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Post by osmiumoc on Jun 14, 2020 16:59:03 GMT -5
I wondered if crossflashing a bios with higher powerlimits is a thing on the SUPER cards as well? I saw some people had success with that on the non super parts.
Thing is my RTX2080 Super is a reference pcb that I slapped a waterblock onto and it maxes out the afterburner slider for mem-clock (+1500) and shows no signs of instability. It definitly has higher potential in it for memory but I cant overcome that stupid +1500 limit.
At the same time my core craps out at 2115MHz due to the strict powerlimit of 220W. I maxed every slider in afterburner with no success, this bugs me a lot. I mean why even bother with an 8 pin AND a 6 pin when the whole card limits itself to 220W... A single 8 pin would have been overkill still.
Sooo anyone ever heard or seen someone try to crossflash a reference card with an EVGA bios or something similar?
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 14, 2020 18:05:47 GMT -5
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Post by osmiumoc on Jun 14, 2020 18:29:40 GMT -5
Thank you! My card came without USB-C so I'll give this one a try: www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/215173/asus-rtx2080super-8192-190628However I suspect power limits don't do much if the voltage doesn't scale up with it. My card already has a 250W power target and a 270W limit but it never goes beyond 80% TDP in any tests. It rather hits perf-cap reason: Vrel and Vop before any power limit  |
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Post by osmiumoc on Jun 16, 2020 16:03:38 GMT -5
TLDR: Crossflash worked, not worth the hassle. The crossflash did work fine. Card was detected and ran exactly like before but is now subvendor Asus. As for OC it did not improve anything. Just the boostclock curve changed a lot. It does draw a tiny bit more power but the max. voltage stays exactly the same as before and like I expected the max frequency is still 2115 MHz. But on the new bios the clock is a lot more twitchy and jumps all over the place depending on load, where before it was holding certain frequencies. E.g. it now jumps between 2020MHz and 2130MHz in the same scene, which causes more stability issues. Before it held 2050MHz to 2075MHz in the same scene, a lot less variation. The new bios seems to help for very short bursts tho, as it nearly passed a GPUPI run @2130mhz only crashing after it got closer to 40°C. Could maybe make a 2130MHz pass work in the winter when my ambient is better. This was impossible on the old bios as it instantly crashed GPUPI when it got over 2115MHz. The memory still maxes out, haven't found a way to get it past the slider limitation yet. After flashing: 
Before flashing:  |
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 16, 2020 16:30:34 GMT -5
TLDR: Crossflash worked, not worth the hassle. The crossflash did work fine. Card was detected and ran exactly like before but is now subvendor Asus. As for OC it did not improve anything. Just the boostclock curve changed a lot. It does draw a tiny bit more power but the max. voltage stays exactly the same as before and like I expected the max frequency is still 2115 MHz. But on the new bios the clock is a lot more twitchy and jumps all over the place depending on load, where before it was holding certain frequencies. E.g. it now jumps between 2020MHz and 2130MHz in the same scene, which causes more stability issues. Before it held 2050MHz to 2075MHz in the same scene, a lot less variation. The new bios seems to help for very short bursts tho, as it nearly passed a GPUPI run @2130mhz only crashing after it got closer to 40°C. Could maybe make a 2130MHz pass work in the winter when my ambient is better. This was impossible on the old bios as it instantly crashed GPUPI when it got over 2115MHz. The memory still maxes out, haven't found a way to get it past the slider limitation yet. Dude, you're really good at this. Wish you lived close by!! Are you water cooling this card by chance?? |
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Post by osmiumoc on Jun 16, 2020 16:42:34 GMT -5
Dude, you're really good at this. Wish you lived close by!! Are you water cooling this card by chance?? Thanks, but I didn't do much. Risk is minimal for me, I have a hardware flasher on hand if it goes bad. Would just be annoying to take the block off. I can only recommend getting one of these cheap SPI-Flash programmer sets. Saved my ass when I got my X299 Dark with a bios that does not support Cascade Lake. EVGA did send me a chip with a working bios to their credit, but I did not have to wait for it to arrive thanks to my cheap chinese flasher. Yes it is watercooled, but the ambient is terrible atm. No AC and summer starting to show, 23°C room -> 25-28°C water depending on load. |
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 16, 2020 16:53:25 GMT -5
Dude, you're really good at this. Wish you lived close by!! Are you water cooling this card by chance?? Thanks, but I didn't do much. Risk is minimal for me, I have a hardware flasher on hand if it goes bad. Would just be annoying to take the block off. I can only recommend getting one of these cheap SPI-Flash programmer sets. Saved my ass when I got my X299 Dark with a bios that does not support Cascade Lake. EVGA did send me a chip with a working bios to their credit, but I did not have to wait for it to arrive thanks to my cheap chinese flasher. Yes it is watercooled, but the ambient is terrible atm. No AC and summer starting to show, 23°C room -> 25-28°C water depending on load. Yea ambient sucks balls this time of year. Have the same problem. The waterblock is good news  OK so there's 2 things you can accomplish colder temps for very cheap. (I'm hoping to turn you onto something here "devil eyes") So my water loop consists of NO radiators. It's very cost effective for benchmarking as the yields are good. Geothermal or Tap to Drain. Pipe in at the faucet, get the rig close by, and hose to the water block and then to the drain.... Or out the window for the flowers, fill a cup of water to drink..... or just down the drain lol. (about 9c water delta, no fluctuations) The other cheap way for colder temps is simply a small pond pump and a 5 gallon bucket of Ice water. Again no rads.... and the Delta is near freezing. This might require light insulation just in case of condensations. OH - I was just thinking about your room temps..... The GeoThermal, you put in as many radiators you want. Set them up on the table for air conditioning, (after the cpu/gpu for sure lol) and hit 2 birds with one water loop. Hope my ramblings help, the geothermal is by far the best water loop I've ever made. Great for chilling TECs too  |
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Post by osmiumoc on Jun 17, 2020 3:49:30 GMT -5
Your ideas are neat, I thought about running a tap-to-drain loop before but that would be a pain to set up near a sink. I had my OC-bench in the kitchen before and it was really annoying to have the space blocked when making dinner or just wanting to sit down and eat.
And geothermal is not really a good option where I live. It is super expensive and will probably never reach ROI. They have to dig very deep and it costs more then 25k€. I might think about it if I ever move from a small apartment to a house but at the moment it's off the table.
And condensation is a pain, rel. humidity tends to hover around 80% during summer. Dew-point is at 20°C currently, even slightly cold tap water builds condensation quick. This is something I don't want to deal with on my current daily system.
The Ice-water bucket is a good option as I use a lot of submersible aquarium pumps from Eheim. I had thought about doing that during fall or winter months when ambient gets lower and humidity falls too. On a good day I have 18°C ambient at 30% humidity for a dew point close to 0°C.
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