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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 15, 2018 22:30:21 GMT -5
The yale trucks are hard to find parts for outside the dealer. The dealer charges arms and legs for stupid should be cheap parts. We also have toyota lifts which use the same motors and the cars do so getting parts right from the auto store for any motor related parts.
Tractors where super easy. All the new stuff electronic with after treatment requires a computer for diagnostics. And most of the problems are with after treatment. I've done some work on equipment and it really depends on what kind of equipment if I'm going to enjoy it and the type of repair it may need.
I'll be honest though. My passion is welding and fabrication.
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Post by stormchaser on Jun 16, 2018 11:53:01 GMT -5
Jah, when diffs go they do tend to lead to some of the worst carnage. Especially if you have a FWD transaxle, in the case of the Taurus SHO it usually grenades and takes the whole transmission with it.
Have you thought about a ford 9" as a replacement? I just scanned the thread I didn't read all of the replies. Seems to be a well built diff that can hold a good deal of torque.
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Post by Bones on Jun 16, 2018 13:12:46 GMT -5
If anything can hold up "As Is" it would be a 9' inch. All you'd have to watch for is whether it has the small or large cup U-joint yoke. That's easily fixed but it's preferable to find one with it already.
Yeah Shrimpy, I too know about the insane price differences between getting it from as an example, Yale vs a parts store. Some things can't be bought from the parts store but whenever possible that's what I'd do. I had to deal with a customer once that went off bigtime over it towards me when he heard the price quote... And can't say I could have blamed them.
The shop wanted over $300 for a water pump that was about $50 at the parts store and yes, the one from the parts store was identical.
All I can say is remember the service guy doesn't get to set prices on stuff, at least I never had that kind of authority.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 16, 2018 17:30:44 GMT -5
@storm - It WAS a posi locker with a 4:10 ring and pinion ratio. I blew it up. Springs where laying in the bottom of the diff. It was close to home so minimal damage was done. I purchased an E-bay diff and knew it was wrong as soon as I opened the box. It was a standard series 3. Which is fine I'll keep it for the other trucks, but doesn't fit mine. I need a series 1. Which are getting harder to find as they are sought after for older hot rods. So I wound up welding the spider gears to the differential carrier and back on the road again. (In short) Bones, prices for yale are crazy. We are fazing them out right now. Think we only have 2 left and the rest are Toyotas. I know the service guy doesn't make the price. The bill also doesn't come from my pocket, so I don't really care so much for that issue.
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Post by Bones on Jun 16, 2018 17:44:16 GMT -5
Bones , prices for yale are crazy. We are fazing them out right now. Think we only have 2 left and the rest are Toyotas. I know the service guy doesn't make the price. The bill also doesn't come from my pocket, so I don't really care so much for that issue. I know, Toyota's are good but the way they're designed sometimes makes them a royal PITA to work with. With most of them you have to pull the counterweight just to swap radiators as an example and even if not a rad then something like a bottom hose to it can be a pain too - And don't get me started on the Mitsubitchies with their timing belts - The most dumbassed thing they could have done was to shove an engine with a timing belt in one. Them along with Caterpillar and a few others do it too. It may not be true today, I dunno because I've been out of that game for awhle now but I can say every Nissan that was back in my day of working on them had timing chains period. No they're not perfect either but as far as I'm concerned (Based on what I ran into then) they are the best over all in terms of working on them, reliability and such. The older Clarks were good but a pain to work on - However they were reliable enough it wasn't too bad..... As far as how they are now, I can't say because I don't know if Clark is even around anymore as a company, probrably bought out by now since Clark when I worked for the local dealer was struggling. Clark, Baker, Lisle, Shaffe, Windham, Nissan, Yale, Toyota, Prime Mover, Bendi, Crown (Love those in a good way)... I mean you name it I've probrably had a hand on it before, from the 4 cylinder jobs commonly seen to the big Cummings 6 cylinder diesel lifts, I've messed with them all it seems but I know that's not all of them by any means. As for a Raymond electric.... Damn a Raymond. U know what I mean.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jun 16, 2018 18:07:44 GMT -5
Well if I ever get into a jam, I know who to call.
The last counter weight we pulled off was with another forklift. It was pretty straight forward and easy.
I've done some electrical, tune ups, have replaced pumps and pulleys, radiators too. It's just not my cup of tea.
