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Post by ShrimpBrime on Mar 25, 2020 17:59:18 GMT -5
How long do you have to heat with the gun at 970c before the socket removes easily? 30 seconds or so? If even that?
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Post by Bones on Mar 26, 2020 1:53:25 GMT -5
Try at least 3-4 minutes. It's due to the really long tube dissapating the heat and also because the source is so far away from the work. If I reduced the length even by 6 inches it would have an effect of a little more airflow and more heat getting to it faster.
I'll need to pop into Lowes one day and see if there isn't something shorter yet useable. Also bear in mind this was a heatgun from Harbor Freight and I seriously doubt it's getting THAT hot but does get hot enough to do the job. One good thing about the tube though is it does focus the heat but you don't have a hurricane of air coming out with it, that's useful in many situations.
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Post by Bones on Mar 30, 2020 5:57:54 GMT -5
Got the socket off and man, it took some time and heat to get it loose and away from the board! I thought I was going to burn it up just trying but it finally let go and I was able to lift the socket away. I even partially melted the heatgun's collar but the gun itself is fine.
Heated the thing for almost 10 minutes, that's beyond excessive but that's what it took and I believe the old clearcoat had something to do with it but.... It's off and the board is ready for the next step.
My only concern is the pads, I don't see any signs of them coming up or any traces so that's good at least. Could be a pad or two came up but I'll proceed with it anyway - You never know.
Will do the cleanup of the left over solder, check the pads once more, give it a good wipe down with acetone and go from there.
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Post by Bones on Apr 1, 2020 19:07:55 GMT -5
Setting up the IR station's soldering function, the soldering station's temps apparently can't go high enough, topping out at 480f. It really doesn't melt the solder at all and seems to be "Burning" the flux instead, leaving what looks like a brown spot where I had the braid. The IR's temps go up to 400c and that's probrably what I need to use with the cleanup, starting off with 350c and going from there.
Will get on that tomorrow evening and see how it does.
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Post by Bones on Apr 2, 2020 18:48:04 GMT -5
Macsbeach98Having a bit of trouble with the solder not wanting to melt with my braid. I've applied flux to it, have the iron set at 350c but it's acting like it won't melt, instead causing the braid to "Stick". More heat could be the answer but not wanting to fry the pads in the process or pull any up. I've yet to warm the board from the bottom with the pre-heater and can do that if it would make a difference, also I'm starting to think I need one of those desoldering squeegie tools to push it off to the side instead. Thoughts?
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 2, 2020 18:56:40 GMT -5
Try using leaded solder and just use the iron and run it over the pads so it mixes with the unleaded solder also heating the board is a good idea.
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Post by Bones on Apr 2, 2020 19:04:35 GMT -5
Like rolling a ball of it around, letting the solder ball absorb the old solder right? I can do that.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 2, 2020 20:12:12 GMT -5
Yep thats it dont be worried to use plenty.
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Post by Bones on Apr 2, 2020 21:20:02 GMT -5
Will do!
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 2, 2020 22:12:57 GMT -5
What tip have you got on the iron Rodney?
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Post by Bones on Apr 3, 2020 2:10:14 GMT -5
Have a tip that's angled flat to one side on it's bottom/tip. I know a regular conical tip won't do for all that.
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Post by Vinster on Apr 3, 2020 8:46:26 GMT -5
a wedge or chisel tip works great for that.
Vin
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Post by Bones on Apr 3, 2020 12:20:41 GMT -5
What is circled in red is the tip I've got, I'm not 100% that's the actual size of it though. Could be like the one just to it's left.
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Post by Vinster on Apr 3, 2020 16:08:27 GMT -5
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Post by Bones on Apr 3, 2020 16:58:26 GMT -5
The one I have is the larger of the two above, it's been doing good so far. I'm getting decent results from doing the solder ball on a junk board, it does make most of it let go but still leave a little behind. However with that, the solder wick is now working too and getting it up off the pads after the excess is gone. I guess a combination of the ball and wick is the way to go with this.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 3, 2020 21:22:50 GMT -5
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Post by Vinster on Apr 4, 2020 0:51:44 GMT -5
What Iron do you use with that controller?
Vin
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Post by Bones on Apr 4, 2020 4:26:18 GMT -5
May have to wait then, ATM I'm short on funds to get one of those. If I can find a tip that works with the setup I have now that would be the way to go if possible. The work I've done so far on the junk board has gone well but need to get it right the first time - That being the thing.
I'll have to try it a few more times on other junk boards and see how well I do. So far I haven't had a problem with keeping the tip on the braid and it's been getting the trace amounts of solder thats left off the board without issue.
