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Post by Bones on Jul 11, 2021 1:44:57 GMT -5
OK - I've decided to abandon the old project with "Squeak" for various reasons, some being cost to complete and so on. I also have a few personal reasons too, which at least a couple are Spouse-related and no, she never said I had to stop - In fact she was asking me why herself. Anyway with her condition (MS) I didn't want something that would be to much for her to handle in the first place. 500+ HP under the hood can be a quick invitation to a power pole or the ditch and had to consider it, esp if there is ever a time she would HAVE to drive it. This engine is strong enough it will break the rear tires loose just going up a hill in wet weather, not even feeding it more gas to go up it because it's done it to me several times before. Had to consider all that and had a few doubts..... Then another one appeared and I didn't even have to go looking for it - It literally appeared on it's own to me.  And it was something I had always wanted, not for racing but more for cruising around and since now it's me AND her it's perfect. It's a 1964 Falcon Sprint Convertible with the 260 V8, 2-speed auto trans and it's all there (Original) from what I was told and can tell by looking at it. It's also (Supposedly) a rare variant of the Sprint convertible model, not sure how rare but ATM I was told with it's original color scheme and how it was equipped it's a fairly rare bird. I will be test-firing the engine later this week to see if it hits and how well it runs like I did with the BB and maybe it will fire up and be OK as is. The body itself is in MUCH better shape than the GT making the cost to fixup and have something nice less and really for what I had in mind anyway, it's just a better fit for my purpose. BTW the grill is from a 65 so I'll have to locate the correct grille for it one day. She's rough but ready and will update progress as it goes.    |
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jul 11, 2021 8:23:34 GMT -5
It's rare because there were only 4278 of them made.
The V8 / auto combo makes it an odd duck. Most V8's were stick cars.
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Post by Bones on Jul 11, 2021 16:00:29 GMT -5
It's rare because there were only 4278 of them made. The V8 / auto combo makes it an odd duck. Most V8's were stick cars. I was told that most V8 cars having a manual is a myth, in fact out of all Falcons period automatics were in the majority across the board...... However - Since Sprints are all V8 cars the majority of them were supposedly manual trans cars and of course the 4-speed was the popular option to go with.
Also out of those nearly all had the bucket seats and console too.
Mine being an auto with the 50/50 bench seat (No console) makes it much rarer within the already rare family of Sprints in the first place.
One guy in the Falcon club has a book with production values of and within models, it says of those that had the 50/50 bench seat like this one, only 626 were made.
Throw in the fact this one is what's known as a "Triple Black" car (Black paint, interior and convertible top) that makes is all the more rare and one source says only 50 like it were ever made with those color/paint options - Can't confirm it but that's what this particular source said and that supposedly covers ALL convertibles, not just those from the Sprint lineup but includes the Futura and standard model convertibles too.
If I were able to have a Marti report done this one would most likely be close to "Unique" the way it's optioned.
Marti reports for Fords can only go back to 1967 due to a fire that destroyed production records from 1966 and back, the time period this one was made.
BTW concerning the doorplate with body and option codes:
The Warranty VIN, matches the VIN numbers under the hood so I know it's a 100% genuine Sprint.
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Post by MetalRacer on Jul 11, 2021 19:50:55 GMT -5
Great project car! Those Falcons are sharp looking.
One of my older brothers had a nice 1963 Sprint that was black with a red interior,it sure was a sweet ride.
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Post by zila1 on Jul 11, 2021 23:10:30 GMT -5
When I was a little boy(7 years old)I remember the young guy that lived in the upstairs apartment from us had a 1965 Ford Falcon Convertible. His Dad bought it for him. It was red and white. Gorgeous car. The kid was always washing and waxing it in the back yard. He had lots of girl friends. The car was a chick magnet.
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Post by Bones on Jul 12, 2021 5:07:00 GMT -5
I'm hoping once this one is ready it too will be a sweet ride to cruise in.
It's too bad I'm having to leave out the performance part of what I wanted but at the same time I'm cool about it, things being what they are just makes it have to be like that.
