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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Aug 12, 2023 0:13:26 GMT -5
Oh I've fried a socket A chip. Was my first system actually. Some Gateway rig. Pulled the heat sink off, and something compelled me to turn on the PC. Smoke, glowing hot core in a matter of 3 seconds. HAHA. Then I bought my first OC gaming rig and started overclocking. But with a heat sink installed!!! But always try to take advice and put it to use. Back story on our random tech boy here.... He has the passion. Loves trying big voltage and crossflashing. reaches some respectable clock frequencies sometimes actually. But generally not in a useable sense, I think he just goes for the frequency brag rights. Which is cool in my book. But there's another thread similar many pages long. He does it his way and has very little to work with. Has been offered hardware and advice, refuses both 99.9% of the time. Thus you see my back handed replies. He'll get there someday. Young, this lad is 15 years old. I like pictures and screen shots though. I try to get that at least from him haha! Managed to get 2700 on the asrock but now its dead problably something to do with filth getting into the socket after i inserted a fx 4100 that i mostly fixed its bent pins, tried to pick it up after running w/o heatsink and it fell onto the board and bent some pins, maybe theres a better way to straighten pins than just manhandling the thing with my fingernails Fixed with a dunk in water and poured water directly onto the socket but now its dead problably cause the socket cover is too borked and i have to get another, literally have to push the cpu and the socket over down while lowering the lever to get it to mount properly and even attempt to post Need a new socket cover cause i ruined all 3 of the am3 socket covers i had and the only remaining one from an ecs a780 has a completely diff design for attatching to the socket so its unusable still gathering money so im not really gonna post much unless i run into something interesting on the way, next thing will problably be screwing around with oc on fm2 as i see lots of malfucntioning but posting fm2 boards at pretty cheap prices where i just need to dunk in water to fix, curious as to how fm2 can clock rams since alot of the boards i see are those smaller than matx but not quite itx 1dpc boards, and itd be quite funny to have a high clocking chip and ram on a dinky budget board In a few months time assuming i manage to get this build sold and finally have some money to burn ill problably start looking into building a phase change cooler but i wouldnt expect that to happen till the end of 2023 so wont have anything legitemately interesting for quite awhile
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 12, 2023 0:32:11 GMT -5
Oh I've fried a socket A chip. Was my first system actually. Some Gateway rig. Pulled the heat sink off, and something compelled me to turn on the PC. Smoke, glowing hot core in a matter of 3 seconds. HAHA. Then I bought my first OC gaming rig and started overclocking. But with a heat sink installed!!! But always try to take advice and put it to use. Back story on our random tech boy here.... He has the passion. Loves trying big voltage and crossflashing. reaches some respectable clock frequencies sometimes actually. But generally not in a useable sense, I think he just goes for the frequency brag rights. Which is cool in my book. But there's another thread similar many pages long. He does it his way and has very little to work with. Has been offered hardware and advice, refuses both 99.9% of the time. Thus you see my back handed replies. He'll get there someday. Young, this lad is 15 years old. I like pictures and screen shots though. I try to get that at least from him haha! Managed to get 2700 on the asrock but now its dead problably something to do with filth getting into the socket after i inserted a fx 4100 that i mostly fixed its bent pins, tried to pick it up after running w/o heatsink and it fell onto the board and bent some pins, maybe theres a better way to straighten pins than just manhandling the thing with my fingernails Fixed with a dunk in water and poured water directly onto the socket but now its dead problably cause the socket cover is too borked and i have to get another, literally have to push the cpu and the socket over down while lowering the lever to get it to mount properly and even attempt to post Need a new socket cover cause i ruined all 3 of the am3 socket covers i had and the only remaining one from an ecs a780 has a completely diff design for attatching to the socket so its unusable still gathering money so im not really gonna post much unless i run into something interesting on the way, next thing will problably be screwing around with oc on fm2 as i see lots of malfucntioning but posting fm2 boards at pretty cheap prices where i just need to dunk in water to fix, curious as to how fm2 can clock rams since alot of the boards i see are those smaller than matx but not quite itx 1dpc boards, and itd be quite funny to have a high clocking chip and ram on a dinky budget board In a few months time assuming i manage to get this build sold and finally have some money to burn ill problably start looking into building a phase change cooler but i wouldnt expect that to happen till the end of 2023 so wont have anything legitemately interesting for quite awhile You can do quite a bit on small budget boards. In fact I only used LN2 on budget boards. Still do in fact. M5A78 L MX plus. My fastest FX chip on this board hit 7685mhz and the board was 50$ brand new. Ran a few Phenom chips like 980BE with good success also. So again, and finally, the only restriction on AM3/+ platform is your choice of cooling. I can't see you able to afford a single stage cooler when we've yet to see a simple yet complete working water loop. Which made right could slap a bag of ice in the water and get at least 5.5ghz from your FX chips.