I'll finish that and the ne take a good pic so you can see how I did with it.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 4, 2020 5:53:13 GMT -5
Vin scroll down it comes with the iron for T12 tips
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Post by Vinster on Apr 4, 2020 10:34:33 GMT -5
May have to wait then, ATM I'm short on funds to get one of those. If I can find a tip that works with the setup I have now that would be the way to go if possible. The work I've done so far on the junk board has gone well but need to get it right the first time - That being the thing.
I'll have to try it a few more times on other junk boards and see how well I do. So far I haven't had a problem with keeping the tip on the braid and it's been getting the trace amounts of solder thats left off the board without issue.
I'll finish that and the ne take a good pic so you can see how I did with it.
thing is, the first few times you'll be nervous as hell and even with patience/experience and taking it slow you can still mess up a board.
Vin
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Post by Vinster on Apr 4, 2020 10:39:19 GMT -5
Vin scroll down it comes with the iron for T12 tips Doh... I looked at the main and not the whole thing..
thanks Mac
thought the probe they show is not the one plugged in.. ones a clamped DIN and they other is a nutted one... wonder what you get?
Vin
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Post by ShrimpBrime on Apr 4, 2020 12:31:15 GMT -5
One of you guys should make a video of socket removal. It would be nice to watch the work in action!!
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Post by Bones on Apr 4, 2020 13:30:13 GMT -5
I was doing that earlier but due to the socket on the board I was working on being stubborn about coming off I had to stop and concentrate on getting it done.
I've got a few other boards I can do that with.
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Post by Vinster on Apr 4, 2020 14:27:12 GMT -5
One of you guys should make a video of socket removal. It would be nice to watch the work in action!! I'm still working on getting the right gear. you don't ever want to see the hillbilly shit I've done...
Vin
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Post by Bones on Apr 4, 2020 15:15:57 GMT -5
I've done my share of it too.
I did a vid of how it's done and the shorter tube worked out great. Less heat needed to get the socket up to the right temp for removal.
I'll have to get that ready and post it up for Shrimpy.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 4, 2020 20:41:20 GMT -5
One of you guys should make a video of socket removal. It would be nice to watch the work in action!! I'm still working on getting the right gear. you don't ever want to see the hillbilly shit I've done...
Vin
I would like to see it Vin. Here is my machine Jon. I will try to do one on a 980Ti Lightning
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Post by Vinster on Apr 4, 2020 20:55:04 GMT -5
I guess I should re-phase.. I'm too embarrassed in what I've done to do some of this work. I have a good solder station, I do like the new styles better as I think they just heat better. but I've used a few 1800W head guns to do the work of that station you just posted.. I've burned a few boards in my trials. the end result was not at all pretty but did the trick...
a few of the boards got dis-coloured in the process as well.. but they were for me anyway...
Vin
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Post by Bones on Apr 4, 2020 22:16:50 GMT -5
I'm still working on getting the right gear. you don't ever want to see the hillbilly shit I've done...
Vin
I would like to see it Vin. Here is my machine Jon. I will try to do one on a 980Ti Lightning That station is MUCH better than the one I have.
I did look at those once when I was researching prices of these and the cost was almost 4 times that of the one I've got now.
Good thing about it was to get mine working for socket removal didn't cost much over what I paid for it - Throw in the cost of a cheap heatgun with a piece of steel tubing over what I paid and it works.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 5, 2020 8:23:07 GMT -5
Here is a pic of my iron its rated for 480c 75 watt what the t12 tips are rated for I have got a T12 1402 and 1403. And a pic of the project the chip off the reference card is going on the lightning you can see the blowout in the lightning chip thats what happens when you enable the LN2 bios and use afterburner extreme without LN2. I have also included the reball stencil in the pic they are .5mm solder balls. In a couple of days when I am ready I will do a video of it I am only working at night between 9 and 12pm at the moment.
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Post by Bones on Apr 5, 2020 22:32:16 GMT -5
Looks like I have ran into trouble with it (Expected). Noted some pads had lifted.
The only good thing is there is at least a tiny bit of each left in place, presumably to the trace and I also noticed what looks like a couple of traces that got uncovered - Not ripped, just that the coating on the board got removed, exposing them. That would have a risk of cross-connecting these pads and I'll have to come up with a way to stop the solder from doing that. I did expect something like this to happen and as a said, if the board is good for anything it's to learn how and if it's possible to doctor these areas and make it work anyway I'll give it a shot. Overall the socket itself doesn't look bad and this area was where the clear had seeped in, causing all the trouble. Alot of what I saw was due to the paper towel used for lightly wiping the area with acetone to clean and inspect the socket area, that can be taken care of easily. I hate lead-free solder, you can't work with it as well as the leaded version by any means. Didn't have any of this with the older sockets I removed and worked.
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