Post by Macsbeach98 on Oct 22, 2017 22:22:50 GMT -5
Is the CPU a known good worker the first led to go out is CPU. Or it could be a bios problem. My first check would probably be to see if the CPU is getting Vcore measure from where one of the three chokes goes into the board to ground it doesnt matter which side of the choke you measure from you are only checking for voltage.
Post by ShrimpBrime on Oct 22, 2017 22:42:02 GMT -5
I tried multiple processors.
Bios problem.... well the board acts the same with or without the bios chip installed.
Don't have my good multimeter here at home....
After a few hours I gave up.
SO, I was thinking of sending it to Scott or Rod to see if either one of them can give me a hand. It does need a couple of caps, however Scott seemed pretty hopeful it would post but V-core would be all over the place which could be the problem. Chipset gets warm, so that has power. DRAM power LED is solid, so that seems ok. Other than that, not a good sign...
Good idea. Rods will go over that sucker with a fine toothed comb. He will give her a full physical and check back. He has so much fun doing that too.
Edit: Everyone of those I've seen so far either needed some serious recapping or needed hot flash due to corrupt bios. Those suckers get pushed real hard usually by inexperienced folks that only know brute force clocking.
Post by ShrimpBrime on Oct 23, 2017 13:25:05 GMT -5
Thanks Zilla. Rod, send me your addy. Probably send this weekend or by the weekend. I'll send you cash for the return shipping as well. Aaand maybe a little something extra for your time.
Yes Zilla, I usually brute force most hardware lol. But this, if gets working again may be no different. I've never had a decent board for sA and nothing but trouble on the platform because of it.
No doubt in my mind the bios needs recovery.
Rod, if you need CPUs and memory or the VGA card to go along with it, that's no problem. Scotty sent me 2 sets of ram and a few processors as well. That way you don't have to worry about frying any of your own hardwares.
I've got several crappy CPUs for testing including some K stepping chips..... K always stood for Krap with these chips.
RAM isn't a prob either, again I have a few sticks suitable for testing so no risk to anything here. I'll PM you my mailing info and you can do what you need to from that point. Good thing is I have a nearly full 200 count bag of brandnew 6.3v 3300mfu caps so those won't be a prob to come up with.
Update: I replaced all 5 caps of the same type/rating around the CPU socket (6.3v - 3000uf) with new ones. Only two were bulging but didn't make sense to leave the other three in since they are just as old with the same runtime on them. Got that done and the job went well, that I can say.
However it's still showing the 4 LEDs of death.
I did see it was missing it's CMOS jumper when I tested it so set another one in and looked at the BIOS chip. It's good and flashed it with a copy of my board's BIOS since I know it isn't corrupted but no change. Symptoms so far are as described - 4 LEDS and nothing else happening.
The CPU, NB, SB and even the RAM sticks all get warm so they are getting power at least, the core of the GPU also warms up as it should and testing was done with a few different chips and sticks of RAM. Also tried it with a few AGP cards and even one PCI slot card but it's been the same thing with it regardless.
To me, chances are it's something simple but I can't find it with the usual checks and testing.
I did note someone had stuck some coolers for the MOSFETs on it and one of these has been removed, the other one is still in place and the SB chip has one too - I suspect it was ran hard at times to say the least with all that on it.
The one for the MOSFETs close to the CPU socket is still there, seems whoever stuck these on at the very least used some kind of stick'um (Glue/adhesive?) to set these in place.
If Shrimpy is OK with it I can try to remove this heatsink to check the MOSFET's under it but can't promise anything, including something won't get damaged in the removal of it but note the ones under the RAM slots had one too and it's been removed, some of the adhesive is still on these so I know they had one on them because of this.
Any thoughts guys?
I'd love to get this one working again for Shrimpy and send it back that way since it doesn't seem to be a lost cause, just an annoying one.
Post by ShrimpBrime on Mar 15, 2019 15:50:04 GMT -5
Hey Rodney, do whatever you want or need to do. It was dead when I bought it.
Remove heatsinks, new bios caps, heck stick it in the oven at 350f for 20 minutes. I dont care, prepaired for any out come. I have no feelings for the board, its not my first dead board purchase, you hold no responsibilities.
Just confirmed the Ultra B's problem is with the NB chipset not working.