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Post by Bones on Aug 12, 2023 9:18:48 GMT -5
Maybe not 5.5 but 5.3 is doable, depending on tweaks used.
I've never seen 5.5 on chilled but did get 5.4 on one (4300) and I was being very light with voltage when I got it.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 12, 2023 10:14:37 GMT -5
Maybe not 5.5 but 5.3 is doable, depending on tweaks used. I've never seen 5.5 on chilled but did get 5.4 on one (4300) and I was being very light with voltage when I got it. Ran a 9590 all cores 5.4ghz on tap to drain and that's not as cold as most guys chillers. And not saying I got a CPU-Z, that's Cinebench R15 I'm talking about. Cpu-Z was 5.7ghz. FX-8350 from my records show 6.1ghz on H20, but the bench was PiMod 1m, this running 1.7v-core. Though maybe the FX-8350 submission may be a lie for the cooling used. The 4300 I sent you .... Well I never but maybe 1 time posted that chip on ambient temps. Out of the box, straight under LN2 pot. _____ Now don't get me wrong here, obviously I was trying to do cost effective clocking (as always) so using 400$ motherboards wasn't my cup of tea. ------- The really sad part is, he could do a Ryzen 1400 cpu on a cheap board and it would completely clobber all LN2 AM3 FX benchmarks. All of em.
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Post by eidairman1 on Aug 12, 2023 19:05:16 GMT -5
Thats expected Brime. 5.0 air cooled on the thin cooler is all that can be mustered for mine. If I got 5.1-5.2 Air only Id be fine.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Aug 13, 2023 4:52:45 GMT -5
Managed to get 2700 on the asrock but now its dead problably something to do with filth getting into the socket after i inserted a fx 4100 that i mostly fixed its bent pins, tried to pick it up after running w/o heatsink and it fell onto the board and bent some pins, maybe theres a better way to straighten pins than just manhandling the thing with my fingernails Fixed with a dunk in water and poured water directly onto the socket but now its dead problably cause the socket cover is too borked and i have to get another, literally have to push the cpu and the socket over down while lowering the lever to get it to mount properly and even attempt to post Need a new socket cover cause i ruined all 3 of the am3 socket covers i had and the only remaining one from an ecs a780 has a completely diff design for attatching to the socket so its unusable still gathering money so im not really gonna post much unless i run into something interesting on the way, next thing will problably be screwing around with oc on fm2 as i see lots of malfucntioning but posting fm2 boards at pretty cheap prices where i just need to dunk in water to fix, curious as to how fm2 can clock rams since alot of the boards i see are those smaller than matx but not quite itx 1dpc boards, and itd be quite funny to have a high clocking chip and ram on a dinky budget board In a few months time assuming i manage to get this build sold and finally have some money to burn ill problably start looking into building a phase change cooler but i wouldnt expect that to happen till the end of 2023 so wont have anything legitemately interesting for quite awhile You can do quite a bit on small budget boards. In fact I only used LN2 on budget boards. Still do in fact. M5A78 L MX plus. My fastest FX chip on this board hit 7685mhz and the board was 50$ brand new. Ran a few Phenom chips like 980BE with good success also. So again, and finally, the only restriction on AM3/+ platform is your choice of cooling. I can't see you able to afford a single stage cooler when we've yet to see a simple yet complete working water loop. Which made right could slap a bag of ice in the water and get at least 5.5ghz from your FX chips. I do have a working waterloop but need to buy a block for it and i am simply too lazy to get it running, literally used bottlecaps with holes in them to adapt different tube sizes, and tubes are plastic welded with melted plastic so took a little while to assemble, if i decide to take it seriously id problably exchange the bottlecaps for cones so the water isnt just hitting a wall when tube size is being adapted itll be a little while before i have 20$ to burn and not be compelled to just immedeately spend it on broken boards to fix and make more and repeat and repeat till my money runs out because im stupid and bought the wrong boards that cant be fixed with a dip in water And my fx chips are kinda shit, the 4100 i wanna sell with the 970 extreme3 is a pos that wont post when set >5ghz and its not good with v/f either so ill sell this thing at an oc of 4.5/4.6g, and my fx 4130 can boot 5g at 1.55v but not stable and even with extra cooling im not sure if i can hit those higher clocks, maybe i should buy a 6300 for 13$ if i really wanted to mess around with oc but i have no reason till i can rasie the sell value of my boards with the cpu like what i wanna do with the now heavily depreciated p67 z68 and z77 boards, wont sell for any decent