I'll be listing the GT with everything I've got for it later and that includes the engine and all else as a complete package for someone else to have as a project they can do for themselves.
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Post by Aleslammer on Jul 12, 2021 9:06:18 GMT -5
I had a 65 Ranchero same engine but a manual 3 speed. Cousin had a 65 Falcon but it was a 289, 4 speed hard top. Mother bought a 2 door 62 with the small 6 and 3 speed on the column big step up from the Fiat it replaced at least from my thinking, at 8 had room to lay down in the back seat in the Falcon on long trips. Fiat couple bags of groceries and the driver, car was full.
My only suggestion if you are going to drive it more than a couple times a year is to put disc on the corners or at least look for a period power assist if going total stock, drums suck now a days. Anything on the dirty side of the car should be interchangeable with Mustang parts, there are few books floating around that show what what as well as other vehicles that used the same part. I used it more to keep prices down as the Mustang name added a big chunk to the price compared to say a F100 part at the time I was fixing up a 67 Mustang for my daughter but now all are more or less collector related so don't know if it would save you any money or not.
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Post by Bones on Jul 12, 2021 21:59:32 GMT -5
I had a 65 Ranchero same engine but a manual 3 speed. Cousin had a 65 Falcon but it was a 289, 4 speed hard top. Mother bought a 2 door 62 with the small 6 and 3 speed on the column big step up from the Fiat it replaced at least from my thinking, at 8 had room to lay down in the back seat in the Falcon on long trips. Fiat couple bags of groceries and the driver, car was full. My only suggestion if you are going to drive it more than a couple times a year is to put disc on the corners or at least look for a period power assist if going total stock, drums suck now a days. Anything on the dirty side of the car should be interchangeable with Mustang parts, there are few books floating around that show what what as well as other vehicles that used the same part. I used it more to keep prices down as the Mustang name added a big chunk to the price compared to say a F100 part at the time I was fixing up a 67 Mustang for my daughter but now all are more or less collector related so don't know if it would save you any money or not. Yes, anytime you say "Mustang" the price goes up with everything from parts to insurance. I also agree, discs on the front are one thing to look into and I've already considered it. Good thing is aside from what makes the engine a 289 or 302 most parts will interchange, based on year model of course. If for example I'd need a water pump, grabbing a pump for a 70 pickup with a 302 for example would probrably be cheaper or at least as cheap as it would get. This one doesn't have power steering and as light as the car is I may not need to worry about it too much but disc brakes would be a nice addition. I've driven all drum brake cars before and I'd rather have them (Discs) in any case to ensure good stopping power. There are kits you can get for that purpose, expensive but at least it can be done. ATM I'm getting ready to test fire the engine, already changed the oil and the idiots that had it were trying to fire it off with bad oil in the engine, had water mixed in with it. Luckily it never fired off for them or the engine probrably would have been toast, I do know some work was put into into it by them replacing the distributor with an all new unit and a few other things too..... But trying to run it with bad oil, not exactly a stroke of genius on their part. Also have some wiring that's butchered to get right too. |
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Post by Bones on Jul 13, 2021 23:34:57 GMT -5
Didn't get to fire it off today but solved an ignition problem caused by those jackleg mechs.
During the time I had to tinker with it I figured out why it didn't have any spark, they didn't hookup the points correctly, had the condensor grounded to the plate instead of on the fastening nuts of the points with the distributor pigtail like it should be. The points themselves had more gap than the grand canyon too and could tell easily they were gapped WAY too far.
That also because a problem because the very act of loosening the holding screws to the points so I could gap them caused one of the screws to strip out. Maybe due to those guys messing with it before or maybe because it was made of Chinesium......
Either way I had to go and get a slightly longer screw since this one was "Just enough" to hold it but absolutely no more. That not only fixed it but made it easier to work with too.
Engine itself turns over well and I believe tomorrow it's gonna make some noise since aside from mounting up the carb correctly it's ready to test fire.
Gonna do a vid of what happens with that.
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Post by Bones on Jul 14, 2021 17:42:18 GMT -5
UPDATE:
More later as I get it ready for an extended run to see how it does once up to temperature.
