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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 4, 2020 17:25:41 GMT -5
Jesus ya's are taking me back to my youth. They made a 750 triple too. They went great Chambers and they were real fast. I seen one about 10 yrs ago at a local Gas station and couldnt believe it the fella said if he had to get parts he got them from the U.S.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 4, 2020 17:36:14 GMT -5
Jesus ya's are taking me back to my youth. They made a 750 triple too. They went great Chambers and they were real fast. I seen one about 10 yrs ago at a local Gas station and couldnt believe it the fella said if he had to get parts he got them from the U.S. Amen. Since when where you ever young
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 4, 2020 17:54:58 GMT -5
I had Kaw H2 750 triple. Eyeball flattening acceleration.........handled like shit. Most fun bike I ever had. Turned it into my first drag bike. Pipes, carbs, bars, and air shifter. Took this to the streets every weekend. Good pocket money street racer.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 4, 2020 18:00:27 GMT -5
the fella said if he had to get parts he got them from the U.S. Yes. I can tell you where too. Fast by Gast, Grand Island NY. Paul Gast is a friend of mine.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Jun 4, 2020 18:06:08 GMT -5
When was I young back in the 70's Handled like shit you aint wrong there.
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Post by Bones on Jun 4, 2020 20:28:46 GMT -5
Here's how my truck sounds and so on. I mentioned a few things in the vid and understand it's a work in progress like all else.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 4, 2020 21:48:22 GMT -5
Here's how my truck sounds and so on. I mentioned a few things in the vid and understand it's a work in progress like all else. Runs pretty smooth. Same motor my 94 1500 WT has in it. Identical. Increased the exhaust to 3" some years back catless. Has a nice grumble to it actually.
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Post by sphincter on Jun 4, 2020 22:37:15 GMT -5
Being the time-tested design of the original small block chevy, that 4.3 is a great engine for reliability, longevity, and an abundance of parts available. Truck Looks solid, and clean! Those 6'ers have a nice chop @ idle.
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Post by zila1 on Jun 5, 2020 0:21:15 GMT -5
My neighbor had one(4.3)in a Chevy Astro Van. I used to do all the maintenance on it for him. He sold it many years ago with 250,000 miles on it. I know the new owner of it and it's still going strong to this day. Only problem it's ever had was some carbon in the egr valve which caused some stalling. Fixed it right up by just cleaning out the valve.
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Post by Bones on Jun 5, 2020 12:38:18 GMT -5
Was driving it this morning and it blew out either a heater core or one of the hoses to it. Had coolant in the cab and it was coming all out from under it, so much that it got the rear tire wet and at a light I had to stop at it spun the tire without me even trying to. Almost didn't make it but had just enough water and good fortune along the way I made it. Gonna loop a hose at the radiator for now and see exactly what happened with it. It's possible the hose blew out right at the end to the core making it spray into the cab but that's not very likely here.
With all the coolant I had underneath that's what's making me think it's possible but regardless I'll check it and most likely replace those hoses anyway. There is another reason for pulling the dash out too so while it's out I'll take care of the other problem it has too with the gage cluster.
Not looking foward to it at all.
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Post by zila1 on Jun 5, 2020 15:45:40 GMT -5
Blown heater core bones?
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Post by sphincter on Jun 5, 2020 23:45:37 GMT -5
Not looking foward to it at all.
oyy, I hear ya bones, thats diggin pretty deep into a vehicle. Another thing to consider if the heater core suddenly blew out... does that mean you have pressure building in your cooling system possibly? First thing to check is the radiator cap. It's cheap to replace so I recommend a new one if it has an old cap. Otherwise, ofc head gasket issues will cause pressure build up. I've gotta install A/C in our latest turnkey... even with all new parts it's a bit of a project. Kinda tight to fit even the smallest unit they sell into the backside of a 32 ford dash. Attachments:
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Post by Bones on Jun 6, 2020 4:11:25 GMT -5
No signs of swollen hoses which would be an indicator of that, The cap itself is brand new. I used to work on equipment in the field out of a service vehicle (Forklifts, bobcats and so on) running either gas, propane, electric or diesel and I've seen many a hose swollen before which indicates most of the time a blown head gasket. Normally a pressure tester will reveal it once it's running, even if the engine is still cold you'll see the pressure start climbing and no way you'd have an air hose to the radiator system. You'd sometimes even see what looks like steam with bubbles coming out the radiator when the engine is still cold.