The guys that drive them are hard on them lift trucks Rod. Gas to the floor and brake to the floor. It's like a race course on the dock lol.
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Post by Bones on Jun 16, 2018 18:26:22 GMT -5
Well if I ever get into a jam, I know who to call. The last counter weight we pulled off was with another forklift. It was pretty straight forward and easy. I've done some electrical, tune ups, have replaced pumps and pulleys, radiators too. It's just not my cup of tea. The guys that drive them are hard on them lift trucks Rod. Gas to the floor and brake to the floor. It's like a race course on the dock lol. That's the norm - Pedal to the metal to the point some guys don't even lift off the gas when going from foward to reverse. Believe me - I've seen it and then some.
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Post by flmatter on Jul 15, 2018 1:10:30 GMT -5
So I sorta skimmed over the thread. What is your set up in the camino? Nice looking ride btw. I have blown up quite a few diff's in the past, at least yours was the spiders. Had to sell my 72 cutlass to move to Alaska 6 years ago. Killed me to do it. Looking for another project here though
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Jul 15, 2018 11:01:51 GMT -5
So I sorta skimmed over the thread. What is your set up in the camino? Nice looking ride btw. I have blown up quite a few diff's in the past, at least yours was the spiders. Had to sell my 72 cutlass to move to Alaska 6 years ago. Killed me to do it. Looking for another project here though Thanks, It's a 350 chevy small block with 650 Holly Carb, edelbrock intake. L98 vet heads with Chrome Headers. TH350 transmission turning over a 4:10 welded rear end. Tires are FireStone Indy 500 FireHawk series (no longer in production) and it goes pretty good. Have an Electric Fan to replace the sports fan bolted on the water pump here. Was kind of looking at it today, maybe install it soon. I won't feel much difference, but it may run cooler. Sorry you had to sell that 72 Cutlass. nice Cars. My Buddy has 2 for sale. A 70 and a 75. Personally I like the body style of that 75 late model. Now If I where in Alaska, I'd just have to get a Square body K5 Blazer or suburban. Late 70's early 80's. So much potential. Drop it or lift it. Any dang motor from GM will bolt right up. Figure with all the land up there, would have to get OFF the Road occasionally
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Post by eidairman1 on Jul 17, 2018 0:49:33 GMT -5
So I sorta skimmed over the thread. What is your set up in the camino? Nice looking ride btw. I have blown up quite a few diff's in the past, at least yours was the spiders. Had to sell my 72 cutlass to move to Alaska 6 years ago. Killed me to do it. Looking for another project here though Nice, i finally just found out what diff I have on my truck it is a 4.10 setup due to option code.
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Post by flmatter on Jul 17, 2018 20:07:22 GMT -5
I have access to Ford GM and Dodge if any one needs a vin looked up for build codes or whatever. I think it only goes back to 1996 maybe 1989 maybe. 4.10's are nice
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Post by eidairman1 on Aug 8, 2018 21:35:58 GMT -5
I have access to Ford GM and Dodge if any one needs a vin looked up for build codes or whatever. I think it only goes back to 1996 maybe 1989 maybe. 4.10's are nice My Option code on my Truck is the 4.10, I have a Bowtie classic 2007(GMT800). bones the 12/14bolt are strong. Hobbyists take 4.10s for performance even though they are great for towing applications. 10 bolts can be built up even.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Oct 24, 2018 19:15:03 GMT -5
What does it mean when the vacuum secondary dumps on the intake manifold and not into the carb? Well I guess rebuild time. Looks like I blew up the diaphragm.
Geh the guy removed the collar with the number stamping. I have to try and find a kit by eye? fml.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Oct 24, 2018 20:58:38 GMT -5
Should be stamped on the side also.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Oct 24, 2018 21:19:09 GMT -5
Thought only 2 barrel and OEM carbs had the stamping on the side... I didn't see anything to represent the serial on the side. I'll take a closer look tomorrow.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Oct 25, 2018 23:01:35 GMT -5
OK I found the serial number. LIST-1850-4 Found the listing here. documents.holley.com/techlibrary_carb_numerical_listing.pdfIt's 600 CFM and is model 4160. Now I can order a proper kit and throttle plate gasket set also. But the date stamp states 2412. I cannot decipher it. I've searched. I figure it's around the same age as the car, but the motor was probably pulled from a corvette.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Oct 26, 2018 17:37:25 GMT -5
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Oct 26, 2018 17:38:41 GMT -5
Doesn't matter. All you need is a 4160 kit. It'll come with all the variations. You just use what you need. You da man Scotty.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Oct 26, 2018 17:39:31 GMT -5
Added a link for you too.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Oct 27, 2018 9:19:56 GMT -5
Thank you very much. I will be ordering this later in the afternoon once I get a chance.
