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Post by Vinster on Feb 26, 2018 22:08:04 GMT -5
my PS3 kicked the bucket again. this time it might be for good. I was about 70% done GT5 A-Spec (Driver Level 29)... hundreds of hours in that game... it was the reason for saving the PS3. I'll try to get her going to pull the data out. I'll backup the game data if I can, but reading seems like I can't put that save data on another PS3 and just continue I am bummed out... Vin
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Post by Vinster on Feb 27, 2018 0:22:31 GMT -5
I just spent a few hours pouring over info on emulating GT5, but it seems the most common emulators can't emaulate this game I'm jonesin' for some racin' Very sad about the loss of progress Vin
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Post by Vinster on Feb 27, 2018 9:23:31 GMT -5
I've decided that I'm going to water cool my PS3. I have a spare H100 and an H70. To me these are useless in a PC. So I hope I don't botch this up and destroy my PS3... I love my FAT unit. I don't want to let it go...
Also thinking of relocating the PSU outside of the console... This week and weekend I'm going to build my Electronics Repair Bench and then I'll have at this. I'll start a new thread when I get there.
Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Feb 27, 2018 18:11:52 GMT -5
Sounds like a fun project.
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Post by Bones on Feb 27, 2018 19:13:39 GMT -5
Be careful with the board and you'll get it done - Good Luck!
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Post by Vinster on Feb 28, 2018 11:57:13 GMT -5
Been trying to figure out which die naturally runs hotter and it seems like a crap shute as to which it is... Some people have the CPU run hotter, some the RSX ship. I'd want to put the H100 on the hotter chip obviously. but which one?
right now I'm thinking the bigger RAD will go on the CPU... thoughts?
Vin
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Feb 28, 2018 15:50:43 GMT -5
Which chip karks it the most or no one knows because ya's just throw them in the oven.
Its generally a gaming machine so probably the Graphics chip would be the hotter of the two.
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Post by Bones on Feb 28, 2018 22:52:31 GMT -5
I have to agree, the GPU probrably gets hotter like they do in a PC.
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Post by Vinster on Mar 9, 2018 8:07:56 GMT -5
I revived my PS3 with a reflow last night. I cannot find anyone to re-ball or replace the RSX chip, I'm starting to save for a Cheap-Chineese BGA-Rework Station. I tin taped the bottom (to hold the components) and then tin taped around the CELL and RSX chips. I also put a thermocouple between the chips on the bottom side of the board. Got the board to 220 Deg C, held it there for 1 minute... got a touch scared at about 175 when I saw smoke, turned out it was the glue on the tape. once I saw it I went in to "F-it" mode and decided to finished what I had intended to do. glad I did. I had to use my backup temp probe.. my Fluke 52 wont turn on atm that'll be the next thing that get open and fix. Once everything is backed up I'll be starting on the PS3 watercooling project. I started to dig out the gear for it. I have an overall plan and it's going to be simple. as for Temps, seems the CPU runs hotter... www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Talk:ThermalMine is a CECHA01... Vin
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Post by Vinster on Mar 11, 2018 13:34:15 GMT -5
Found an app to move game saved from 1 PS3 (profile account or entire PS3) to another PS3. If you don't know, game saved are encrypted to the User and PS3 it was created on. So unless you are doing a full on PS3 to PS3 transfer (which formats the destination PS3) you cannot copy a game save and play it on another PS3. Here is a good video on the process and he has links in the description for downloads. just tried it and it worked. my GT5 save now works on a new user. I'm a happy camper. I'm going to start modding my PS3 today. Vin
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Post by Bones on Apr 15, 2018 20:15:05 GMT -5
Gotta figure out how to remarry a BD drive, have an "A" model unit here but came with no BD drive and had a few other things wrong too, bought it as for parts or repair and it certainly wasn't functional when I first got it. Yes it has the PS2 chip on the board so it's a first release model. Fixed these other problems and now it works but the lack of a BD drive still makes it useless. If I can figure that out I believe I'll have a decent unit to mess around with.
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Post by Vinster on Apr 16, 2018 11:24:59 GMT -5
there's a whole bullshit level with that. I've read that you can't swap BD between PS3's and it has to do with the region setting.
