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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 29, 2016 22:14:12 GMT -5
Welcome to the site, best place I've found CPU's are from mom and pop local computer shops. when I was heavy benching I'd get a handful of CPU's for a coffee. Vin yea I will have to check around I found a deal on 21 cpu working and non working for $15 on ebay even if I got 10 that were bad 11 cpus for $15 varying in 775 socket I used to have tons of the stuff but left it all when I moved outta start for a few months I am gonna start collecting again gonna grab an LN2 pot for Dice from kingpin cooling just wanna get my stock of CPUs and mobos up before I drop the $250+ on that lol |
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Post by Vinster on Aug 29, 2016 22:19:29 GMT -5
DICE specific pots have a bigger mouth than LN2 specific pots. Just keep that in mind when shopping.
Vin
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 29, 2016 22:23:47 GMT -5
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 30, 2016 2:18:33 GMT -5
Yep you are looking at the right one I use a Dragon F1.
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 30, 2016 9:38:14 GMT -5
awesome man I figured that one would be best cause it was so tall and it would hold more lol
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Post by Vinster on Aug 30, 2016 10:08:41 GMT -5
awesome man I figured that one would be best cause it was so tall and it would hold more lol yep, you should go with the taller one if you plan on going LN2. if you'd only ever go with DICE, then I'd go with the stubby one. Vin |
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 30, 2016 11:28:14 GMT -5
awesome man I figured that one would be best cause it was so tall and it would hold more lol yep, you should go with the taller one if you plan on going LN2. if you'd only ever go with DICE, then I'd go with the stubby one. Vin yeah I plan on LN2 one day the stuff is cheap here in town lol its just the containers that cost a lot esp for one more then 3L lol |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 30, 2016 17:15:17 GMT -5
That pot in your pic is a Gemini the nickel plated bottom comes off and it is a lot faster Pot. Mine is the one piece F1 Dark it still has the extension tube on the top which I dont use on LN2. The Dark is a lot heavier and slower which makes it easier to control the temps on say a -37 cold bugged CPU while using Nitrogen. Vin you got that wrong there the taller one is better for dice not LN2. LN2 doesnt splash as much as the Acetone does.  |
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 30, 2016 20:35:03 GMT -5
the pot in the top pick is a F1 Gemini 2.0 Anodized Red F1 Gemini kits ship with TWO solid copper design bases for LN2 use, one FAST base (for cpus without coldbugs where very fast pull down is needed) and one SLOW base (for cpus where stringent temperature control is needed due to processor coldbug). so that should be good right?  |
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 30, 2016 20:37:18 GMT -5
That pot in your pic is a Gemini the nickel plated bottom comes off and it is a lot faster Pot. Mine is the one piece F1 Dark it still has the extension tube on the top which I dont use on LN2. The Dark is a lot heavier and slower which makes it easier to control the temps on say a -37 cold bugged CPU while using Nitrogen. Vin you got that wrong there the taller one is better for dice not LN2. LN2 doesnt splash as much as the Acetone does. and I talked to Kingpin he said the version 2.0 the nickel doesnt come off like before |
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 30, 2016 23:26:22 GMT -5
you guys have a list of good no cold bug cpus I know the AMD phenom II dont but are there anymore I would like to try some without bugs before I get into that mess lol or even how to start ones up with cold bugs
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 31, 2016 3:00:11 GMT -5
The main CPU's with coldbug are AM2 and 939.
AM2 Windsors will go to around -37
AM2 Brisbanes arnt much good cold 0 degrees is about their limit.
939 some Sandiego single cores wile go down to -37 but most of the rest are like Brisbanes.
Most everything else is okay
Intels will go down to -120 so their is no problem with Dice there
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 31, 2016 9:36:41 GMT -5
awesome man thanks I will try my luck with intels 1st then and see how it goes I really want to try subzero overclocking I wanna join the 6ghz club lmao
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Post by Vinster on Aug 31, 2016 9:56:32 GMT -5
Vin you got that wrong there the taller one is better for dice not LN2. LN2 doesnt splash as much as the Acetone does. Ah, OK. I always used a chopped funnel on the top of my POT so I could stack the DICE on top of it. I only ever experiences a splash on the initial start. Vin |
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Post by blaylock on Aug 31, 2016 10:16:32 GMT -5
If you put your DICE in first then pour your acetone that will eliminate 90% of the splash too. Good luck Shady I hope you get some good results.
