free to pop in and ask questions anytime you'd like, we'll do what we can to help.
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Post by mrpaco on Sept 19, 2021 9:26:41 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum.
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Post by Aleslammer on Sept 19, 2021 11:05:15 GMT -5
Welcome!!!
Only G31 chipset board I've every played with was GA G31M-S2L worked fairly well pulled a 440+ FSB with a Yorky around 1.45v on the CPU, but only put up the one sub. As for volt mods I'm of no help.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Sept 19, 2021 12:15:47 GMT -5
Welcome to warp9! Enjoy your stay!
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Sept 19, 2021 20:31:52 GMT -5
Welcome aboard
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 20, 2021 3:33:52 GMT -5
Welcome!!! Only G31 chipset board I've every played with was GA G31M-S2L worked fairly well pulled a 440+ FSB with a Yorky around 1.45v on the CPU, but only put up the one sub. As for volt mods I'm of no help. Interesting I think ill sidegrade to a p31 ds3l and do my voltmodding on that, should be abit easier to find the volts im looking for since you can adjust all the volts in the bios, albeit to a limited extent, though before i go to a ds3l ill prob get a p5e vm hdmi since ive found one for a pretty good deal and it would be interesting to screw around with a g35 board Btw is there any use in increasing southbridge volts? Cause on my p5q i can only go up to 1.4v sb |
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Post by Bones on Sept 20, 2021 4:30:43 GMT -5
It may help stability in some situations but I've never ran mine up to 1.4v's before, a small bump over stock should suffice for almost anything you'd do.
No need to worry about more voltage than you have available right now, the NB is what to worry about once clocks get high.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 20, 2021 11:08:30 GMT -5
It may help stability in some situations but I've never ran mine up to 1.4v's before, a small bump over stock should suffice for almost anything you'd do. No need to worry about more voltage than you have available right now, the NB is what to worry about once clocks get high. I thought it was just shove the volt to max and be done with it xD Yea i think after i sell this pc with g31m s2c ill also sell my p5q boards in exchange for a gigabyte p45 (prob ud3p or ud3r) since asus kinda sucks cause of the bios crippling on lower end p45 boards Asus p5q seem to only do 600 but gigabte p45 seem to go 700fsb if your ram isnt garbage (currently i have some 1066 team group xtreem dark 6-6-6-18 rams, prob not the best but itll do) Though before doing anything with my p5qs i need to upgrade my psu cause my generic "500w" unit keeps going haywire with the volts if i try raising nb volt |
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Post by Aleslammer on Sept 20, 2021 12:15:30 GMT -5
PS very important! As for your Asus Gigabyte comparison there isn't a lot of difference when your cooling with ambient methods.
Generally speaking what is your intent of use, would help us make our answers more to the point.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 20, 2021 12:38:32 GMT -5
PS very important! As for your Asus Gigabyte comparison there isn't a lot of difference when your cooling with ambient methods. Generally speaking what is your intent of use, would help us make our answers more to the point. I intend to overclock the sht out of my poor cpus My ram should be decent enough for ~600-700fsb if i can tune em properly Pretty much just want an ocing testbench Ill be using some cheap custom water which ill upgrade over time, initial setup will be cheap 15$ 240mm rad + cheap 2$ waterblock + cheap 4$ pump + diy res (make one out of a plastic or glass container), but overtime ill add another rad for 480mm worth of cooling and upgrade the cpu block to a cheap copperblock with microfins Currently im using a 92mm cheap chinese tower and its already enough for a 4.5ghz 1.44v oc on my e8400, keeps the temps around 80c For an actual pc that ill use for a daily i think ill just go x58 cause i found a really good deal with a "broken" mobo (bios flash gone wrong, i do have a bios programmer ch341a), its an x58 ud9 or something like that but nb has waterblock on it + i7 990x + 12gb ram + hd 5870 for about 150$, pretty much just need to add psu storage and case, i think ill buy in the near future though prob after ive bought a laptop or something |
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Sept 20, 2021 13:18:08 GMT -5
Pond pump in a bucket of ice water then. No rads or fans. Just the block pump and ice water. Is the cheapest way to get chilly temps.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Sept 20, 2021 20:12:40 GMT -5
