|
|
Post by cowboy44mag on Nov 19, 2019 17:39:26 GMT -5
I'm new to this forum, have been talking with ShrimpBrime and he convinced me to join. I'm an old school overclocker, but am hoping to pick up new tricks and further my own overclocking abilities. Talking with ShrimpBrime he inspired me to do something that I have had in the back of my mind for awhile now. I have broke ground on installing my own geothermal custom loop. I've never done a custom loop before but my idea is:
I'm going to bury a 100 gallon steel drum about 14feet deep and encased in a foot of concrete. The drum will be filled with distilled water and have an outlet hose (coming from computer to drum) on the top and an inlet hose (from drum to computer) on the bottom. The hoses will be 1" heavy duty pex (the same I use for my well jet pump in the barn) and will go straight from the drum though my basement wall to a control box. The control box will have a pump for each hose and a quick connect for the water block hose. The water block will also have a pump so there should be no flow problems. The ground water in this area is about 11C year round at that depth and it is deep enough there's no chance of freezing in the winter. I'm thinking with this setup I'll only have the inlet and outlet hoses going to and from the water block in my tower so it should make for a very "clean" build.
Does this setup look like it will work or am I forgetting something? Thanks in advance, if all works out I'll be using the geothermal loop for a planned 3950X build for rendering / editing / benchmarking.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 19, 2019 18:01:42 GMT -5
Welcome to W9.  |
|
|
|
Post by Bones on Nov 19, 2019 19:41:42 GMT -5
Well howdy partner!  |
|
|
|
Post by WhiteWulfe on Nov 19, 2019 22:47:28 GMT -5
Welcome to Warp 9!
|
|
|
|
Post by ShrimpBrime on Nov 20, 2019 0:35:38 GMT -5
Welcome to warp9!!
If you do this project, filtration and algae killers.
|
|
|
|
Post by Aleslammer on Nov 20, 2019 5:24:39 GMT -5
Welcome!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by osmiumoc on Nov 20, 2019 5:29:44 GMT -5
Welcome! That sounds like a very cool project (no pun intended). Really interested in how it will work for you, if you plan to do it You might need to watch out for condensation when you bring that 11C inside the house. |
|
|
|
Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 20, 2019 5:57:58 GMT -5
Welcome aboard you will fit in here. |
|
|
|
Post by Bones on Nov 20, 2019 8:46:01 GMT -5
I'll add if you ever decide to build an evaporative cooler/tower I can help with that.  These can get coolant below ambient temps, usually around 5c or so based on the setup. One disadvantage is you'd need to keep an eye on the water level since it is evaporative in nature but as for cooling power it's pretty good. |
|
|
|
Post by infrared on Nov 20, 2019 15:27:01 GMT -5
Welcome, the cooling system sounds like a great idea!
|
|
|
|
Post by cowboy44mag on Nov 20, 2019 18:00:46 GMT -5
Welcome to warp9!! If you do this project, filtration and algae killers. I'm hoping to get it in this year, but may not be able to till the spring / summer. Winter is quickly approaching here and I have to get the farm ready for snow, the cold temps have already started. The biggest problems I am having right now is connecting with a 100 gallon stainless steel drum and with the cold damp temps I'm not sure the concrete will set properly. The last time I bought a stainless steel drum it cost $500 now the drums I'm finding are half the size and twice the cost. I also broke a hydraulic line on the tractor so I have to fix that to resume digging, plus the tractor can't be down with a broken line on a working farm... There is one thing that I wanted to ask though, with the drum buried underground I can see the advantage to filters but would I need an algae killer? From my experience with my wife's water features and ponds algae only becomes a problem with water that is exposed to sunlight. I may be wrong, but I think that without sunlight there is no algae. |
|
|
|
Post by cowboy44mag on Nov 20, 2019 18:05:48 GMT -5
Welcome! That sounds like a very cool project (no pun intended). Really interested in how it will work for you, if you plan to do it You might need to watch out for condensation when you bring that 11C inside the house. I haven't put much thought into condensation, but you are right. The jet pump in the barn will have a lot of condensation in the summer pumping the cold water. I'm not sure what I can do about it other than put water pipe insulators on the pipes coming though the wall. That will stop most of the condensation there, but if the water block and water block tubing begins to condensate I don't know what to do about that. What do people do who are running chillers on a custom loop? Thanks for the heads up on that one!! Hopefully I can address the issue in the planning stage and it will never become a problem. |
|
|
|
Post by cowboy44mag on Nov 20, 2019 18:12:40 GMT -5
I'll add if you ever decide to build an evaporative cooler/tower I can help with that. These can get coolant below ambient temps, usually around 5c or so based on the setup. One disadvantage is you'd need to keep an eye on the water level since it is evaporative in nature but as for cooling power it's pretty good. To be perfectly honest I have to look up what an evaporative cooler is. Unfortunately if it needs a lot of constant attention it probably wouldn't be ideal for my house. The kids are very use to if the family computer is in use and dad is in the barn then heck we'll play games on the rendering rig in the man cave. Some times its annoying, but largely I don't care if it stops them form fighting. Now if they need to check water levels first... well they aren't going to do that so it is inevitable that I'm going to end up with a very expensive paper weight.