No way it's steam with it still cold and I've see that before too - Just combustion/exhaust gas coming out the radiator. Speaking of the cap I replaced it probrably two months ago because the old one wasn't holding pressure and letting coolant seep past. Already ordered a new core and should be here tomorrow. ATM I have it bypassed and leaving the cap loose "Just in case" for now.
Since it's not my primary it can sit and only be used if I have to.
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Post by zila1 on Jun 6, 2020 12:33:44 GMT -5
She auto flushed herself.
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Post by Bones on Jun 6, 2020 17:17:38 GMT -5
She did. Too bad I can't reset it back to manual operation without alot of work. Good thing is the core wasn't that expensive, it's just a pain to do the job.
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Post by sphincter on Jun 6, 2020 17:28:12 GMT -5
Agree with everything you're saying. You got the know-how. Only thing, I'm not too keen on leaving the cap loose, because the boiling point of the coolant will get lowered, making it surge out. Reason I mentioned the radiator cap, We(My father and I) thought we were in for big headaches with a headgasket problem with the duramax just constantly puking coolant and getting stiff hoses. Changed the cap, All problems solved.
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Post by zila1 on Jun 6, 2020 20:25:30 GMT -5
She did. Too bad I can't reset it back to manual operation without alot of work. Good thing is the core wasn't that expensive, it's just a pain to do the job. On my '93 Buick I have to dismantle the lower dash. And getting those hoses off at the firewall is a pain in the ass. I have to remove the power steering pump to gain access. And then I would have to cut the hoses off cause they never want to come off of the heater core tubes. They will be glued in place from the heat. And then to top it off the heater hoses are molded ones so standard heater hose just won't do it. So then it's ordering time for the molded hoses. And if it leaked on the inside(which it always does)it's carpet cleaning time. Steam cleaning. Cause that smell of coolant don't just disappear on it's own. Oooooh, how that pisses me off. Feeling your pain here Rods.
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Post by Bones on Jun 7, 2020 5:59:09 GMT -5
Agree with everything you're saying. You got the know-how. Only thing, I'm not too keen on leaving the cap loose, because the boiling point of the coolant will get lowered, making it surge out. Reason I mentioned the radiator cap, We(My father and I) thought we were in for big headaches with a headgasket problem with the duramax just constantly puking coolant and getting stiff hoses. Changed the cap, All problems solved. Had to leave it loose to make it home so the loss of water was kept to a minimum and it worked, barely but enough that the engine is still OK.
That's why I have a couple of water jugs in the toolbox, it will tend to blow water out but the main thing right now is to keep other things from blowing out. That means I can still drive it until I get the core installed if I have to, the way I have it bypassed is kinda rigged and although it's working I'm not wanting to have a literal blowout of the hose and be in a bad situation at that point. I just check it before I head out and make sure the jugs are topped off too.
Was also watching the oil pressure gauge and it didn't drop much if at all and that was a good thing. If I had really seen it falling off I would have stopped to save the engine before it lost all oil pressure and did harm to it.
Good thing I've got the habit of keeping water jugs handy - if I didn't have those in the box I would not have made it home at all.
It's one of those "Things" I've learned to do over time and I always have at least one onhand for that very reason.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 7, 2020 22:52:46 GMT -5
Setting Valves on Detroit DD13. Make em' pure like kittens.
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Post by sphincter on Jun 10, 2020 22:26:53 GMT -5
Here's a guy that makes me look small.
