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Post by austin86 on Apr 9, 2022 12:44:14 GMT -5
Part 17: Window XP installed. Ok so this build finally has an OS installed. And wow is it snappy. It took longer to burn the XP disk image to a flash then it did to actually install windows on the system. The system boots faster then my x79 system running a striped install of 7 with 2 SSDs in raid 0.
Part 17a: Installing the apps Now for the pain staking task of installing everything. In the past I would just install the drivers, some tools, benchmarking apps and one or two demanding games. However I actually plan to keep this system so ill be installing a lot of stuff on it. Right now I’m installing drivers and the evga apps like eleet and so on.
Part 17b: more cooling needed. As I stated before the system runs on the hotter side. Wile I haven’t stressed the system yet the temps I’m seeing aren’t looking good. The CPU clocked at 3.4ghz is at 43c under a light load. The GPUs are rather toasty, 45-50c at full clocks. At 2d clocks is around 40c. I think 800rpm rad fans and 500rpm case fans were a bad idea. Luckily I don’t plain to push the system all to much as of now. I was thinking of getting 1200rpm fans for the rad but I think Ill swap cases. A corsair 800d or even a 750d would be far more appropriate.
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Post by austin86 on Apr 9, 2022 19:43:55 GMT -5
Oh and here is a photo of the system with the stata cables. 
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Post by austin86 on Apr 13, 2022 7:52:49 GMT -5
Part 18: Good lord the GPU temps. So last night I fired up 3dmark06 maxed the settings out to see what kind of temps the system had under a load and good lord the GPUs were hot as hell. It topped out at 89c. The CPU topped out of 55c. I’ll need to mod the water blocks, given how flat the blocks are I could mill groves into them without much hassle. However years ago I had black freezer blocks on a 4890 and I simply drill small dibits and sanded the surface of the block with 400grit paper witch helped a lot. However I’m thinking of getting different blocks all together.
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Post by Vinster on Apr 13, 2022 11:10:46 GMT -5
have you confirmed the flowrate is good?
Vin
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Post by austin86 on Apr 13, 2022 12:16:29 GMT -5
Part 19: Better'ish GPU blocks. So I bit the bullet and bought better blocks, well sort of. I bought 2 MCW82's and the corresponding passive plates for the vram/vrm. Wile I was at it I bought some 1/2 fittings and some blood red coolant die. The MCW82's preform rather good given their age and being just a core block, the passive plates work rather well too.I used mcw82's on a 7970 CF setup about a year ago and they worked rather well, if I recall they ran no hotter then 45c at stock setting with a little junk 250lph pump and 1/4 tubing.
I'm still on the hunt for a 800d but the idea of a 750d is getting to be rather temping.
Part 19a: Other parts I still need. Since I'm getting ether a 800d or a 750d I'll need to pick up a few things.
If I get a 750d a tube reservoir and 420mm rad. If I get a 800s a tube reservoir and maybe a 240mm rad. I think I may get some liquid metal compound for the GPUs too. Delidding the 285 would be a better thing to do but I don't want to kill the cards. Can't see the 10+ year old TIM under the IHS being all to good anymore.
have you confirmed the flowrate is good? Vin Yes the flow rate is good but the flow path is not good inside the GPU blocks. There is nothing inside the block to force the coolant over the core/die area. So most of the coolant just shoots form the inlet to the outlet. Upping the flow rate on the pump does very little to help. I could make the blocks work far better by adding a gasket/o-ring setup inside it to fores the coolant through the block, and maybe cutting/drilling groves and dibits on the block but for 125$ Id rather buy different blocks.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 13, 2022 19:32:44 GMT -5
GTX285 or any of the big ass heatspreaders Nvidea used from 8800 GTX to GTX580 are easy to remove 2 safety razors under diagonal corners and hit it with the heatgun after about 30 to 40 seconds they just pop off.
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Post by austin86 on Apr 14, 2022 6:07:48 GMT -5
GTX285 or any of the big ass heatspreaders Nvidea used from 8800 GTX to GTX580 are easy to remove 2 safety razors under diagonal corners and hit it with the heatgun after about 30 to 40 seconds they just pop off. Are they soldered or just the usual black sealant? Edit: Wait pop off as in they just fall off the card? Or you have to pull/twist them?
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 14, 2022 6:24:40 GMT -5
Wedge 2 safety razors under diagonal corners of the heat spreader and heat the heat spreader with a hot air tool max heat max air going around in circles and within 40 seconds it will pop free no pulling or twisting. Yes they are held on with black sealent not soldered. There is a big ass silicon chip under there about 3/4" square. This is the soldering station I am using at the moment any one thats similar will do dont use a paint stripping gun. 
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Post by austin86 on Apr 14, 2022 8:07:13 GMT -5
Wedge 2 safety razors under diagonal corners of the heat spreader and heat the heat spreader with a hot air tool max heat max air going around in circles and within 40 seconds it will pop free no pulling or twisting. Yes they are held on with black sealent not soldered. There is a big ass silicon chip under there about 3/4" square. This is the soldering station I am using at the moment any one thats similar will do dont use a paint stripping gun. Any SMDs under the IHS that I should be careful with? What about using an adjustable butane soldering pencil with a heat gun attachment ?