money till i slap an 8$ 2500k on em Actually speaking of which i got a deal for a p67a-s + e3 1220 for 18$ with some issues that should be fixable with a spray of 99% ipa or a dunk in water, so ill be buying a 2500k soon. Im curious as to how well sandy imc can clock rams, particularly dual rank and quad rank since all the 4gbit ics have abysmal trfc and 2gbit samsung d die is readily available, pretty sure ill be boardlimited on alot of these 67/68 boards so id rather a dual/quad rank setup since high freq (2600+) cant be reached Which makes single rank effectively useless not to mention 16gb always being dual rank anyways. Im also kinda curious as to how high i can clock a 2500k since i know these things can do 5g pretty easily, maybe not as high clocking as an fx but when my only decent fx 4130 isnt even stable at 5g 1.55v might aswell see if a 2500k can do abit better On a sidenote i retested the 970 extreme3 and it is alive but if i want it to post i literally have to hold down the cpu with my hand to get it to start rolling codes and not 00 which is pretty funny, so now i just gotta find a scrap am3(+) board. ill see if flashing a 970a-g bios will get it to clock the rams any higher but i doubt it, besides psc dont scale that much with volt anyways so the extra vdimm range wont be that useful either
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 13, 2023 13:13:10 GMT -5
Yes, single channel is always effectively useless. If only for a frequency brag, one stick is dandy for that.
You sacrifice clocks for dual/tri channel bandwidth. From there you compensate by running tighter timings. It's pretty much basic practice.
No, you'd want Intel 4690/4790 for clocking ddr3. We've gone over this before. Why repeat the question??
No, not always a dunk in water saves a board. Probably almost never. Cleaning a working board may be a good method to "dunk" boards.
Don't worry young man. As you age and then go into the working force, you'll make money to purchase better working hardware. I had my first legit job at 15 years old and have worked ever since. And that's according to gov record.
HW lesson today is J O B. Cause that's how I get all my hardware......
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 13, 2023 17:28:52 GMT -5
I just laugh these days and move on. Dunk all your boards in water fixes all faults and they clock 20% higher. What a lot of Hot Cock.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Aug 13, 2023 19:08:46 GMT -5
Yes, single channel is always effectively useless. If only for a frequency brag, one stick is dandy for that. You sacrifice clocks for dual/tri channel bandwidth. From there you compensate by running tighter timings. It's pretty much basic practice. No, you'd want Intel 4690/4790 for clocking ddr3. We've gone over this before. Why repeat the question?? No, not always a dunk in water saves a board. Probably almost never. Cleaning a working board may be a good method to "dunk" boards. Don't worry young man. As you age and then go into the working force, you'll make money to purchase better working hardware. I had my first legit job at 15 years old and have worked ever since. And that's according to gov record. HW lesson today is J O B. Cause that's how I get all my hardware...... ill buy a g3258 pretty soon aswell but ill just work with what i have And i cherry pick the boards i buy so sucess rate is not half bad but i keep impulse misbuying and getting a pos that wont be saved with a dunk in water, usually i find boards that are long unused cause those are the ones that tend to be revivable, anything else is a gamble and some just have downright odd issues usually related to cmos being completely nuked Ive saved >10 boards by now so its not bullshit, and i just dunked a p7p55d that i just impulse bought so lets see if that works which is problably wont though it did get pretty close to working after a simple 99% IPA spraydown just got stuck on 03 right before post (2A) next time i got a broken board ill hopefully not forget to take a pic of it just submerged in a bucket of water
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 14, 2023 11:13:39 GMT -5
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Aug 14, 2023 17:52:47 GMT -5
Turns out it needs a card as it wont post headless with no card Though that ipa spraydown didnt fix cmos since inserting cmos would just immedeatly cause it to 00, dunked it in water and now it doesnt do that anymore and board is working just fine, also saves a decent amount of time cleaning out the dust since i just let the water clean all the dust as it was a pretty dusty board ill send a pic once i get home of the thing just working And with that logic if your board just up and 00 after not being used for awhile and nothing you do fixes it you wont even bother deep cleaning it and just throw it away? Thats pretty stupid if you ask me
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 14, 2023 21:11:21 GMT -5
I don't purchase non working boards in hopes to clean them and then they start working.