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 31, 2016 13:15:07 GMT -5
thanks I am gonna try the pellets that a local dice place has and try the dice 1st method Kingpin said the same thing when I asked him about it but I get 1 email back from him like every few weeks much easier to ask questions here lmao
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 31, 2016 17:56:12 GMT -5
Your main thing to worry about is insulating the board if you want them to live.
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Post by Shadyreaper on Aug 31, 2016 22:05:14 GMT -5
yeah I seen some real good guides on how to seal it up to keep it from frying out if I wanted to keep using the setup you dont have to tear it down every time right I can leave it together in case I wanna do more tests the next day or should I take the pot off at least and re paste it
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Sept 1, 2016 10:38:25 GMT -5
I have used Liquid electrical tape (LET), Placticine, art eraser, and Vaso with foam pads. These days I just use Vaso with foam pads and blue shop towel. A picture is worth a thousand words with your Kingpin pot you will get a black closed cell foam pad like in the first pic and a foot and a half of the black foam tube that is on the pot. The first thing I do is make my closed cell foam pad to go around the CPU socket and for the foam tube on the pot to sit on. If you zoom in on the forth pic you will see the sort closed cell white foam that I use. The Important thing is to seal off the CPU area from the outside air no water will form in there if it is sealed well. You have to seal the back of the board with something weather you use liquid electrical tape or vaso is up to you but it does have to be sealed when I used to use my homemade pot I used to use standard backing plates and smear plasticine around the backing plate, ice will form on the back of the board. Then I sit the board on the foam pad with the studs sticking through and put a coat of vaso (again you can use LET)around the cpu socket you only have to go out to the memory slots and over to the VRM heatsinks down close to the PCIe slot and up near the top of the board for Dice. Then I put my foam pad down over the studs and put thermal compound on the CPU and lower the pot down and clamp it down. Thats about it for Dice. For LN2 I do a bit extra I take the heatsinks off the mosfets and coat vaso over the mosfets all the way to the back panel IO ports and out around the ends of the memory slots and down to the PCIe slot and up to the top of the board then I put the heatsinks on straight over the vaso. Also for LN2 I use a fair bit of paper towel as extra insulation you tend to get ice forming outside of the insulation. In the pic of the full pot of LN2 with all the ice you cant see it in the pic but the memory module closest to the pot is frozen white. I also put vaso in the memory slots for LN2. That was running for over 3 hours. As for your question can you run them the next day I have done so but I dont usually what I do as soon as I am finished is turn the board over and sit it on the studs with the end of the board against the wall so it dont fall over that way any water or ice that turns to water runs off and not on the board. Read plenty of guides. One thing there is a lot of preparation for going cold but once you have got the speed from them you will be hooked.   |
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Post by georgekokovinis on Sept 1, 2016 12:33:54 GMT -5
I have used Liquid electrical tape (LET), Placticine, art eraser, and Vaso with foam pads. These days I just use Vaso with foam pads and blue shop towel. A picture is worth a thousand words with your Kingpin pot you will get a black closed cell foam pad like in the first pic and a foot and a half of the black foam tube that is on the pot. The first thing I do is make my closed cell foam pad to go around the CPU socket and for the foam tube on the pot to sit on. If you zoom in on the forth pic you will see the sort closed cell white foam that I use. The Important thing is to seal off the CPU area from the outside air no water will form in there if it is sealed well. You have to seal the back of the board with something weather you use liquid electrical tape or vaso is up to you but it does have to be sealed when I used to use my homemade pot I used to use standard backing plates and smear plasticine around the backing plate, ice will form on the back of the board. Then I sit the board on the foam pad with the studs sticking through and put a coat of vaso (again you can use LET)around the cpu socket you only have to go out to the memory slots and over to the VRM heatsinks down close to the PCIe slot and up near the top of the board for Dice. Then I put my foam pad down over the studs and put thermal compound on the CPU and lower the pot down and clamp it