It's been a good while since I've rebuilt a 4 barrel carb. Last one I rebuilt was on a 75' SAAB 95 single barrel for the owner of our company. The Operations manager would ether start that poor motor. When I was done, it starts ether and chokeless every time. Full tune up and everything, dang car runs like new.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Mar 10, 2019 11:23:51 GMT -5
Ok ordered this carb kit. Will arrive the 15th. Ill try and pull the carb between now and then. Im excited to rebuild the carb. Spring is on the way and Im ready to go for a cruise
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Post by Mr.Scott on Mar 10, 2019 11:25:50 GMT -5
Indeed. Seems like we're turning the corner on winter.
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Post by zila1 on Mar 10, 2019 12:56:23 GMT -5
I'm getting excited too. Gonna start getting the old Buick ready to pull out of the garage. May have to put a new steering rack in her this year. Original is going into it's 26th year and starting to lose pressure. Hisses when trying to go end to end and doesn't always make it. I will send it in for the new rack.......ain't gonna do that flat backing on the garage floor. I'm too old for that.
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Post by Bones on Mar 10, 2019 14:29:17 GMT -5
Yeah, when she gets old and her rack starts hissing it's time for a divorce for your own safety.
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Post by zila1 on Mar 10, 2019 16:32:11 GMT -5
Yeah, when she gets old and her rack starts hissing it's time for a divorce for your own safety. You're so right my friend. I'm gonna send her in soon. I've noticed when it's warm out the rack makes much less noise and moves easier. She's got morning sickness on cold mornings.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Apr 6, 2019 20:44:59 GMT -5
Carb has been rebuilt. Got it fired up right at sun down Eddie. Dang fuel filter sprung a leak. The glass got a crack in it, so it's just about spraying out of it lol. Damn that was a cold winter. But I did start it three times shortly despite a little issue there I temp cured with a little tape. Did not replace the old air mixture screws yet, but I know they work. I tuned it last spring the best I could. Right now it starts choke-less once I got the floats full. Those I adjusted off the carb half way up. They where higher up when I took them apart.
You guys should have seen the gaskets. I was scraping them off, been on there so long. Original for sure. That rebuild took me a couple hours longer than I had expected it too. lol. Probably about 4 hours start to almost finished. Need to install the throttle linkages and cable.
Ah, that was good. started right up.
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Post by zila1 on Apr 6, 2019 22:19:13 GMT -5
Awesome that it started right up. Wow, the sight glass cracked. That sucks.
I got my new radiator in today. It was really nice outside. No hoses or anything yet. I'm fabricating new trans cooler lines for it first. It's gonna be nice.
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Post by Mr.Scott on Apr 7, 2019 7:39:49 GMT -5
Carb has been rebuilt. Got it fired up right at sun down Eddie. Dang fuel filter sprung a leak. The glass got a crack in it, so it's just about spraying out of it lol. Damn that was a cold winter. But I did start it three times shortly despite a little issue there I temp cured with a little tape. Did not replace the old air mixture screws yet, but I know they work. I tuned it last spring the best I could. Right now it starts choke-less once I got the floats full. Those I adjusted off the carb half way up. They where higher up when I took them apart. You guys should have seen the gaskets. I was scraping them off, been on there so long. Original for sure. That rebuild took me a couple hours longer than I had expected it too. lol. Probably about 4 hours start to almost finished. Need to install the throttle linkages and cable. Ah, that was good. started right up. Nice. Set the floats while it's running. Take out the sight plugs and adjust the nut and lock screw on the top of the bowl until gas just trickles out the sight plug, then lock it back down.
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Apr 7, 2019 8:24:26 GMT -5
Gotcha. Thanks for the tip. It had 66 jets. Thats standard for a 600 right?
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Post by Mr.Scott on Apr 7, 2019 8:36:13 GMT -5
It's actually a click fat. 65 was the norm. You're better off being that the car has headers.
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