So, the logic is good, buy boards that are working instead.
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Post by austin86 on Aug 15, 2023 8:19:32 GMT -5
I don't purchase non working boards in hopes to clean them and then they start working. So, the logic is good, buy boards that are working instead. Does cleaning ever fix a board? 😂 OK OK maybe if it had a old barrel battery leak acid all over the board. But then we are talking about what? 386 and older hardware ?
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 15, 2023 10:50:12 GMT -5
I don't purchase non working boards in hopes to clean them and then they start working. So, the logic is good, buy boards that are working instead. Does cleaning ever fix a board? 😂 OK OK maybe if it had a old barrel battery leak acid all over the board. But then we are talking about what? 386 and older hardware ?
I've tried recovering several boards by the wash method. It's not worked one time for me ever. Not once. Id say 9 of 10 boards I killed was a VRM package that popped. Maybe a couple rtc chips wiped out from OC. None to ever be recovered without replacement parts on any one particular circuit. Its always been easier to dump it in the gutter and go buy another. BUT I will give an E for effort, getting boards for 10 dollars or less and attempt to repair. But if save 10 dollars 10 times, he could get a running board and cpu, maybe ram too depending on the platform for 100 bucks.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Aug 15, 2023 19:25:59 GMT -5
Does cleaning ever fix a board? 😂 OK OK maybe if it had a old barrel battery leak acid all over the board. But then we are talking about what? 386 and older hardware ?
I've tried recovering several boards by the wash method. It's not worked one time for me ever. Not once. Id say 9 of 10 boards I killed was a VRM package that popped. Maybe a couple rtc chips wiped out from OC. None to ever be recovered without replacement parts on any one particular circuit. Its always been easier to dump it in the gutter and go buy another. BUT I will give an E for effort, getting boards for 10 dollars or less and attempt to repair. But if save 10 dollars 10 times, he could get a running board and cpu, maybe ram too depending on the platform for 100 bucks. Again i cherry pick my boards I deliberately avoid any ones with any physical damage with the exception of bent/snapped pins (if its just redundant pins that are ruined), no fucking shit you cant wash a board that clearly needs components to be replaced especially blown vrms The ones that i buy that dont post are usually always ones that are long unused and have dirtied up and died after a few months of unuse, or fixable physical damage like bent pins i heavily prefer ones that can already post as i did with a giga h61m i got for 3$ (its a steal and after 9 hours p95 largeffts no freezing issues as mentioned in the listing) as those generally only need a clean or they just outright work and have no issues If a board just died after months of unuse you dunk it in water and it should work again, component damage haha no And by rtc chips you mean those thingys that allow you to save bios settings after mobo has been shutoff? Cause ive had a few perfectly working boards but the stupid cmos doesnt work no matter what battery i have just keeps resetting bios after shutoff and theres also my p7h55mlx that wont run properly and shuts off mid way through post when using powerbutton but perfectly operable with jumped psu, and if cmos battery is inserted once i reset the board or it resets when i change bios settings or im turning it on after shutting it off it gets stuck on 00 but without cmos battery it continues to post as normal, seems like the rtc chip is the kinda long looking sop smd right beside the cmos battery holder, if replacing that chip will fix it sure ill give it a shot since that board is kinda worthless in its current state aside from personal use
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 15, 2023 19:53:50 GMT -5
RTC is the bios chip. They do go bad. Some can be replaced. Sometimes the replacement won't run the board due to ID flash errors or other component shorted, sometimes a cmos battery that shorted can take out the rtc chip.
But looking at a motherboard without schematics and a very good knowledge base of electrical components will make diag and repair a nightmare guessing game.
NB chips can go bad. SB chips can go bad.
Sure sometimes dust or debri in ram slots or cpu sockets can cause an issue, but these are generally visible issues.
Guess and dunk seems to be your first approach. And if it works, that's great. Good for you!