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Post by zila1 on Jul 14, 2021 20:14:44 GMT -5
Folks today don't know jack about ignition points. Years ago I setup a 1970 Monte Carlo SS 454 for some guys. They were messing with that 454 for 6 months Rods. Engine just cranking it's ass off and never catching. So I ask, Did you set the points? Did you setup dwell? Timing? Idle speed? They had that deer in the headlights look on their faces. ROFLMAO
They F'd with that 454 for 6 months and got nowhere. I had that bastard peeling out of the garage in 30 minutes. LOL
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Post by Bones on Jul 15, 2021 6:51:35 GMT -5
Folks today don't know jack about ignition points. Years ago I setup a 1970 Monte Carlo SS 454 for some guys. They were messing with that 454 for 6 months Rods. Engine just cranking it's ass off and never catching. So I ask, Did you set the points? Did you setup dwell? Timing? Idle speed? They had that deer in the headlights look on their faces. ROFLMAO They F'd with that 454 for 6 months and got nowhere. I had that bastard peeling out of the garage in 30 minutes. LOL Love it. There are still alot of things I don't know but I knew enough to get this sorted and have it to hit and run. Today I'll be setting it up to actually run for a few minutes, get warmed up and see how it really does. Although I never saw any smoke that doesn't mean it won't or coudn't, letting it run for a little while will reveal if it's going to or not. I already knew based on what I found the engine would have suffered with the bad oil in it once it had started to go but for how long? I'm glad that question won't have to be answered for that reason. |
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Post by zila1 on Jul 15, 2021 17:52:43 GMT -5
Those old cars are real fun to work on and play with. You get a "feel" for them.
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Post by Bones on Jul 15, 2021 20:57:44 GMT -5
Getting a feel for this one already.
Setting it up today for some runtime had the engine fire up without a hitch and it ran for a few (5-10 minutes).
No blue smoke seen at all even after it got to temp and that's a good sign but right now it does have a skip. The mechanicals (Rocker arms, lifters and such) did sound a little rough at first (Noisey) but smoothed out as it ran, the valve train noise it had at first got alot better (Quieter) and it all just seemed to settle in like you'd want it to.
Even with the induced engine shake from the skip it actually looked to smooth out a little and run better, visibly shaking less towards the end of the run.
Adjusted the carb idle speed and plugged a few vaccum leaks I found so it idles like it's supposed to during this.
I'll need to look into the skip possibly induced by those jacklegs trying to get it to start, may have gas fouled a plug messing with it (Dumping fuel in the carb) so that's the next thing to check; Pull the plugs, clean them, make sure they are gapped to spec and try it again.
Also need to get some wiring looms for the plug wires to neaten things up and keep them off the exhaust manifolds.
It's crazy alot of the work had already been done and apparently with no result but all that probrably led to it coming to me in the first place.... Which I'm happy about.
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Post by Bones on Jul 16, 2021 11:48:55 GMT -5
Did a vid this morning of it running after doing a little more work to it.
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Post by Vinster on Jul 18, 2021 14:28:43 GMT -5
I love how it just fires up. Great sound.
Vin
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Post by Bones on Nov 11, 2021 23:49:38 GMT -5
Went up today to check the antifreeze in it for making sure it was ready for cold weather. I thought I had used plain water when I did the engine run since it was Summertime but turns out I did use antifeeze to fill the radiator. The coolant was green as grass so that was one thing less to worry about.
And since I already had the stuff with me to run it I decided to try it again.
Did that to see if the fact it had been sitting for awhile (Since late July) would show me something I missed because of all the tinkering done at that time such as spinning the engine over while tinkering for example made it more prone to start vs it just sitting and starting up cold-turkey.
Didn't have to do much, within two literal turns of the engine with the starter it fired right up as it had before.
Let it run for about 15-20 minutes to get some heat in it and as before the more it ran the better it did. The skip it's got is still there but as I've discussed with the guys in the shop, it's probrably from it having sat outdoors for as long as it had and there is a chance just running it will eventually take care of it.