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 14, 2022 9:05:11 GMT -5
Here are a couple of pics I just removed the heatspreader off a Gig Reference GTX285. That one took about a minute and a 1/2 Your Butane torch should work Ok also you will need to attach a heatsink to the chip on the left of the card.  
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Post by austin86 on Apr 14, 2022 9:57:31 GMT -5
So I picked up a 800d. I was going to get the 750d but I found a 800d for 90$+shipping. The shipping was a good chunk of cash as the case was in the UK. But the case looks very clean and in grate shape. I hope it makes it to me that way lol. Here are a couple of pics I just removed the heatspreader off a Gig Reference GTX285. That one took about a minute and a 1/2 Your Butane torch should work Ok also you will need to attach a heatsink to the chip on the left of the card. Thanks for the info, I'll have to do this latter on. My Butane soldering pencil is very small, I used to to solder the sand grain sized SMD caps and resistors so I think it should work. How strong is the die BTW. I was thinking of going direct die cooling.
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Post by austin86 on Apr 19, 2022 8:03:37 GMT -5
Part 20: stripping blocks. OK so I started stripping the blocks last night. I used vinegar and a slash of peroxide, sulfuric acid would have worked better, a bigger anode rod would have been better too. But the vinegar is working, slowly. Mosfet block after 6 HR in the vinegar.  NB/SB block before stripping, well 2 minutes into stripping.  OK so the NB/SB block was put though the stripping bath over night and ironically most of the nickle in the coolant path was left alone and the nickle out side of the o-ring groove was stripped. I'm going find a new piece of scrap copper to use as a anode rod and finish stripping the two blocks tonight if I"m up to it.
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Post by Macsbeach98 on Apr 19, 2022 19:58:48 GMT -5
The die is strong I have mounted numerous waterblocks also a Tek 9 Fat nitrogen pot to numerous cards without the heatspreader without a problem.
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Post by austin86 on Apr 20, 2022 8:25:09 GMT -5
Part 21: blocks stripped. The vinegar I was using become diluted and turned blue and stopped pulling nickle. The nickle that's left does not want to come off, if it flakes in the loop its so small that I don't see it being a problem.  
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Post by austin86 on Apr 20, 2022 12:42:56 GMT -5
The die is strong I have mounted numerous waterblocks also a Tek 9 Fat nitrogen pot to numerous cards without the heatspreader without a problem. Well that convinces me to pop the IHS off and go direct die. Going to give it a shot latter this week.
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Post by austin86 on Apr 21, 2022 8:56:13 GMT -5
Part 22: More problems found with the bistpower blocks. So I took the bistpower blocks off the 285s last night and tossed them in the scrap bin. After I took them off I found a second problem with them. Or more so with one of them. The block had a revised model witch more or less just had different size mounting studs. The longer studs of the older revision were to long and made the block not contact the core. that would explain why one card was about 5-10c hotter. The other block with the shorter studs also had contact problems but not as bad.
Part 22a: more parts to buy, yeah I have a problem. So since I found a 800d case I'm going to swap rads and a few other parts. I'll be keeping the PC 70 for a build I will start after the x58 is done BTW. Anyway I'm looking at getting a black ice gtx 360mm, a heat killer rev3 and some gentle typhoon fans. I wanted to get a Black Ice SR2 rad but those are hard to find.
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Post by Vinster on Apr 21, 2022 9:19:29 GMT -5
why those rads specifically? I see a lot of ports.. but other than that. what makes them more desirable that other rads?
Vin
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Post by austin86 on Apr 21, 2022 9:57:45 GMT -5
why those rads specifically? I see a lot of ports.. but other than that. what makes them more desirable that other rads? Vin The SR2 and SR1 was very commonly paired with the 800Ds from what I recall. The GTX is more or less the successor to the SR2 and SR1. Should look rather good in the build too.
The alphacool monsta would be nice too, but I don't think it would fit in the 800d, at lest not with a push/pull fan setup.
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Post by austin86 on Apr 25, 2022 9:03:52 GMT -5
Part 23: Painting the MCW82 blocks. Since the blocks I bought had white tops I had to paint them black. White blocks in a 800d would not look good. I used some rather old pint/primmer rattle can I had in my garage for years so hears hopping it sticks.  Part 23a: More parts bought. Over the week end I bought the fallowing. HEATKILLER rev 3 sk1366 back plate HEATKILLER CPU Rev3.0 1366 LT block Black Ice Nemesis 360GTX 3 1150rpm Black Edition Gentle Typhoon fans 3 way 3Pin Y-Cable Silver kill Coil 2 GT200 mounting kits for the mcw82 blocks The heat killer block should look a lot better then the bistpower one. it was 40$ so why not. That and I opened a few bank accounts with a sign on bonus's so I have a few 100$ to spend on the system lol.