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 16, 2023 1:44:13 GMT -5
RTC stands for Real Time Clock
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Aug 16, 2023 9:15:48 GMT -5
RTC is the bios chip. They do go bad. Some can be replaced. Sometimes the replacement won't run the board due to ID flash errors or other component shorted, sometimes a cmos battery that shorted can take out the rtc chip. But looking at a motherboard without schematics and a very good knowledge base of electrical components will make diag and repair a nightmare guessing game. NB chips can go bad. SB chips can go bad. Sure sometimes dust or debri in ram slots or cpu sockets can cause an issue, but these are generally visible issues. Guess and dunk seems to be your first approach. And if it works, that's great. Good for you! I have encountered bad bios chips before, just means that if you manage to flash em they just dont work and the mobo just 00, happened on a half working p5q pro with a ruined top pcie slot and a half ruined bottom slot thatd only post like half the time and the other half is just stuck on 80 code, swapped bios chip and it can post again (mx25l8005) Then theres also just the bios chip straight up refusing to flash and failing in the middle of a flash, esmt bios chip, shuttle x58 board that i was trying to get westmere xeons working but turns out that it just refuses to run westmere cpus no matter the bios and i tried a p6t deluxe v2 and foxconn renaissance bios, just swapped it with another spare mx25l8005 Both boards have been sold, i do have some spare 2mb and 4mb chips so ill give swapping chips a shot, kinda doubt its the bios chip as it flashes with no issue but who knows, and if it isnt the bios chip im quite curious as to whats causing this goofy cmos defect on my p7h55mlx Theres also just boards that work perfectly fine but cmos doesnt work no matter the battery so when i come across another board like that ill problably try swapping the cmos battery holder and see if that helps As for northbridges not sure, the ones i know are bad are visibly damaged and have a corner chipped off, got a potentially working p43 neo that needs it swapped as it does indeed seem to run through post like normal till it walls at some code cause nb is chipped. Maybe that second p43 neo might have a ruined nb/sb since that just 00 with all leds but irdy off iirc but no idea on that one, probs not worth the trouble to fix but good for studying Southbridges i have encountered what seems to be a shorted one on a giga g31m board, 00 no post attempt but southbridge gets insanely hot, otherwise dont think ive seen any other instances of nuked southbridges Definitely got quite a few mobos in my collection aka mobo graveyard (theres like 15 ish of em now) that have downright strange issues and generally the ones with really weird issues are probs not worth fixing with the exception of broken socket/nb/sb since those just need a rework station and are very obvious to spot if they are broken, stencil will be a pain but ill figure out how to get em made, closest lead i got is desoldering all the stuff i want stencils for and getting the bga patterns scanned so they can be 3d printed out of metal though i dont think ill dive much deeper into repair since most of the money will problably come from building pcs once i get over the hurdle of getting enough starting money to finish this build or build another if this thingy that dont wanna sell still dont wanna sell, but hey i guess i can say i do this for fun when taking a half gamble on broken stuff to fix stops being my main source of money, and besides i kinda wanna screw around with swapping chipsets, maybe solder a g/q 33/35 on that giga g31m, and its nice to have some repair capabilities if i find a rare broken board or a board thats just stupid expensive in working condition
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 16, 2023 12:21:05 GMT -5
RTC stands for Real Time Clock This chip is separate from bios chip but runs on the same power circuit, in example, the cmos battery?
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 16, 2023 18:39:28 GMT -5
Yes thats right and when you clear cmos it resets the clock. On some top end boards you can reset the cmos without resetting the clock.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 16, 2023 19:29:10 GMT -5
Yes thats right and when you clear cmos it resets the clock. On some top end boards you can reset the cmos without resetting the clock. For some reason I had thought on modern boards the rtc is part of bios, uefi bios in particular. Thank you for helping clarify that.
