Eric is doing his thing. He is lucky that rotor didn't take him out. I've seen rotors crack in half and blow in guys faces while doing exactly as Eric is doing. I anti-seize everything and I hate drums and rotors with the retaining screws in them. Stupid design.
That's like every single car and truck that comes into the shop up here, though most of the time they only need to come off when doing a set of rotors & pads. And when they're stuck, always, always put a wheel nut on a few threads before you go and do it so it doesn't do what it did in that video.
A puller like that is the wrong tool for the job anyway, a sizable hammer or sledge is much safer. Otherwise a large pry bar works to if you need to save the rotor.
Last Edit: Feb 24, 2019 16:54:48 GMT -5 by dr4g00n
When they are rusted on like that they just don't want to come off with a pry bar or hammer or torches. It's as if they are welded in place sometimes. My next door neighbor had one that would not come off even with that tool. They removed the entire knuckle assembly and couldn't get it off. So they had to order up everything for both sides. When that road salt hits em all bets are off. When you bring a new car home, take it all apart and anti-seize everything right away. What a pain it can be to live in the rust belt. Cars just get ruined.
I've dealt with that MANY times over - In fact that rotor (To me) came off rather easy. Then again I've also worked on equipment in the field too along with some of the larger road vehicles in my time.
The rotor popping off reminds me of how to remove tires from a big truck with split rims, those being BAD about jumping off and taking someone out.
Break the lugnuts loose, then back them off only a little from being up against the rim itself, stand off to the side of it and wail away with a big hammer on the tire if it's still holding air, the rim if not. When the tire "Jumps" out at you it's broken loose and can be safely dealt with at that point.
austin86: I agree, the seller must be smoking something. I say a DFI nf2 ultra is 100$ max if its mint and boxed.
Oct 2, 2023 8:23:06 GMT -5
Bones: Same here, my KT400 wasn't nearly that expensive and it's in the box with all the stuff, in excellent condition too.
Sept 30, 2023 17:27:45 GMT -5
antinomy: It's overpriced even if it was NF2. But for KT400, I got mine like $5-10 years ago.
Sept 30, 2023 3:54:09 GMT -5
austin86: Someone is selling a open box DFI lanparty 875p board on ebay ebay.us/nFs7FT and one way over priced 462 lanparty board lol ebay.us/5glulB
Sept 25, 2023 12:25:47 GMT -5
austin86: antinomy Ram and CPU are good, the problem I keep running into is the hdd not being accessible. I was able to work around this by booting from a floppy and I can run Pcplayer and Speedsys within dos so I'm guessing the system is stableish.
Sept 25, 2023 8:21:32 GMT -5
antinomy: I think you should start a topic on this one. It could be several reasons you need to check - memory, Vio, badly clocking CPU.
Sept 20, 2023 18:18:11 GMT -5
austin86: Stuck in the low/mid 170s and the system is stablish when booted of a floppy to about 180. IDK maybe I need to just toss deice/ln2 at it.
Sept 18, 2023 13:50:45 GMT -5
austin86: Does anyone know of a ISA VGA/IDE card? trying to hit a record on FSB with 440bx and I keep getting held back by the on board IDE, I tried a ide to sada adapter and I got further but not by much.
Sept 18, 2023 13:49:43 GMT -5
antinomy: What test? It could be because of AGESA version or maybe some security patches for the CPU.
Sept 14, 2023 0:48:33 GMT -5
george: And it was not a temp issue as far I could see.
Sept 13, 2023 18:44:43 GMT -5
george: wth? Updated to latest BIOS version on the A520, did a few bench with cpu-z after that, hmm, results lowered, anyhow got the Ram settled ok. However, increased the CPU some 5MHz, bench result went down? Perhaps forgot some settings I had.(This W10)
Sept 13, 2023 18:43:16 GMT -5