Did confirm the CPU itself and the SB is getting power and at least doing something, they both get warm and with the proximity of the CPU to the NB I fired it up with the CPU fan unplugged to see if and how warm the CPU would get and to avoid any heat blowing over to the NB giving a false indication of heat coming from it.
As for the CPU it's certainly putting out some heat so for now I can rule out a CPU circuit problem.
It's possible the chipset itself could have folded, gives me yet another reason to look into either getting or making a reball station. The other Ultra B I have for parts did work when I first got it and it's problem is with the CPU circuit so it's chipset should be OK.
If possible, swap them and see what happens but that is a ways off yet in the doing - Need to get or make the equipment to go for it with first.
Post by ShrimpBrime on Mar 18, 2019 21:28:29 GMT -5
Thank you very much Rodney for helping me out and trying everything you know to get it fired up. I couldn't be more appreciative. If you get that board working with a reball on the chipset, I'll be in a happy place. At least we will finally know what dies on these boards.
I made a video of what I found and what I'll have to do in trying to fix it.
If it works that would be great but if not, this probrably explains it.
ATM I've got the donor board out and after robbing it of the needed cap I'll get that soldered on and see what goes, the traces I'll have to look over again and make sure they aren't damaged.
Even with the amount of detail the vid has over what I can see with my visor it's hard to tell if they are damaged or not but will have to try it anyway and see - It can't be any worse off regardless.
It's about to be Frankenstein-Time guys.
Replacing the cap didn't affect anything, it's still not working so..... Next step is to recheck the solder job and be sure it took, then onto the traces themselves. I'll do this tomorrow, it's kinda cool out right now and late too.
I'm trying, the AN7 board I sent should be there either tomorrow or Thursday - I know you'll like it and be sure Burn-ee gets a real workout once you do and be sure to check the extra I sent too.
Don't forget that the CMOS jumper postition is backwards with that one or it will drive you crazy if you forget about that and try to run it afer a CMOS clearing, I just remembered the code it will throw would be the dreaded 9-0 code of death.... But it's not "dead" if the jumper was left in the clear position. And of course remember about those being battery eaters, like Elvis vs a cheeseburger - Guess who wins.
Show me/us how it does for you and if you need something else let me know.
Did a followup vid in sunlight to better show what I'm facing, will get that posted later.
Post by ShrimpBrime on Mar 19, 2019 16:44:35 GMT -5
You betcha. Probably post it on the water block. See how a TEC does. try plating unplated cooling. Looking for big Mhz to even get close to ANY dang score between you and Scotty let alone the countless other people out there.
So I need to make good decisions. Do I really want to beat and kill possibly my last good Socket A setup? I will give it some go, but please forgive me If it's something I decide not to go sub zero with. My water delta right now is about 46f and it doesn't just warm up. I'll get another month around this temperature easy.
I do recall you saying something about the jumper. I won't forget, I have it right here in the forum!!!
Badass, you let me know if you need anything. anything at all.
One thing I have to forwarn you of is I didn't have a spare NB cooler to go on it so it shipped without one. The stock ones are crap, a nice, solid all-copper one is the ticket or just grab a small waterblock and add that into the loop.
zila1: Strange. I hear my dad's voice all of the time. Like he's watching over me. Sometimes I hear that strong voice of his calling me. And I hear his laughter. It sounds so real. Like he's standing right next to me.
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ShrimpBrime: Cheers to that~!
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ShrimpBrime: Thanks, I appreciate that! I only left because the pay scale was too low. They considered me as a Tech 2 last time. Which I'm beyond that and they know it. Diesel Tech and welding fabrication is my specialties.
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funsoul: That's fantastic! Good for you! Glad they're giving you what you need
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ShrimpBrime: Actually going back to a previous employer. I left on good terms, the pay was too low. This time, they are making up for it.
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funsoul: Beautiful! Hope you're off to better
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ShrimpBrime: Nice and easy re-entry. Day 1 of the last two weeks at current employer.
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Vinster: Where my parents lived they made that change also. I think it was because the storm drains were backing up and people started charging the city for upkeep on the section between the house and the city drain. with no proper demarcation they stopped
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austin86: Vinster its odd here, gutters can't go to a storm drain anymore but they can drain into the street right next to one lol. I think its more of a city property vs residents property thing, IDK all I know is the town asked us not to drain my gutters into it.
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