Btw is there any use in increasing southbridge volts? Cause on my p5q i can only go up to 1.4v sb 1.2-1.25v is about all you'll need even for extreme overclocking.  |
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 20, 2021 21:13:09 GMT -5
Btw is there any use in increasing southbridge volts? Cause on my p5q i can only go up to 1.4v sb 1.2-1.25v is about all you'll need even for extreme overclocking. Guess the only reason to go higher is to prevent stupid pagefile bsods, already shoved sata volt to 1.8 in the bios cause of the stupid pagefile errors so maybe increasing sb might also help |
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 20, 2021 21:22:51 GMT -5
Pond pump in a bucket of ice water then. No rads or fans. Just the block pump and ice water. Is the cheapest way to get chilly temps. I was thinking more like a regular custom loop but with the ability to disconnect the rads via valves or something so i can just stick some ice in the res, issue being that ill use antifreeze so i dont wanna f up the mixture so maybe ill put an ice chamber or something but idk yet I think ill go about my ocing with reusable ice or a tec to cool the waterloop, though im leaning towards reusable ice cause you know tecs are absolute garbage in terms of power efficiency and with the 72w tec i have i think itll take a really long time to even start noticably cooling the loop, sure they can reach subzero idle but they are hot trash if i want to try actually putting a load on the cpu Ah well ill have to build the loop and see what happens, if i go the icebox route my concept is just stick a rad in a box and fill the box with ice xD |
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Sept 20, 2021 21:41:48 GMT -5
Pond pump in a bucket of ice water then. No rads or fans. Just the block pump and ice water. Is the cheapest way to get chilly temps. I was thinking more like a regular custom loop but with the ability to disconnect the rads via valves or something so i can just stick some ice in the res, issue being that ill use antifreeze so i dont wanna f up the mixture so maybe ill put an ice chamber or something but idk yet I think ill go about my ocing with reusable ice or a tec to cool the waterloop, though im leaning towards reusable ice cause you know tecs are absolute garbage in terms of power efficiency and with the 72w tec i have i think itll take a really long time to even start noticably cooling the loop, sure they can reach subzero idle but they are hot trash if i want to try actually putting a load on the cpu Ah well ill have to build the loop and see what happens, if i go the icebox route my concept is just stick a rad in a box and fill the box with ice xD Oh for sure you can get quick disconnects. TEC talk? I think you might spark an interesting conversation. I've done quite a bit of TEC cooling. I can tell you a 72w TEC is good for a NB. Most NB chips are 10-15w, so it'll easily freeze. You want to cool a processor with a TEC, well that's a little bit different. But it's doable. There's a thread here somewhere with a 2700X at 4ghz under 1.2v. Should spark some interest there. Obviously my goals where a little different than using it every day. All experimental. I replaced the shitty little IHS plate with something about twice the size and mass to increase the temp gradient. In other words it would take twice as long to freeze the plate to a good temperature (-30c idle cpu) and thus twice as long to reach a positive temp (above freezing) and keep stabilty. No more than a quick cinebench run, anything else, stayed pretty frozen. So it IS possible, you just need the right TEC, cold water delta for the loop on the TEC and should be able to cool just about any 65w chip (modern 12nm and smaller) frozen to the core with ease. For the older stuff, the same approach with the cold plate should be taken. IHS plates are kind of too small for TEC adventures. |
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Post by Bones on Sept 20, 2021 21:42:44 GMT -5
You'll find it easier, cheaper and more viable to have a simple res you can dump ice into.
Burying the rad in ice does work and you can do that if you want, I have a res I setup with a large opening at the top so I can dump ice directly into the water itself and there is no rad at all in the setup. If just having the rad setup normally it will induce heat instead of removing it so that works against you.
Luckily for me there's an ice house less then 5 minutes away from here so I can take the big cooler and get ice in bulk whenever I need it - You're probrably not in the same situation with that but having access to an ice machine somewhere is really nice to have.
I've tried all kinds of watercooling, even did DICE (Dry Ice) into the water as well and that, although the water did get COLD didn't work out so well when everything started freezing up.
The system was running hot due to no coolant flow and I even had antifreeze in it too.