And if not I know what to do.
I will say the longer it ran the smoother it got and even the skip itself got a little better too. Revving it a bit during and after it had fully warmed up showed no signs of it smoking, none seen at all period and didn't note any excessive blowby from the crankcase, in fact didn't notice any period (Not that I was looking for it mind you) but if it had some, I would have seen it coming out.
The fact it started as quickly as it did confirmed the engine overall is healthy, you won't have one so easy to start if it's not making good vaccum to draw the air/fuel mix in as well as it did to just start right up. That means the rings in it are at least "Good"....
But there is still the possibility of something wrong anyway due to the skip it's got - TBH I can't rule anything out because of it.
I'll do a compression test later (As in way later) after it's had a chance to run for awhile to allow everything like the rings to fully reseat for getting an accurate reading on each cylinder. I'm betting if it's a valve causing the skip it will show but really hoping it's just a bad wire or something, I will retime and tune it before actually driving it around once it's ready for all that.
Speaking of driving, I'm still not sure if the trans is healthy/good or not, the brakes aren't working and not going to pop it in gear with no brakes and have it like a bull in a china shop among everything in there - And there is ALOT of stuff around it like a 65 Mustang fastback, a 57 T-Bird, a pair of 69/70 Chargers, 63 Nova, an original 65 Impala SS 396 car....
You get it.
Anyway, just need to guys at the bodyshop to do their thing, get a top and interior done to make it ready and we'll see.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Nov 12, 2021 22:19:58 GMT -5
Went up today to check the antifreeze in it for making sure it was ready for cold weather. I thought I had used plain water when I did the engine run since it was Summertime but turns out I did use antifeeze to fill the radiator. The coolant was green as grass so that was one thing less to worry about. And since I already had the stuff with me to run it I decided to try it again. Did that to see if the fact it had been sitting for awhile (Since late July) would show me something I missed because of all the tinkering done at that time such as spinning the engine over while tinkering for example made it more prone to start vs it just sitting and starting up cold-turkey. Didn't have to do much, within two literal turns of the engine with the starter it fired right up as it had before. Let it run for about 15-20 minutes to get some heat in it and as before the more it ran the better it did. The skip it's got is still there but as I've discussed with the guys in the shop, it's probrably from it having sat outdoors for as long as it had and there is a chance just running it will eventually take care of it. And if not I know what to do. I will say the longer it ran the smoother it got and even the skip itself got a little better too. Revving it a bit during and after it had fully warmed up showed no signs of it smoking, none seen at all period and didn't note any excessive blowby from the crankcase, in fact didn't notice any period (Not that I was looking for it mind you) but if it had some, I would have seen it coming out. The fact it started as quickly as it did confirmed the engine overall is healthy, you won't have one so easy to start if it's not making good vaccum to draw the air/fuel mix in as well as it did to just start right up. That means the rings in it are at least "Good".... But there is still the possibility of something wrong anyway due to the skip it's got - TBH I can't rule anything out because of it. I'll do a compression test later (As in way later) after it's had a chance to run for awhile to allow everything like the rings to fully reseat for getting an accurate reading on each cylinder. I'm betting if it's a valve causing the skip it will show but really hoping it's just a bad wire or something, I will retime and tune it before actually driving it around once it's ready for all that. Speaking of driving, I'm still not sure if the trans is healthy/good or not, the brakes aren't working and not going to pop it in gear with no brakes and have it like a bull in a china shop among everything in there - And there is ALOT of stuff around it like a 65 Mustang fastback, a 57 T-Bird, a pair of 69/70 Chargers, 63 Nova, an original 65 Impala SS 396 car.... You get it. Anyway, just need to guys at the bodyshop to do their thing, get a top and interior done to make it ready and we'll see. Pop it in gear without brakes. You'll be fine. Wheel chuck it. If the miss goes away with that small load, I wouldn't worry about it. Most cars miss most at idle vs load. If anything it may just need the distributer rebuilt. Maybe just the coil. But if it's running as well as you say, I'd bet it'll pass that compression test. You know darn well vacuum is important. When I got my 77' I replaced all the vacuum lines first thing with the tune up. That 425 purred like a kitten. Coil took a shit 3 blocks from my house, pushed it all the way to the court before I couldn't push any more haha. F'n car was heavy. My old man couldn't believe I made it up the hill by myself. I told him didn't want to leave it down the street ya know. The neighborhood we lived in was fine, but a few blocks over, not so good. Thugs spray painted one of the houses to the subdivision one year.... Anyhow, sounds like a healthy engine from your description that will require nothing more than some good old TLC. |