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Post by sphincter on Jun 12, 2020 22:00:37 GMT -5
puttin in some nitty gritty work in the pics. Had to re-arch the fender to get the match to the door on the move gonna get more done this sunday. since the pics ive finished the welding, primed, and smoothed the welded parts. okay here's the specs on the drivetrain. 1967, 396 Block .060 over, 408 ci. - came from Dad's 67 Chevelle. His favorite of cars he had. well that or his first car the 57 chevy ragtop. all forged, balanced, 10.5:1 Comp. ratio 1970's 049 Open Chamber Oval Port Heads, 2.19,1.88 Valves with Undercut Stems 280 Magnum Comp Cam, Hydraulic, 2000-6000 advertised rpm band, (may shift higher with 396 crank) fat pushrods, chrome moly rockers, etc. was a full kit from Comp Cams. Edelbrock Air gap dual plane manifold. My tweaked, chokeless 800 CFM Edelbrock. I'm big on these Eddy carbs. 14 x 5 air cleaner with element lid. Using my 2 tweaked spacers ill show later, I boosted my idle vacuum in neutral from a bouncy 10-12, to a solid 15. In gear with the spacers i'm always above 10 inches of vacuum ensuring my vacuum canister doesn't fluctuate my timing at idle. Brakes are Hyrdoboost so they run off the steering pump rather than vacuum. Carter Electric 100 gph Fuel pump, 15 gallon plastic cell gas tank behind rear axle. in front of the fuel cell the battery is in a safety container just behind the rear axle. Accel Distributer, MSD 6A Box, Tayler 50 ohm plug wires. Timing is 20* initial, 36* total. I use vac. advance to get 10* extra with the vacuum over 7 inches. Sits at idle with 30* of timing. once i get on the road and get more brazen I may try more initial without the vacuum can. many people lock the distributor at total, but being a 10.5:1 motor with iron heads, I don't wanna try that just yet. Running R43 Plugs Griffin Aluminum Radiator, Derale 3750 CFM dual fan shroud setup. Exhuast is Coated headers Ive had hangin around forever, woulda been cool to make fenderwell headers, maybe later on. 3" dual shorty exhuast with Borla XR1 Mufflers. Simply put they're expensive glass packs. Bought them a long, long time ago these days Im into the sound of turbo mufflers for most street stuff. Turbo 400 Tranny, I had the converter on the shelf, I'de guess it's a 2000 or 2500 stall, and it seems to function just right. Im going to try 4.10's in the diff. first... 65,110,165 are the numerical speeds at 6000 RPM.(obviously it wont pull 165 mph) geared that way my second gear is actually more of a "drive" gear. It's acually about the same as the last gear in my duramax. gotta get a locker, no point in moving video footage with a 1 legger. I'll weigh it eventually. Im hoping its not fatter than 5500 #'s Tires are 38 x 15.5 Mickey Thompson Claw Radials. 16 x 10 old school tiny American Racing wheels. they dont make my tires anymore. For all this racket 400 hp to the tire would be a good # If I ever bother to upgrade, ide settle for nothing short of a 540, and would rather go 632, and boost prepped ofc The man who machined and built the motor passed away in early 2019. Just felt ill one day workin, died shortly later in the hospital, never heard what happened. he was only 59
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Post by Bones on Jun 14, 2020 22:42:47 GMT -5
Well, here she is after all these years stashed over at my brother's place. ATM all the tires have been removed and will get some rollers (Used tires) on the rims so we can move it around for whatever. The tires were in such bad shape I didn't trust the one that did air up and only one of them really held it for any period of time. I was afraid even if they did hold air, once you'd start moving it they could just go out and I'd have to do those anyway so may as well do them all and be done with it.
Alot of work to be done but I've got time - All I'll ever need in fact.
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Post by Vinster on Jun 14, 2020 22:50:34 GMT -5
she is a beaut Bones...
Vin
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 15, 2020 23:10:07 GMT -5
1967 Saab. The 1st truck that ever made a delivery for our ever growing company.
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Post by Bones on Jun 20, 2020 9:39:56 GMT -5
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Post by zila1 on Jun 20, 2020 10:51:45 GMT -5
Did I ever tell you about the time I helped a friend to build up a 1970 Monte Carlo 454? They must have spent about $75,000 on that car. The young guy didn't know how to setup the carb, timing or points. So I did it for him. It was running beautifully. I took it out for a two hour ride to make sure the tune up was right. I checked the trans cable adjustments. It was perfect. I brought it back to his house. The first words out of my mouth were...……."Do not kick it hard around turns. This is a straight line car with one hell of a lot of torque. It has a strong posi in it."
Well, the dumb ass kicked it hard around a turn hitting a curb with the rear axle assembly. He hit so hard that he ripped out the entire rear end putting the car down on it's frame/chassis. Totaled a classic restoration. 10 years worth of work down the drain in a matter of minutes. My heart was broken. Luckily nothing happened to him. Not a scratch on him. Dumb ass.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 20, 2020 13:06:11 GMT -5
Had to deal with this yesterday. I swear we hire from the top of the class. Yes that's a wheel off on the road. No one hurt, no property damage. Super Lucky.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 20, 2020 13:16:12 GMT -5
Hub replacement coming.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Jun 20, 2020 13:16:41 GMT -5
Hub replacement coming. Things beat to death.
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Post by Vinster on Jun 20, 2020 14:01:38 GMT -5
it's suppose to wobble like that... I didn't have any more ugga-dugga's to give.
Vin
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