down. Thats about it for Dice. For LN2 I do a bit extra I take the heatsinks off the mosfets and coat vaso over the mosfets all the way to the back panel IO ports and out around the ends of the memory slots and down to the PCIe slot and up to the top of the board then I put the heatsinks on straight over the vaso. Also for LN2 I use a fair bit of paper towel as extra insulation you tend to get ice forming outside of the insulation. In the pic of the full pot of LN2 with all the ice you cant see it in the pic but the memory module closest to the pot is frozen white. I also put vaso in the memory slots for LN2. That was running for over 3 hours. As for your question can you run them the next day I have done so but I dont usually what I do as soon as I am finished is turn the board over and sit it on the studs with the end of the board against the wall so it dont fall over that way any water or ice that turns to water runs off and not on the board. Read plenty of guides. One thing there is a lot of preparation for going cold but once you have got the speed from them you will be hooked. Experience and wisdom talks ! And indeed a picture is good for 1000 words
By the way, some Intel CPU's that are CB free go down to -190.
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Post by Shadyreaper on Sept 1, 2016 20:54:26 GMT -5
I have used Liquid electrical tape (LET), Placticine, art eraser, and Vaso with foam pads. These days I just use Vaso with foam pads and blue shop towel. A picture is worth a thousand words with your Kingpin pot you will get a black closed cell foam pad like in the first pic and a foot and a half of the black foam tube that is on the pot. The first thing I do is make my closed cell foam pad to go around the CPU socket and for the foam tube on the pot to sit on. If you zoom in on the forth pic you will see the sort closed cell white foam that I use. The Important thing is to seal off the CPU area from the outside air no water will form in there if it is sealed well. You have to seal the back of the board with something weather you use liquid electrical tape or vaso is up to you but it does have to be sealed when I used to use my homemade pot I used to use standard backing plates and smear plasticine around the backing plate, ice will form on the back of the board. Then I sit the board on the foam pad with the studs sticking through and put a coat of vaso (again you can use LET)around the cpu socket you only have to go out to the memory slots and over to the VRM heatsinks down close to the PCIe slot and up near the top of the board for Dice. Then I put my foam pad down over the studs and put thermal compound on the CPU and lower the pot down and clamp it down. Thats about it for Dice. For LN2 I do a bit extra I take the heatsinks off the mosfets and coat vaso over the mosfets all the way to the back panel IO ports and out around the ends of the memory slots and down to the PCIe slot and up to the top of the board then I put the heatsinks on straight over the vaso. Also for LN2 I use a fair bit of paper towel as extra insulation you tend to get ice forming outside of the insulation. In the pic of the full pot of LN2 with all the ice you cant see it in the pic but the memory module closest to the pot is frozen white. I also put vaso in the memory slots for LN2. That was running for over 3 hours. As for your question can you run them the next day I have done so but I dont usually what I do as soon as I am finished is turn the board over and sit it on the studs with the end of the board against the wall so it dont fall over that way any water or ice that turns to water runs off and not on the board. Read plenty of guides. One thing there is a lot of preparation for going cold but once you have got the speed from them you will be hooked. thank you so much for all the info I am super excited to try some dice out I gotta build my wifes PC and water cool mine maybe by then the LN2 pot I want will be back in stock Im gonna start picking up cheap CPUs on the way also I picked up a intel Q2D E6320 it will be here tomorrow gonna keep my eyes on ebay I wanna pick up as many different 775 cpus as I can even a few of the same ones since not every CPU is the same I seen a dude running like 4.8ghz with 1.27v on a 5820k lol I can manage 4.6ghz with 1.35v and he was on an air kinda crazy dunno if his vid is BS or not but there are always those unicorns out there in the silicon world |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 13, 2016 3:22:07 GMT -5
Here are a couple of pics of what I used to do originally with plastalina. You wont be doing a graphics card so dont worry about that for now. I just cover everything as in the picture around the CPU from the top of the board down to the northbridge from the VRM to the memory slots, in the pic it is ready to have the pot clamped down on it. Then after clamping the pot down I build it up with more plastalina around the bottom of the pot to seal it all up. The second pic is of the back of a board you will have to insulate there too as you can see there is ice formed on the backing plate on the board.   |