If you want advice about a potential setup you can start a thread in the watercooling section and we'll go from there.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 21, 2021 0:23:44 GMT -5
I was thinking more like a regular custom loop but with the ability to disconnect the rads via valves or something so i can just stick some ice in the res, issue being that ill use antifreeze so i dont wanna f up the mixture so maybe ill put an ice chamber or something but idk yet I think ill go about my ocing with reusable ice or a tec to cool the waterloop, though im leaning towards reusable ice cause you know tecs are absolute garbage in terms of power efficiency and with the 72w tec i have i think itll take a really long time to even start noticably cooling the loop, sure they can reach subzero idle but they are hot trash if i want to try actually putting a load on the cpu Ah well ill have to build the loop and see what happens, if i go the icebox route my concept is just stick a rad in a box and fill the box with ice xD Oh for sure you can get quick disconnects. TEC talk? I think you might spark an interesting conversation. I've done quite a bit of TEC cooling. I can tell you a 72w TEC is good for a NB. Most NB chips are 10-15w, so it'll easily freeze. You want to cool a processor with a TEC, well that's a little bit different. But it's doable. There's a thread here somewhere with a 2700X at 4ghz under 1.2v. Should spark some interest there. Obviously my goals where a little different than using it every day. All experimental. I replaced the shitty little IHS plate with something about twice the size and mass to increase the temp gradient. In other words it would take twice as long to freeze the plate to a good temperature (-30c idle cpu) and thus twice as long to reach a positive temp (above freezing) and keep stabilty. No more than a quick cinebench run, anything else, stayed pretty frozen. So it IS possible, you just need the right TEC, cold water delta for the loop on the TEC and should be able to cool just about any 65w chip (modern 12nm and smaller) frozen to the core with ease. For the older stuff, the same approach with the cold plate should be taken. IHS plates are kind of too small for TEC adventures. I was thinking that a tec would work for an nb, though would it do anything if i set my nb to something like 1.8 or 1.9v? Cause just putting a load on my e5400 oced to 3.8ghz 1.25v immedeatly shoots up to 100c and just throttles hard Currently i have a 12706 tec (12v x 6a = 72w), i could hook it up to a boost converter or hook the positive to a 12v + 5v wire for 17v for ~102w (17v x 6a = 102w) or i could buy a 12710 or even 12715 tec for 120 or 180w (the latter being unusable unless i have a watercooler) And i think i need the full surface area of the tec to be adapted to cool a tiny nb chip so might need some copper plates and solder em together Not to mention having to mount, cool, etc. Though it might be worth it for the stability Im thinking of just sticking an 80mm tower on my nb directly and mounting with a custom mount (prob zipties) or just watercooling the nb altogether instead of going tec, though ill def consider tec for nb |
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 21, 2021 0:32:24 GMT -5
You'll find it easier, cheaper and more viable to have a simple res you can dump ice into. Burying the rad in ice does work and you can do that if you want, I have a res I setup with a large opening at the top so I can dump ice directly into the water itself and there is no rad at all in the setup. If just having the rad setup normally it will induce heat instead of removing it so that works against you. Luckily for me there's an ice house less then 5 minutes away from here so I can take the big cooler and get ice in bulk whenever I need it - You're probrably not in the same situation with that but having access to an ice machine somewhere is really nice to have. I've tried all kinds of watercooling, even did DICE (Dry Ice) into the water as well and that, although the water did get COLD didn't work out so well when everything started freezing up. The system was running hot due to no coolant flow and I even had antifreeze in it too. If you want advice about a potential setup you can start a thread in the watercooling section and we'll go from there. So i guess i should just build a copper tub, stick it ontop of the cpu, and stick a bunch of ice in it? I guess that would work though id have to refill the ice pretty often Actually if i can just stick a bunch of ice directly above the cpu then theres no need for a loop, and since im gonna run my loop off a second psu anyways i can just turn that psu off, take the cpu block off and then i can just stick the ice block on |
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Post by Bones on Sept 21, 2021 1:51:17 GMT -5