I hope you figure out a way.
Vin
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Post by Bones on Apr 16, 2018 12:07:24 GMT -5
Yeah, I've been reading around about it and it's am entirely different ball of wax vs what we do. It can be done but the particulars are the biggest thing about doing it. Region setting does make a difference but the machine itself also has a unique ID and the BD player has one too, if they don't match up the system will reject the replacement drive.
It's all in the firmware of the system, probrably one reason Sony did away with Linux support for these machines.
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Post by Bones on Jan 24, 2019 9:29:03 GMT -5
Had an idea about what to do with the one I have that wants to overheat all the time. Since the PS3 is known to have temp issues as it is, I've decided to at least look into placing the guts of it in a PC case with a different cooling setup. Doesn't mean it's gonna actually happen since it's a project I'd need to look over and see how it could be done but it's certainly possible to do. Lots of work and modding will be needed for it to work but I've decided to see how feasable it would be and maybe save this unit and get some use from an old case I'll never use for anything PC related anyway.
If it looks like I can do it, will update what's going on but if not I'll just say so.
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Post by Bones on Jan 24, 2019 18:49:08 GMT -5
Took one I'm working on and baked it.
Set the oven for 380F and preheated it, then slipped the board in and let it sit for about 5 minutes at temp once it hit the correct temp after heating back up from me opening the oven to set the board in. The solder on the board indeed flowed indicated by the shiny look of the solder joints I could see and nothing fell off which was a worry I had. It's currently cooling down and once done I can test it and see if it works.
I know it's probrably a temporary fix but it was a unit that wasn't working at all, if it does work I'll call it a win and it may the one I use for my PS3 in a PC case project if I do it.
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Post by Bones on Jan 26, 2019 20:20:42 GMT -5
It didn't work and I believe that one is truly dead - No change at all.
However with the ones I have that do, I believe I have an idea of how to help them out. Need to find a few heatsinks of a smaller size to work with so I can try my idea, something along the lines of an actual server block is what I'm thinking and I've seen those on fleabay cheap.
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Post by Vinster on Feb 5, 2019 13:21:04 GMT -5
make sure you use flux on the larger chips, otherwise the solder will be brittle and it'll make it worst.
Vin
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Post by Bones on Feb 5, 2019 13:30:52 GMT -5
If reballing that's is certainly true but not what I was trying to do at that time. I'm currently working on plans for making a reball setup for such things, should be fun and educational at the same time..... Fun for you guys to watch the vid as I get educated the hard and painful way.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Feb 5, 2019 21:49:25 GMT -5
I will be subbed for that Rodney.
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Post by Bones on Feb 5, 2019 23:10:44 GMT -5
Vid at 10.
Will be awhile planning this and just figuring things out, I'm in no hurry to get it done. I do know one thing already, I'll probrably be using an old electric skillet with a temp control for the bottom part of it. As for the top that will be harder to figure out, I know an infrared/heat lamp is needed but how to keep the light pattern tight while not letting heat creep up the assembly is another matter.
As for the adjustable jig part of it, that's easy.
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Post by Bones on Feb 6, 2019 9:14:19 GMT -5
Hmmmm.... Was looking at things this morning and remembered I've seen a few that used a desoldering wand for heat like my soldering station has. Looked at some tubing and found a copper tube that's close to being what I need, it's about the right diameter for these chips and long enough the wand can just sit in the tube with the very end of it about 2 inches from the chip if I were to set it flat on the chip. Figure in the fact it can't do that because air has to flow out and it's very close to being what I need. The plus is I'd have temp and airflow control too, the minus is all the tiny little components on the GPU are at risk of getting blown off once hot even though the airflow would be light. I'd also have to come up with a way to quickly remove/lift the chip from the board before the solder cools down, rebonding the chip to the board. All that to be done without getting burned by the chip while it's hot and one more thing is the amount of heat and airflow while the wand is in the tube - I'd have to see if it can even get hot enough in the first place but it should I'd think.