Thank you for the kind offer though.
|
|
|
|
Post by cowboy44mag on Nov 20, 2019 18:14:52 GMT -5
Just a shout out to everyone, thank you for the kind welcome to the forum!!
|
|
|
|
Post by ShrimpBrime on Nov 20, 2019 18:35:47 GMT -5
Welcome to warp9!! If you do this project, filtration and algae killers. I'm hoping to get it in this year, but may not be able to till the spring / summer. Winter is quickly approaching here and I have to get the farm ready for snow, the cold temps have already started. The biggest problems I am having right now is connecting with a 100 gallon stainless steel drum and with the cold damp temps I'm not sure the concrete will set properly. The last time I bought a stainless steel drum it cost $500 now the drums I'm finding are half the size and twice the cost. I also broke a hydraulic line on the tractor so I have to fix that to resume digging, plus the tractor can't be down with a broken line on a working farm... There is one thing that I wanted to ask though, with the drum buried underground I can see the advantage to filters but would I need an algae killer? From my experience with my wife's water features and ponds algae only becomes a problem with water that is exposed to sunlight. I may be wrong, but I think that without sunlight there is no algae. Any light will grow something. Doesn't have to come from the sun. Some algae grows in the dark. If used something like windshield washer fluid, you wouldn't have to worry. Nice color, see leaks better and won't freeze so insulating pipes wouldn't be as necessary. |
|
|
|
Post by Vinster on Nov 20, 2019 22:16:32 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. Neat idea with the drum.
Vin
|
|
|
|
Post by Bones on Nov 21, 2019 6:10:56 GMT -5
I'll add if you ever decide to build an evaporative cooler/tower I can help with that. These can get coolant below ambient temps, usually around 5c or so based on the setup. One disadvantage is you'd need to keep an eye on the water level since it is evaporative in nature but as for cooling power it's pretty good. To be perfectly honest I have to look up what an evaporative cooler is. Unfortunately if it needs a lot of constant attention it probably wouldn't be ideal for my house. The kids are very use to if the family computer is in use and dad is in the barn then heck we'll play games on the rendering rig in the man cave. Some times its annoying, but largely I don't care if it stops them form fighting. Now if they need to check water levels first... well they aren't going to do that so it is inevitable that I'm going to end up with a very expensive paper weight.
Thank you for the kind offer though.
No problem, that's why we're here. I had thought about running a small water line with a toilet float-style valve for maintaining the water level automatically but where the tower is does prohibit that from being done without alot of work so I just refill as needed in my case. In your case I can understand why you want to do it another way - Nothing wrong with that at all. As for an evaporative cooling setup and understanding what it is, here's where you can read up on this: www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/406256-official-bong-lovers-club-56k-fail.htmlAnd: www.overclock.net/forum/134-cooling-experiments/1503843-my-bong-cooler-build-log-evaporative-cooling.htmlIn any regard, if you ever decide to I can and will help. |
|
|
|
Post by cowboy44mag on Nov 21, 2019 16:38:21 GMT -5
I'm hoping to get it in this year, but may not be able to till the spring / summer. Winter is quickly approaching here and I have to get the farm ready for snow, the cold temps have already started. The biggest problems I am having right now is connecting with a 100 gallon stainless steel drum and with the cold damp temps I'm not sure the concrete will set properly. The last time I bought a stainless steel drum it cost $500 now the drums I'm finding are half the size and twice the cost. I also broke a hydraulic line on the tractor so I have to fix that to resume digging, plus the tractor can't be down with a broken line on a working farm... There is one thing that I wanted to ask though, with the drum buried underground I can see the advantage to filters but would I need an algae killer? From my experience with my wife's water features and ponds algae only becomes a problem with water that is exposed to sunlight. I may be wrong, but I think that without sunlight there is no algae. Any light will grow something. Doesn't have to come from the sun. Some algae grows in the dark. If used something like windshield washer fluid, you wouldn't have to worry. Nice color, see leaks better and won't freeze so insulating pipes wouldn't be as necessary. Windshield fluid is a good idea, the antifreeze may even help with condensation... Thanks for the heads up |
|
|
|
Post by ShrimpBrime on Nov 21, 2019 17:03:12 GMT -5
It's the alcohol in the Windshield fluid that prevents freezing.
You could use engine coolant also for sure.
|
|
|
|
Post by Vinster on Nov 21, 2019 21:46:48 GMT -5
I've used pure -45 Degree C washer fluid in an AC Chiller loop, stuff worked great. but you need to add a little anti-corrosion to it. i found some oxidization my my chiller rad (Aluminum). I have not used the chiller in a few years, so I don't know the proper ratio to suggest.