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Aug 22, 2023 4:56:54 GMT -5
RTC stands for Real Time Clock This chip is separate from bios chip but runs on the same power circuit, in example, the cmos battery? Curious as to what they look like, as long as its an smd should be a pretty simple fix with just a hot air tool or 2 soldering irons
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 22, 2023 10:45:39 GMT -5
This chip is separate from bios chip but runs on the same power circuit, in example, the cmos battery? Curious as to what they look like, as long as its an smd should be a pretty simple fix with just a hot air tool or 2 soldering irons Well it's about the diagnostics first. You know follow the beep codes, what's the trouble shooting on that circuit. I'm not entirely sure. I was trying to throw out examples for a circuit.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 22, 2023 18:15:23 GMT -5
If CMOS wont hold without power its not the battery it is usually the double ended diode that the battery is connected to. One input of the diode is connected to the 5v standby the other input is connected to the battery. Thats a fairly common failure I have a EP45T-extreme here that the diode has to be replaced I have diodes just to lazy to do it till I want to use the board.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 22, 2023 20:28:50 GMT -5
Here is the circuit as shown by gigabyte for EP45 a lot of boards work the same its the double ended diode D1 that fails its a SOT23 so its 2x3mm in size with 3 terminals get your good soldering gear out.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Aug 23, 2023 0:45:00 GMT -5
That's awesome Mac's! Wonder how many boards I've had that this was the exact issue with. Probably a few. Thanks for sharing this schematic.
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Post by austin86 on Aug 23, 2023 9:08:32 GMT -5
Here is the circuit as shown by gigabyte for EP45 a lot of boards work the same its the double ended diode D1 that fails its a SOT23 so its 2x3mm in size with 3 terminals get your good soldering gear out. I'm going to have to save that!
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Aug 25, 2023 11:28:47 GMT -5
Here is the circuit as shown by gigabyte for EP45 a lot of boards work the same its the double ended diode D1 that fails its a SOT23 so its 2x3mm in size with 3 terminals get your good soldering gear out. Just a damn diode that just randomly fails huh I wonder how youll be able to tell the diode aside from other 3 pronged tiny smds Kinda doubt my p7h55mlx has a busted diode cause if i put a cmos battery in the battery holder it refuses to post and gets stuck on a random code whenever it shuts off or restarts which remains true even with diff bioses since ofc ive flashed the thing to some asrock bioses and even a p7p55d-e premium which it somehow managed to get to the splash screen on a one off occurance, so im pretty sure cmos battery thingy is fine but maybe theres a diff part of the circuit or the rtc chip itself thats fucked but oh well might aswell give it a shot since the boards essentially worthless aside from personal use Wonder how youd solder such a tiny component, like can i just use a cheap iron and put a buncha solder and flux on it to detach it or do i need a heatgun? Currently im looking to buy a couple cheap irons to reflash and solder my giga x58a ud3r bios chip so itd be nice to be able to use cheap irons or a cheap 10$ heatgun till i get the money to buy some proper solder equipment when i start actually trying to understand electronics and do some voltmodding shenanigans or whatever other stuff i can do with electronics (particularly interested in making an alarm that shocks me awake so no more being late to school)
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Aug 25, 2023 17:37:42 GMT -5
Use a boardview to actually find it on the board look its probably not the diode from what you just said it sounds like something is very unstable. I had a board that was doing that the other day boot once then wont reboot have to clear cmos to get it to reboot my answer was to pull out the Hypers and put PSC in fixed in a instant
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Post by somerandomtechyboi on Sept 4, 2023 21:59:43 GMT -5
Use a boardview to actually find it on the board look its probably not the diode from what you just said it sounds like something is very unstable. I had a board that was doing that the other day boot once then wont reboot have to clear cmos to get it to reboot my answer was to pull out the Hypers and put PSC in fixed in a instant Nope not instability Using diff rams doesnt help, got my 1gbit samsung f die still same issue, some china ass rebranded 4gb stick same thing Also this board really hates ram so most of the time itll just get stuck on 16 till i can boot it with my psc, then when i wanna change rams i have to initialize em with my pscs otherwise itll 16 endlessly, dunking in water doesnt fix this either so definitely mobo issue. Still usable tho so probs gonna turn it into a cheap server or gaming thingy for emulation or whatever you use a spare pc for i do have another question that has come to mind cause i wanna see if i can hit 3000 on air with fx, maybe these green pcb pscs wont cut it but maybe a diff ic will do I have 3 considerations which would be samsung 2gbit d die, hynix 2gbit cfr, and hynix 4gbit mfr (obviously gonna include the ic famous for high clocks), i know 4gbit mfr will do 3000+ with relative ease but im curious about that samsung 2gbit d die and hynix 2gbit cfr mainly for actually good performance at those 3000+ speeds cause mfr and all other 4gbit ics have abysmal trfc capabilities
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