Not to mention possible issues with the wand just sitting in the tube. Since the tube I have ATM is copper, would the tube get hot enough to start melting the wand itself while it's sitting in the tube? I do have some steel tube pieces I could use too but even those would get hot eventually, just not as quickly. Instead, going with a heat bulb would probrably be better but then I'd have to worry about how tight the light pattern is to keep the heat where I want it. As I've also mentioned there is a matter of heat wanting to creep up the bulb/socket assembly possibly causing issues there since it would have to be directly above the work and heat rises. If I have to restrict the light pattern then what's used to block that part of the light emitted would itself get hot, probrably HOT because it would be right at the bulb itself. Well, maybe not "AT" the bulb since a covering template with the right sized hole can be made to do both, block the light and allow it to come through in the size/pattern I'd need. That would solve some of these problems but would also create one or two itself but in this case, probrably would be the most viable. Maybe at this point I'm overthinking it but at least I'm thinking instead of just slapping something together and saying "Screw it - Let's do it".
2 possible methods to use and alot of problems to solve - I'm up for the challenge of it all.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Feb 6, 2019 17:19:43 GMT -5
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Post by Vinster on Feb 6, 2019 17:22:42 GMT -5
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Post by Bones on Feb 6, 2019 17:36:31 GMT -5
IR it is then. The skillet was something I saw elsewhere but do know it isn't really needed.
@ Mac: As for guiding the light, I guess using what you suggested is probrably best, You've been doing this for awhile that I know of anyway and know you are speaking from experience. Only problem I'd have is just getting some of the Kapton and silver tape but not impossible to do. Again I'm in no hurry to do this, it's a project I'm just wanting to do and do so at my own pace once I start.
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Post by Bones on Apr 16, 2019 3:37:04 GMT -5
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 16, 2019 9:10:11 GMT -5
WTG you are well on your way now Rodney. Sweating the chips off reballing them and putting them back on is fairly easy. The hard part is cleaning up the pads on the board all those pencil line traces you see going under a socket or chip end as pads using a blunt tip on a normal iron with solder wick to clean them up if the solder wick extends past the end of your iron tip and loses a bit of heat as you move it along and one of the pads the solder doesnt melt completely and sticks it will bring the pad off and part of the trace with it. Search fleabay for T12-1402 or 1403 they are the tips to get the actual soldering station is a Hakko 950 you can buy chinese knockoff soldering stations very cheaply. That is a must cut your pieces of solder wick shorter than the tip width and use plenty of flux on the board.
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Post by Vinster on Apr 16, 2019 14:15:42 GMT -5
use plenty of flux on the board. x2, At the cost of a failed/damaged board, Flux is cheap.
Vin
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Post by Bones on Apr 16, 2019 17:21:57 GMT -5
Believe me I learned about flux long ago. I did see a video once that the guy doing the vid was using liquid flux and it seemed to work well with what he was doing. All I have right now is paste (Rubyfluid) but should be OK.
He was using a tool to do the cleanup that looked like a "T" on the end of his wand/pen and it worked to remove the old solder - In fact looked almost like he simply squeegied the old stuff away but had a pad under it too.
Will be researching things before I try it and have plenty of dead stuff to learn with.
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Post by Bones on Apr 22, 2019 16:09:23 GMT -5
It arrived today and basic testing shows it in working order. Will have to checkout the CD/DVD that came with it for useage instructions later, then do a test desoldering of a chip with it. Plenty of dead PS3 boards here for that. The card is simply for size reference, the unit was "On" but nothing was applying heat when the pic was taken.
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Post by Bones on May 2, 2019 16:30:37 GMT -5
Scored what appears to be a perfectly working unit for $30 shipped! Listing said it had "No Power" meaning a bad PSU but so far it's working great. I did note when it got here before testing the unit's powerswitch on the back was on so.... They could have been tripping the OV protect of the PSU by just plugging the cord in instead of having the switch turned off before plugging it in.
Naturally I did switch it off before plugging up to test. Aside for a single mark on the top of it the machine is CLEAN and almost looks brandnew too, still has the factory anti-tamper label on it's cover so at least no one has been messing with it internally. It's for the wife and will have her mess with it later and see if it overheats or not.
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