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Post by austin86 on Apr 26, 2022 9:49:55 GMT -5
Part 24: 3 builds at once? So I was thinking of putting the 440bx board into the lain li pc 70 case and replacing my old x79 system for a 12th gen i3/i5 setup. Then I got to thinking. The x79 system is in a case from about 96, it had a quad Ppro system in it originally.... Why not put the 440bx in that case? cram some SCSI drives in to the case and what not ? Anyway here are some photos of the old case. i.ibb.co/myCCH50/...3-AE-C44301201-D59.jpgi.ibb.co/JjQHnNt/...5-C49-C3-B91-DE0-A.jpgi.ibb.co/qJ8Z1jY/IMG-1086.jpgi.ibb.co/ZMyFmpY/2539-E070-6-F15-438-A-819-D-208-CA660-B2-D8.jpgAs you can see its massive. But if I put the 440bx system in that case Id not have a case for my new build. Why not the pc70? It would be a grate fit as I modded it with 120mm fans, given its size and the low TDP of a 12th gen i3/i5 setup I would use some rather low RPM fans. So here are my thoughts. 440BX 533mhz celly whit a good OC. TNT or TNT ultra or something like that. AWE 32 sound card. voodoo 1 win95 128mb ram water cooled. New build. B660 board 12th gen i3 or i5 16gb ddr4 nvme drive 2 hdds for bulk storage RTX 3060 or maybe keep my 980ti. air cooled.
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Post by Vinster on Apr 26, 2022 10:23:41 GMT -5
that's a tough one... you'll have to drop a system. how much would you use the 440bx system over the x79?
Vin
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Post by austin86 on Apr 26, 2022 13:47:52 GMT -5
that's a tough one... you'll have to drop a system. how much would you use the 440bx system over the x79? Vin The 440bx? not much at all, I'll have 3 systems, the 440bx, a x58 and b660. I'll be parting out the x79 and putting the 440bx in its case, selling the pc70 case, and sticking the x58 into a 800d.
Anyway I bought the parts for the b660. Picked up an i3 12100f, 16gb of ddr4 and a Fractal Design Define Mini C case and ASUS Pro B660M-C D4-CSM motherboard. For not I'm done buying stuff. Spent way to much lately lol.
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Post by austin86 on May 1, 2022 14:05:54 GMT -5
Part 25: CPU lapped and blocks installed. I lapped the 990x, I wished I had bought mores 200-600 grit paper, the lap job came out ok, but definitely could have been better.   
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Post by Vinster on May 1, 2022 21:16:02 GMT -5
Nice Progress, and looks great.
on the images moving forward, can you scale them down a bit. The images are huge when in a post.
Vin
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Post by austin86 on May 1, 2022 21:24:54 GMT -5
Nice Progress, and looks great. on the images moving forward, can you scale them down a bit. The images are huge when in a post. Vin I post photos from from my phone, not sure how to do that from the old thing.
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Post by Vinster on May 1, 2022 21:44:09 GMT -5
ah, no worries then.
Vin
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Post by austin86 on May 2, 2022 7:53:34 GMT -5
I can crop them down a bit form my phone but I don’t see anything to resize them. I’ll give that a go to r next time I take any photo. Now that I'm looking at them from a desktop I can see what you mean, I'll need to find a way to down size them.
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Post by austin86 on May 2, 2022 9:13:38 GMT -5
Part 26: Preparation for the 440bx system. OK so I started to look over all my parts for the 440bx system, Looks Like I need a GPU, isa sound card and hdds. Right now I have a 1ghz Piii and 2 256mb ram sticks. I'd like to get a 66FSB celly and a good CL2 128mb ram stick. But for now the Piii and 256 stick will do. The block I have needs a new top, its not that the top is bad, just poorly designed. Only half the block is used and it has g-1/8 fittings. Here is a photo of the block i.postimg.cc/L5MfHpN8/0-D2-B4-F9-B-282-A-4-F04-B33-E-F67036747-DAB.jpgAs you can see one fitting is in the center of the block so the flow would be kind of odd. I want to make a top that not only uses g-1/4 fittings but also has the fitting closer to the sides of the block.
EDIT: I bought a CT3670 for the 440bx system. For those that are not familiar with the CT3670 its a hybrid between the AWE32 and 64. It has the audio chips form a awe64 and the PCB and simm slots from a awe32. Its a odd card and its not 100% plug and play with all games, some need patched to use the AWE32 mode. It also has Creative CQM in place of Yamaha OPL3, so older games that use OPL will sound a bit off. Other wise its a grade way to get a AWe64 with easily up-gradable ram. Unless if I find a supper grate deal the rest of the parts for the 440bx system will have to wait as I need to save up a bit for more parts.
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Post by austin86 on May 3, 2022 8:09:30 GMT -5
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Post by Vinster on May 3, 2022 21:32:02 GMT -5
crap that thing was messed up.. was it used?
Vin
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