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Post by toxibrokegaming on Mar 21, 2021 0:38:11 GMT -5
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Post by Bones on Mar 21, 2021 2:05:51 GMT -5
If it's submersible as described that means it's designed to run under water so yes, you should be able to run it that way. Up until yesterday I've never heard of HOAT by name so I'll need to look into if it reacts to ceramic - I doubt it but doesn't hurt to check and confirm either. EDIT: (Me) DUH .... That's a common anti-freeze for Asian vehicles so it makes sense how available it is. However I have never heard of "HOAT" and that's what threw me. Looked around and found some reference to it. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze
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Post by toxibrokegaming on Mar 21, 2021 3:18:07 GMT -5
If it's submersible as described that means it's designed to run under water so yes, you should be able to run it that way. Up until yesterday I've never heard of HOAT by name so I'll need to look into if it reacts to ceramic - I doubt it but doesn't hurt to check and confirm either. EDIT: (Me) DUH .... That's a common anti-freeze for Asian vehicles so it makes sense how available it is. However I have never heard of "HOAT" and that's what threw me. Looked around and found some reference to it. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AntifreezeThere probably isn't much in the loop or coolant that would be strong enough to force the ceramic to react. I was only able to find that ceramic based sealants for engine cooling systems is a thing. irontite.com/ceramicmotorseal/#:~:text=Ceramic%20Motor%20Seal%20is%20very,the%20replacement%20injector%20sleeve%20installations.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Mar 21, 2021 8:01:21 GMT -5
It has no effect on ceramics. I've run pretty much all types of coolant through my pumps at one time or another. Only thing that I've seen hurt pumps is straight tap water or well water, because of the ridiculously high mineral content.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Mar 21, 2021 9:56:43 GMT -5
That pump is super similar to mine, I ran windshield washer fluid with a chiller. Straight tap water with Ice in a bucket, but must be cleaned when done benching. Anit-freeze will be fine though, most of the time is lubricating for a pump more than anything.
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Post by toxibrokegaming on Mar 22, 2021 0:57:29 GMT -5
It has no effect on ceramics. I've run pretty much all types of coolant through my pumps at one time or another. Only thing that I've seen hurt pumps is straight tap water or well water, because of the ridiculously high mineral content. Found a chart showing how it reacts with different stuff as well. Seems to be happy with coolants as far as I can tell: www.tdiinternational.com/technical-source-product-info/chemical-compatibility-charts/kd-ceramic/Edit: oh its for some tweezers or something. Never mind. Ceramic is still pretty non reactive so I'm not too scared to use it.
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Post by Bones on Mar 22, 2021 2:50:55 GMT -5
With that known, should be OK to lay out the rest and go for it when ready.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Mar 22, 2021 22:12:46 GMT -5
All this talk about coolant. Was at my brother's over the weekend. He handed me a box of Primochill coolant and blue dye.
I laughed. WTF am I going to do with this? He said, well sell it!!
Dude, you've had this bottle for like 10 years!! OMFG I laughed so hard.
Vintage non conductive coolant for sale!! with FREE dye!!
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Post by toxibrokegaming on Mar 25, 2021 8:25:14 GMT -5
With that known, should be OK to lay out the rest and go for it when ready. I'm just waiting for the pump now. Modding or putting holes in my mid tower PC case with a dremel for the GPU radiator was the easiest part. Modding waterblock mount for rx 480 seemed a bit tricky but not hard and I did it. Really starting to appreciate DIY watercooling. Very satisfying. Will updated with pictures once I have it all together.
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Post by toxibrokegaming on Mar 28, 2021 6:16:01 GMT -5
I settled on this pump and have an adaptor thats compatible with this but I was wondering if I can use 4pin molex cable from PSU to power this thing. Both have 12v but amps are a bit different right? Will I face any issue connecting this to molex 12v and ground pins?
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Post by Bones on Mar 28, 2021 6:55:42 GMT -5
Yes, in fact with the amp draw it has I'd go right ot the PSU with it. Amps are different than Voltage (12v) and your PSU's molex plug will have a 12v pin, as long as the connections are correct it should work, plus the molex plug already has the ground wires it needs. The adapter you have should be wired correctly, including the ground wiring.
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Post by toxibrokegaming on Mar 28, 2021 8:57:13 GMT -5
I was also thinking about using a 12v regulator to be able to manually control the speed of the pump if needed but not sure if the regulator would overheat after using for many hours.
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Post by Vinster on Mar 28, 2021 9:25:21 GMT -5
I was also thinking about using a 12v regulator to be able to manually control the speed of the pump if needed but not sure if the regulator would overheat after using for many hours. if 12V you'd want to use a PWM controller. otherwise you could lose torque on the pump. 6v is much weaker than a 50% 12V PWM pulse.
Vin
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Post by Mr.Scott on Mar 28, 2021 9:41:42 GMT -5
I was also thinking about using a 12v regulator to be able to manually control the speed of the pump if needed but not sure if the regulator would overheat after using for many hours. Not necessary. No need to control pump speed at all.
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Post by toxibrokegaming on Mar 28, 2021 10:53:12 GMT -5
I've also made a SVG file diagram in inkscape for a backplate for rx 480. Its actually a waterblock like this. If it's designed correctly(by me), they will send me a scaled up version of that waterblock with holes for mounting it. Anyone here who can tell if this diagram is good enough to be understood by the machinists? I'm a noob at this. Edit: Also like to clarify,they will do the fins, water flow path etc inside the block in the CNC machine themselves. I just need to tell them how big the water block and where I want the screw holes to be in the water block.
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Post by toxibrokegaming on Mar 28, 2021 11:13:52 GMT -5
I actually don't plan on putting a water block in the back with thermal pads for now but plan to in the future. From what I've seen, the vrm etc only need good airflow to keep cool.
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Post by toxibrokegaming on Apr 1, 2021 9:02:19 GMT -5
Update: I went back to the submerged pump which is small and super quiet instead of the diaphragm pump which is HUGE(palm size) and very loud. I booted up the pc with the gpu and new cooling but still haven't tested anything yet. Will update when I get time to do so.
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Post by toxibrokegaming on Apr 5, 2021 23:54:06 GMT -5
I finished it and learned a lot about watercooling for the first time. The temp maxxed out at 67C at stock voltage and clocks and was stable. I was using a 5yr old gunky thermal paste so not sure if the temps could have been cooler. With Arctic accelero twin turbo 3, the temps were about 78C max on stock voltage and frequency. I will be trying other water blocks as well and see what the difference is. Will make a thread on it once Ive tinkered enough and satisfied with it.
Thanks a lot everyone for helping me get it right.
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Post by Bones on Apr 6, 2021 0:31:38 GMT -5
I'm glad to hear it's alive and working. Keep us posted and feel free to ask anything else you need, that's what we are here for.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2021 0:55:42 GMT -5
I found heatkiller blocks to be the best with my chiller . Just a thought . Using good thermal paste will make a bit of difference .
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