You'll find it easier, cheaper and more viable to have a simple res you can dump ice into. Burying the rad in ice does work and you can do that if you want, I have a res I setup with a large opening at the top so I can dump ice directly into the water itself and there is no rad at all in the setup. If just having the rad setup normally it will induce heat instead of removing it so that works against you. Luckily for me there's an ice house less then 5 minutes away from here so I can take the big cooler and get ice in bulk whenever I need it - You're probrably not in the same situation with that but having access to an ice machine somewhere is really nice to have. I've tried all kinds of watercooling, even did DICE (Dry Ice) into the water as well and that, although the water did get COLD didn't work out so well when everything started freezing up. The system was running hot due to no coolant flow and I even had antifreeze in it too. If you want advice about a potential setup you can start a thread in the watercooling section and we'll go from there. So i guess i should just build a copper tub, stick it ontop of the cpu, and stick a bunch of ice in it? I guess that would work though id have to refill the ice pretty often Actually if i can just stick a bunch of ice directly above the cpu then theres no need for a loop, and since im gonna run my loop off a second psu anyways i can just turn that psu off, take the cpu block off and then i can just stick the ice block on You're describing a pot, that will not work well, plus as the water evaporates you'd need to keep it topped off and all it would take is a minor spill while topping off - Dead system. And remember as the ice melts it turns into water and once the "Pot" is full, that's it - You can't add any more ice to it. As said if you want to design something, create a thread in the watercooling part of the forum and I can help with that. BTW I believe you guys will LOVE what I've managed to create this evening - Provided it works in the first place and I don't see why it woudn't barring an F-up on my part.  More later after the reassembly, setup, testing and so on of it. |
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 21, 2021 3:29:21 GMT -5
So i guess i should just build a copper tub, stick it ontop of the cpu, and stick a bunch of ice in it? I guess that would work though id have to refill the ice pretty often Actually if i can just stick a bunch of ice directly above the cpu then theres no need for a loop, and since im gonna run my loop off a second psu anyways i can just turn that psu off, take the cpu block off and then i can just stick the ice block on You're describing a pot, that will not work well, plus as the water evaporates you'd need to keep it topped off and all it would take is a minor spill while topping off - Dead system. And remember as the ice melts it turns into water and once the "Pot" is full, that's it - You can't add any more ice to it. As said if you want to design something, create a thread in the watercooling part of the forum and I can help with that. BTW I believe you guys will LOVE what I've managed to create this evening - Provided it works in the first place and I don't see why it woudn't barring an F-up on my part. More later after the reassembly, setup, testing and so on of it. Guess if i go the pot route ill prob make something to safely dunk the ice in and drain the pot And since ill be using some ice in the fridge i can just pour that ice into a mug, stick it into the freezer, then just break up the ice and start the process all over Or can i just make a pot the size of one of my glasses and when i go to dunk the ice i just dunk it without breaking it up all in one go to basically fill the entire pot with a solid cylinder of ice Yea i think i should just make a thread at this point, though does dunking a solid cylinder of ice in a pot count as watercooling? |
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Post by Bones on Sept 21, 2021 3:50:02 GMT -5
That would be called "Chilled" and at the bot it will put you in the "Apprentice" category.
Anything that's using an artificial means of cooling (Changing and maintaining temperature) counts towards that.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 21, 2021 4:44:30 GMT -5
That would be called "Chilled" and at the bot it will put you in the "Apprentice" category. Anything that's using an artificial means of cooling (Changing and maintaining temperature) counts towards that. Only important thing i should subzero over prolonged periods of time (via tec) is prob just the nb for higher fsb Otherwise just putting a slug of ice ontop of my cpu isnt gonna be very viable if i want to do it over prolonged periods of time I think ill just focus on modding lower end boards to go at ridicolous fsbs since the high end like p35 p45 etc are already pretty crowded Btw how do i monitor nb temps? Cause i dont want it to randomly overheat when i start shoving some volts through it, How much tec wattage do i need to keep the nb at subzero if i shove a high volt like 1.9 on it? And for lower end boards like g31, do i need to improve the nb power delivery? And if so how do i go about improving nb power delivery? Do i need better caps? Mosfets? Or something else? |
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Post by Vinster on Sept 22, 2021 7:45:38 GMT -5
Welcome to W9, you're in great hands here with those questions.
Vin
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Post by freeagent on Sept 29, 2021 11:38:23 GMT -5
Hey! Have fun  |
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