Vin
|
|
|
|
Post by Mr.Scott on Nov 22, 2019 16:20:18 GMT -5
I've used pure -45 Degree C washer fluid in an AC Chiller loop, stuff worked great. but you need to add a little anti-corrosion to it. i found some oxidization my my chiller rad (Aluminum). I have not used the chiller in a few years, so I don't know the proper ratio to suggest. Vin 10% |
|
|
|
Post by Vinster on Nov 23, 2019 22:00:36 GMT -5
I've used pure -45 Degree C washer fluid in an AC Chiller loop, stuff worked great. but you need to add a little anti-corrosion to it. i found some oxidization my my chiller rad (Aluminum). I have not used the chiller in a few years, so I don't know the proper ratio to suggest. Vin 10% That's where I was going to start... I have a jug of yellow Prestone just for this kind of stuff...
Vin
|
|
|
|
Post by cowboy44mag on Nov 29, 2019 14:31:41 GMT -5
I've used pure -45 Degree C washer fluid in an AC Chiller loop, stuff worked great. but you need to add a little anti-corrosion to it. i found some oxidization my my chiller rad (Aluminum). I have not used the chiller in a few years, so I don't know the proper ratio to suggest. Vin 10% Been really busy the last week, but getting the "blueprint" set up. Doubt I'll actually be able to get in installed now till spring or summer (if the spring is too wet and muddy). I had an older Chevy that had an aluminum rad, you had to use special orange colored antifreeze in it as the normal antifreeze would damage the rad... Dexcool, that's it had a little left in my garage. I wonder if that would be good to run saying it was formulated for use with an aluminum rad. |
|
|
|
Post by cowboy44mag on Nov 29, 2019 14:41:18 GMT -5
A shout out to all of you Ryzen experts out there: I just noticed that a new bios is available for my Strix X470-F motherboard. The new bios (version 5406) has AGESA 1.0.0.4 patch B. I have been running bios (version 5220) AGESA 1.0.0.3ABBA and have had very good results with it. I run 4.4Ghz 24/7 @ 1.3V and will run the entire CCX0 at 4.4Ghz and the entire CCX1 at 4.5Ghz @ 1.38V if I need a project done quickly. My max overclock (Prime95 stable) on my rig is the entire CCX0 at 4.475Ghz and the entire CCX1 @ 4.5Ghz (so 4 cores 8 threads at 4.475Ghz and 4 cores 8 threads at 4.5Ghz) @ 1.406V.
Anyone have any experience with AGESA 1.0.0.4B vs 1.0.0.3ABBA? I know I have read some bad posts about 1.0.0.4 actually causing memory instability and requiring higher voltage. I am interested in manual overclocking results between the two AGESA versions. If I can get lower voltages and higher clocks with the new bios I'll upgrade, but if not I don't really want to waste my time.
|
|
|
|
Post by Bones on Nov 29, 2019 15:00:06 GMT -5
Unless you're having issues already or have a need to update due to incompatability with a new(er) CPU I'd not mess with it.... At least for now.
Just because a BIOS file is newer doesn't always mean it's better, I've ran into that before.
|
|
|
|
Post by osmiumoc on Nov 29, 2019 15:31:46 GMT -5
If you are happy with your current results and you have no issues -> don´t update. It all depends on many factors and just because the new revision claims to have general better memory support does not mean it supports your specific kit any better.
I´m with bones on this one and I had the experience on my Threadripper. It ran fine at rated speeds with hynix chips but would not go any higher, I updated the bios because the new agesa was said to be better and my board no longer posted. It was completly bricked, because the new agesa was horrible with my specific hynix RAM and could no longer post at default settings.
In the end I had to use the bios-flashback and flash the bios from a USB-stick without the system booting, thank you Asus for having that feature. It saved my life on that day. On the older bios it worked fine again.
tldr: What I said in the first line.
|
|
|
|
Post by Vinster on Nov 29, 2019 15:56:50 GMT -5
x3 on updating the bios. unless there is something specifically noted that you are having an issue with, that you want fixed. don't update.
Vin
|
|
|
|
Post by cowboy44mag on Nov 29, 2019 19:09:26 GMT -5
Unless you're having issues already or have a need to update due to incompatability with a new(er) CPU I'd not mess with it.... At least for now. Just because a BIOS file is newer doesn't always mean it's better, I've ran into that before. Thanks to everyone who responded about the bios. It seems everyone is in agreement, and that is why I was asking to begin with, I was very wary of "upgrading". I had reasonably good success with most of the bios updates for my 2700X, but the last couple that came out I didn't bother as the one nearly crippled my computer, felt lucky to get it flashed back to a previous bios that was rock solid. I'll stick with 1.0.0.3ABBA, I have had good results with it and I think one of the best quotes though history is "if it isn't broke don't fix it". I am already getting some of the best overclocks I have seen for being on air, so I can't complain. |
|
|
|
Post by Macsbeach98 on Nov 29, 2019 20:39:23 GMT -5
With Ryzen the bios seems to be related to the CPU used with my Crosshair VI earlier bioses work better with 1800X later bioses for 2700X the latest bioses would all be for the 3xxx chips.
I could buy a 3900X early next year which will mean I will be flashing a new bios for it.
|
|