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Post by Bones on Nov 13, 2021 1:19:15 GMT -5
Distributor is brandnew and was in it when I got it. No way I'm risking having it do damage to all those vehicles, best, risk-free way to check the trans is to get the rear wheels off the ground and check it that way and I've already thought about that. Coil itself is good and it's one of the "Good" Accel ones that's yellow, had plenty of spark when I checked it before the initial engine test. Still have the coil that was in it (Also brandnew) and it looks good but since I've already got the Accel coil in I'll just go with that. Wasn't sure at the time why it wasn't getting fire so popped the yellow one in and found later how they had messed up the condensor when they put it in. I agree a load on it will really show what's it's about but since right now I'm having to hotwire it to run (Ignition switch wiring is completely chopped) I can't just start or cut it of that way. Some genius thought it would be a great idea (NOT) to cut the wires to the switch and that's something I have to fix, in fact they chopped (Looks like) all the major wiring in it so that's how it is.
Not worried, I can get it right and it'll be OK.
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Post by Bones on May 26, 2022 12:34:11 GMT -5
Getting back to this, the floorpans are done and hopefully getting some needed parts soon. This is the place doing the work and this is their channel, occasionally they'll post a vid about some of the work they do. One day mine will be there too but this is what they've got for now. www.youtube.com/channel/UC33nsOSoyo213FyekIkgRWQ |
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Post by Bones on Aug 11, 2022 23:50:56 GMT -5
Earlier today I tested the trans to see if it works and it does.
Jacked it up, set the rear axle on jackstands with the front wheels chocked both ways and tried it. Right now everything seems to work and I have reverse and both foward gears so that's a good sign but the real test comes later when it's driving the car. If there is any slippage that's when it's gonna show.
I did note a bit of a leak from the rear so a new pinion seal will have to be installed to correct that issue but the rear is quiet, no roaring or other signs of trouble so far.
I let it run for about 30-40 minutes in gear to let the trans get sone heat in it and to check for leaks - Believe it or not no leaks were seen anywhere underneath aside from one right at the radiator, coming from one of the trans cooler lines and that only appeared right at the end of testing. I'll redo these connections because I am replacing the radiator and adding a trans cooler so all that will be right in the end.
With that, next thing to tackle are the brakes.
I'm approaching it in three basic steps - Run, go and stop being the basis of this.
Two of the three are OK for now, the last I will tackle before long and will be starting off with a new brake master cylinder and go from there.
Wheel cylinders, drums and shoes of course are on the list as well but only after I get the master cylinder sorted.
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Post by eidairman1 on Nov 23, 2023 23:15:20 GMT -5
Well My truck just became a project, the 4.8 seized 2 days ago due to low oil pressure warning, trying to get a 5.3 as a drop in now...
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Post by Bones on Nov 24, 2023 13:31:35 GMT -5
Well My truck just became a project, the 4.8 seized 2 days ago due to low oil pressure warning, trying to get a 5.3 as a drop in now... I'm sorry to hear it, maybe you'll find one and drop it in without any hassles to it. |
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Post by eidairman1 on Nov 24, 2023 16:29:07 GMT -5
Well My truck just became a project, the 4.8 seized 2 days ago due to low oil pressure warning, trying to get a 5.3 as a drop in now... I'm sorry to hear it, maybe you'll find one and drop it in without any hassles to it. Yeah its only with the L59(FlexFuel 5.3L) or LQ4/LQ9 (6.0L) engines that did some changes in the computer, LR4(4.8), LM7/L33 (5.3L) will work just fine without special tuning |
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