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 13, 2016 8:26:32 GMT -5
Here are a couple of pics of what I used to do originally with plastalina. You wont be doing a graphics card so dont worry about that for now. I just cover everything as in the picture around the CPU from the top of the board down to the northbridge from the VRM to the memory slots, in the pic it is ready to have the pot clamped down on it. Then after clamping the pot down I build it up with more plastalina around the bottom of the pot to seal it all up. The second pic is of the back of a board you will have to insulate there too as you can see there is ice formed on the backing plate on the board. thanks Mac so you used play doh before I googled plastilina and play doh came up lol if thats the case I will get some from the walmart that stuff is pretty cheap I seen some people saying they used die electric grease on theirs and they put that shit on everything even inside the socket some used vaso in the socket so I am guessing that is safe? |
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 13, 2016 15:15:50 GMT -5
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 13, 2016 15:24:34 GMT -5
yea I dont wanna try to clean the socket out people said you can use electronics cleaner that is plastic safe but knowing my luck it will take the shit off the PCB of the mobo and I dont want that I looked around my house I ended up finding some closed foam sheets I had from my wifes mobo when it was shipped to me its not big enough to do the whole back of the board but I will put putty around the socket and use that to try to seal it the rest of the way up and try to get another piece for the back oh they have the white for $9 in NY that would be super fast getting here www.ebay.com/itm/Van-Aken-Plastalina-Modeling-Clay-white-1-lb-bar-/142100944980?hash=item2115e05854:g:U3YAAOSwFV9Xw9kE |
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Dice pot
Nov 13, 2016 15:33:56 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Vinster on Nov 13, 2016 15:33:56 GMT -5
You can get plasticine from craft and hobby shops. It may also be in the craft department at Walmart.
Another alternative that I've used is sticky tack. Little more expensive than plasticine but works.
Vin
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 13, 2016 15:37:07 GMT -5
cool I will check walmart when I am there weds we have to do our shopping that day I will see how much it is and maybe pick some up we also have a Michael's craft store too I can check
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Dice pot
Nov 13, 2016 15:44:09 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Vinster on Nov 13, 2016 15:44:09 GMT -5
Micheals will have it. That's where I got mine.
Vin
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Post by Shadyreaper on Nov 13, 2016 15:47:02 GMT -5
sweet I will make sure to stop by there it is right up the street from my house
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Post by Bones on Dec 6, 2016 13:54:52 GMT -5
TIP:
It may be to your advantage with chips such as 939's to leave the lid on the chip instead of delidding it or to even set a lid on it if it's been delidded. This will somewhat help combat the problem with it bugging out at lower temps as I discovered earlier, esp if it's right at the point of it wanting to run but seems to bug out before you can get it going with a bench run to maintain some heat in it. If running a delidded chip and it's bugging out, placing it's lid back on will help raise temps a little and that could make all the difference and make sure it's back on the same way/orientation it was before to the CPU itself.
If having to use a different lid, be sure the lid sits completely flat on the chip's core since when delidding the material thickness from the leftover sealant material on the chip itself from the delidding process can vary and make it sit crooked on the core - That's trouble waiting to happen. That's also why even with it's original lid the orientation of the lid as it sits on the chip is critical.
I have to run my 148 that way frozen and get it going quickly before it bugs out but once a run starts it's OK.
Thing to it is "Keep the chip busy" until you can do the setup and begin the bench run. Once you get it started with a run, let it go. Luckily my 148 is kinda friendly with sub-zero but it does what I described, as long as I can keep the chip active/doing work/something it doesn't bug out before I get a run going.
I have to work quickly doing my setup and all and as long as I work fast enough to get things moving it will go.
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